Refinishing Mosin: *Updated with pics*

[Guest Razz]

Edit: Stock finished. Rounds down the pipe. Fun was had by all.

Quick question, guys. Ive sanded down my M91/30 stock and stained it just where I want it. I'm ready to put a finish on it and I had planned on using Minwax Rub On Poly, as recommended by several people.

One of the main reasons that I wanted to do the complete strip and refinish was because I hate the feel of shellack. Now I'm wondering if the Minwax is going to feel the same.

Do any of you have a recommendation?

FWIW:

I was originally going to stick with the natural color of the wood but after sanding it down, I was not happy with the wood. I stained the wood with black and am very happy with the result. It's nice and dark but the grain of the wood really pops underneath.

Thanks for any and all feedback.

-Razz

Pics taken 10/29

Edited October 30, 2012 by Razz

[Caster]

I hate that mess. I like oil finishes. THey take longer and are more difficult and messy but they are the STUFF. You can get a nice matte finish from some low gloss tung oil, you can get a super shine from tru-oil if you wax it after it cures. Linseed oil takes the patience of a TIbetan Monk to do right, but it is SOOOOOOO worth it. It's also exponentially more durable as it penetrates deep into the wood.

I would suggest for you, trying it out on your handguard first. The handguard is easy to strip back down if you find you hate it as opposed to doing the whole stock.

[peejman]

I hate that mess. I like oil finishes. THey take longer and are more difficult and messy but they are the STUFF. You can get a nice matte finish from some low gloss tung oil, you can get a super shine from tru-oil if you wax it after it cures. Linseed oil takes the patience of a TIbetan Monk to do right, but it is SOOOOOOO worth it. It's also exponentially more durable as it penetrates deep into the wood.

I would suggest for you, trying it out on your handguard first. The handguard is easy to strip back down if you find you hate it as opposed to doing the whole stock.

This. I also prefer oil finishes.

and...

[Guest Razz]

Thanks guys. I will look into oil, today.

I am long on patience for this project but short on experience. I'll check out some videos before I move forward.

There will be pics, for sure. I just wasn't sure if I wanted to show the WIP pics, or not. I'll snap some off tonight and post here. This project represents a whole lot of "firsts" for me so I suppose I should document accordingly.

[peejman]

Dad's a woodworker and does various oil type finishes (tung, walnut, maybe linseed? ). I don't recall it being real difficult, just time consuming... lots of coats, depending on how you want the finish to look.

[Guest Nunya]

Cheapest way to do the first one is by the $15 kit from Academy Sports or somewhere like that. Just follow the instructions.

Tru-Oil makes a beautiful finish.

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_30337_-1?Ntt=gun+stock&Ntk=All

[gregintenn]

I'd suggest tru-oil just for it's simplicity. Rub it on with your finger. Let dry. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Etc. When you get enough on it to suit you, you can rub it with 0000 steel wool, or pumice dust to get a nice, professional looking finish.

[DaveS]

I would reccomend using the steel wool between coats of tru-oil, allowing each coat to dry fully first.

Dave S

Edited October 19, 2012 by DaveS

[Garufa]

Make up a batch of 1/3 mix (or Finn mix). One part each of BLO, beeswax and turpentine. Heat it up and apply warm. There's even a guy on the internet that sells his own recipe. Google "Toms 1/3".

No, I've never done it but it's very traditional and much more appropriate for a mil-surp than Tru-oil, Formby's imitation tung oil or some other Home Depot finish..

Edited October 19, 2012 by Garufa

[dou44]

tom's 1/3 looks great and the price was good the last time i checked.more correct than either of the above .it will not take much.

[bajabuc]

I used linseed oil, heat the stock. I did mine over a propane fire....I've also done it using a bbq grill out doors. Get the stock as hot as you can stand to touch and slather on the boiled linseed oil. rub it on until the stock is cool. do it again. five times works well. Melt beeswax and finger rub it over the oil. it's waterproof and not extremely shiny.

[LCPfraTN]

Here's a link to a long thread that discusses the techniques used by the Finns...I don't believe the OP on the linked thread has any free pine tar left at this point. This may not be exactly how you want to refinish your Mosin, but it still has a lot of good information.

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=182&t=88297

[Bassoneer]

I just refinished my Mosin two weeks ago. The wood wasn't much to look at, so once I stripped the orange shellac, I used a little red mahogany stain, then about three coats of tung oil over several days. Once I liked the finish I used some Renaissance Wax and this thing looks awesome. Flat finish (use 0000 steel wool between coats) and super smooth. It feels MUCH nicer when I hold it (instead of that sticky and scratched mess the Russians slathered on. I have also used the Birchwood Casey TruOil on several guns - it works well, but will give a shiner finish (it did for me). Good luck with yours - you should post a photo when you're done. Best Wishes, B

[Guest Razz]

Wow, TGO! Y'all are great.

I decided to use linseed oil because it was the first thing I could find when I went to Lowes. I have been rubbing the oil on the stock about three times a day and I'll continue this for a few more days. It looks really nice. I'll finish with wax when I'm satisfied with the oil.

I almost have myself talked into a nice glossy finish since the wood looks so good when a fresh coat of oil has been added.

I'll post pics tonight. Thanks again, guys!

[R1100R]

I have used a product called Lin-Speed for years with great reaults on my old military rifles. The last I got was from brownell's. I'm doing a K-31 and K98 right now.

[Guest Nunya]

I just refinished my Mosin two weeks ago. The wood wasn't much to look at, so once I stripped the orange shellac, I used a little red mahogany stain, then about three coats of tung oil over several days. Once I liked the finish I used some Renaissance Wax and this thing looks awesome. Flat finish (use 0000 steel wool between coats) and super smooth. It feels MUCH nicer when I hold it (instead of that sticky and scratched mess the Russians slathered on. I have also used the Birchwood Casey TruOil on several guns - it works well, but will give a shiner finish (it did for me). Good luck with yours - you should post a photo when you're done. Best Wishes, B

Tru-Oil does give a very shiny finish, but the "sheen" conditioner that comes in in the cheap kit dulls it to give a smoother feel.

[Tempest455]

I would reccomend using the steel wool between coats of tru-oil, allowing each coat to dry fully first.

Dave S

Ditto on that. Tru-Oil over a Tung Oil finish looks nice.

Edited October 21, 2012 by Tempest455

[Guest Razz]

Finally got to the range, today. 25 yards was all I had to play with but that's ok because I only took 20 rounds with me, to see how it shot. BIG kick!

Standing

Brought my .22 for some practice

[DaveS]

If that's the stock you refinished, you did one fine job! Would like to see some different pictures.

Dave S

[Guest Razz]

If that's the stock you refinished, you did one fine job! Would like to see some different pictures.

Dave S

Thanks, Dave! It's definitely not what I had in mind when I started but I've grown quite fond of it.

Here are some pics that I just took. This rifle is REALLY hard to photograph.

[DaveS]

Looking good!

Dave S

[LA_357SIG]

I finished mine with Spar Urethane with sanding between each coat and a final buffing of 000 steel wool.
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