SBR Questions

[ProjectDexter]

Pretend like I know nothing about SBRs.

I want a BCM 12.5", tell me what to do.

Got all my questions answered in the chat room thanks guys.

Edited August 26, 2012 by ProjectDexter

[Guest nysos]

Be ready to pay $200 on top of said gun. Find a class 3 dealer, tell them what you want and have them order it. They will start the paperwork with you and get the process started. Depending on the dealer you may have to pay for the rifle up front, others maybe 25% for a down payment and let you make payments on it til your stamp comes in. After you start your paperwork with the dealer, you will have to take it to get a signature from chief law enforcement officer of your county (sheriff's office, etc.). They will sign off and you can either pick the paperwork back up, or they will mail it to you depending on how they do things like that at their office. You will also have to get fingerprinted. After you get the signature & fingerprinted you go back to the dealer and have the paperwork sent off with your $200. Wait 6+ months or however long it takes to process your paperwork. When you get your stamp in, you can go to your dealer and take your rifle home.

[Guest nysos]

We also have a class 3 forum here.

[ProjectDexter]

Ok. Here is a two fold question. Maybe I should put this in the NFA section but it doesn't look like it gets as much traffic.

1) BCM looks like they have two 12.5 upper configurations. Standard with a carbine length front post, and then a Kino configuration with a carbine length LP gas block and a midlength front sight post.

If I wanted to remove the front sight post for a full length rail what is the best option and is there anything about the ports that I would need to change?

and 2) What is the absolute law about purchasing a used short barrel upper? Do I need to already have a stamped lower? Can I keep it in the safe until my paperwork and lower are stamped and approved?

[Lumber_Jack]

Ok. Here is a two fold question. Maybe I should put this in the NFA section but it doesn't look like it gets as much traffic.

1) BCM looks like they have two 12.5 upper configurations. Standard with a carbine length front post, and then a Kino configuration with a carbine length LP gas block and a midlength front sight post.

If I wanted to remove the front sight post for a full length rail what is the best option and is there anything about the ports that I would need to change?

and 2) What is the absolute law about purchasing a used short barrel upper? Do I need to already have a stamped lower? Can I keep it in the safe until my paperwork and lower are stamped and approved?

1) as long as the flash hider is removable you can switch the FSB for a low pro gas block and put on any length forearm.

2) you can buy any length upper without restriction. You can put it on a pistol lower without a tax stamp.

[ProjectDexter]

1) as long as the flash hider is removable you can switch the FSB for a low pro gas block and put on any length forearm.

2) you can buy any length upper without restriction. You can put it on a pistol lower without a tax stamp.

Thanks. I'm not planning on putting it on anything until I have a stamped lower, I just wanted to make sure it could be in my possession until the 4-6 months it takes for all the paperwork to be approved.

[Dolomite_supafly]

You have to have a stamped rifle lower before you can have a upper with a barrel less than 16". Now if you have a pistol lower you can have any length barrel you want. But you cannot have any an "extra" pistol upper when you have a rifle lower.

Rather than go through a dealer and buy your SBR you can do it yourself. You take a standard lower and fill out a Form 1 rather than a Form 4. Do all the fingerprinting CLEO signature and pictures. Send them off with a $200 check and wait.

And while you wait for your paperwork to come back have the lower engraved with your name and city, state. Make sure to have it engraved before the paperwork comes back. The reason is before the paperwork comes abck it is a Title 1 firearm but after your paperwork comes back it is a NFA item. The difference is a standard FFL can engrave a title 1 and a Class 3 dealer/manufacturer needs to work on NFA items.

Then when your paperwork comes back go buy the upper you want and assemble the upper and lower together.

Dolomite

[Dolomite_supafly]

Want me to move this to the NFA section?

[Guest nysos]

Thanks. I'm not planning on putting it on anything until I have a stamped lower, I just wanted to make sure it could be in my possession until the 4-6 months it takes for all the paperwork to be approved.

Yes, what many people do for AR's is configure it as a pistol. Then when the stamp comes through, they are able to put a stock on it. There are some other details you need to go over as far as "intent to build", so you can't own a stock + have it sitting around with your pistol configured AR unless you have your stamp or another AR15 that is in a rifle configuration where it is then considered a spare part for your rifle.

[DaveTN]

It’s not 12.5†its 9.2â€, but does a PLR-16 meet the needs of you application? No muss, no government fuss.

[Lumber_Jack]

But you cannot have any an "extra" pistol upper when you have a rifle lower.

I forgot about that part.

I agree with Nysos. Just build a pistol lower and then change to stock once the stamp comes in.

Edited August 26, 2012 by Lumber_Jack

[ProjectDexter]

Want me to move this to the NFA section?

sure thx.

[ProjectDexter]

somebody in here chat me real quick

[RWF]

Ok. Here is a two fold question. Maybe I should put this in the NFA section but it doesn't look like it gets as much traffic.

1) BCM looks like they have two 12.5 upper configurations. Standard with a carbine length front post, and then a Kino configuration with a carbine length LP gas block and a midlength front sight post.

If I wanted to remove the front sight post for a full length rail what is the best option and is there anything about the ports that I would need to change?

and 2) What is the absolute law about purchasing a used short barrel upper? Do I need to already have a stamped lower? Can I keep it in the safe until my paperwork and lower are stamped and approved?

for what it is worth i never been able to buy a short barrel or upper with sending a copy of my approved form first.

[Romad7]

For the front sight post, I just took a Dremel to it and cut off what I needed to in order to get the longer tube to fit.

[ProjectDexter]

For the front sight post, I just took a Dremel to it and cut off what I needed to in order to get the longer tube to fit.

instead of a low profile gas block?

[Dolomite_supafly]

Yes, I have done the same thing as well.

Just cut the top off the iron sight then clean it up with a file or die grinder.

Dolomite

[ProjectDexter]

Angle grinder and dremel

[Lumber_Jack]

for what it is worth i never been able to buy a short barrel or upper with sending a copy of my approved form first.

How could anyone build an AR pistol this way? BCM and other online sites just say "NFA rules apply"

[Dolomite_supafly]

for what it is worth i never been able to buy a short barrel or upper with sending a copy of my approved form first.

I have only had a few that have done this. And every single one will never get a single red cent from me.

I know J&T distributing will not sell their M16 carriers unless you can provide proof you have a legal machine gun. Their "gun guy" says all it takes is the M16 carrier to make an AR full auto, no mention of FCG. They also have exhibited some questionable business practices in the past. I know I have seen one of the builders appear to be so high he could barely keep his eyes open. Could have just been tired but either way the person should not have been assembling AR's.

J&T have also sold barrels they accidentally phosphated the bore. I feel sorry for all those who bought those barrels. If they are lucky the guns will only be inaccurate but more than likely they will experiance some serious pressure issues. I even bought one for a rimfire build and tossed it when it would not group better than 2', yes two feet, at 25 yards.

Dolomite

[Romad7]

Angle grinder and dremel

If you haven't already get the vise block to secure the upper in the vise like in the video. I got the block and the plastic insert that goes in the mag well as a set on Amazon.

[scoutfsu]

for what it is worth i never been able to buy a short barrel or upper with sending a copy of my approved form first.

Wherever you're shopping........you shouldn't go back. That's ridiculous.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Enjoyed the posted video on modifying the gas block. Being as its been at least a day or two since asking a dumb mechanical question-- I occasionally use a 4.5" angle grinder but dunno much about them. The fella does a lot of side-grinding to rough-out his smoothed cuts. Think I recall reading maybe on the packaging of thin cutoff wheels, that one shouldn't do side-grinding with a thin wheel. Is it OK to do light side-grinding like that fella is doing with a light wheel, or would it be more "kosher" to put on a thicker wheel for that part of the work? Does the fella risk maybe his thin wheel self-destructing on him using it thataway, or is that needless worry? Thanks.

[Romad7]

Enjoyed the posted video on modifying the gas block. Being as its been at least a day or two since asking a dumb mechanical question-- I occasionally use a 4.5" angle grinder but dunno much about them. The fella does a lot of side-grinding to rough-out his smoothed cuts. Think I recall reading maybe on the packaging of thin cutoff wheels, that one shouldn't do side-grinding with a thin wheel. Is it OK to do light side-grinding like that fella is doing with a light wheel, or would it be more "kosher" to put on a thicker wheel for that part of the work? Does the fella risk maybe his thin wheel self-destructing on him using it thataway, or is that needless worry? Thanks.

It's a pretty light job so I don't see it being a problem, not a lot of flex on the wheel if you go easy. I wouldn't do it a lot or put a lot lateral of pressure on the disk. A Dremel disk is another story, have had a few of those self destruct, always wear safety glasses.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

It's a pretty light job so I don't see it being a problem, not a lot of flex on the wheel if you go easy. I wouldn't do it a lot or put a lot lateral of pressure on the disk. A Dremel disk is another story, have had a few of those self destruct, always wear safety glasses.

Thanks Romad. Yep I've had dremel cutoff disks blow apart, and do not use em very often because they are so fragile. And then there are the little dremel "gear shaped" saw-blade cutoff bits that have to be handled very carefully indeed. The grinding stones can break occasionally but I generally go for grinding stones, the fatter "gear shaped" grinders, small diamond grinders, and the sanding wheels as the fellow uses in that video. The sanding wheels are real effective and its hard to get in much trouble with them.

Never had an angle grinder disk come apart but the dewalt grinder spins so fast was thinking that might be an exciting event.