Which rifle for first lever gun?

[thefinder808]

Ok guys I'm now in the market for my first lever gun and I'm very very excited to finally get my hands on one. In mid-September I will have saved up $1000 to buy two guns, one will (God willing) be the Kahr cm9, and the other will be my first lever action rifle (I want it in 30-30). From the research I've done the Marlin 336 (NIB $385 at wally world) is a favorite among many people and it fits into my budget nicely. The problem is I keep hearing that ever since Remington took over manufacture of these the quality has gone downhill. I went to Wal-Mart to check one out and indeed there was a lot of slop in the lever itself, although I'm not sure if this is normal or not having never owned one. The man behind the counter told me to stay away from the new Marlins and instead go for either a Henry or a Winchester 94. The Henry($400-600 on GB) I could afford but the Winchester is pretty pricey new, the prices I saw were in the $1,000s, although I saw some used on GB for in the $500 range.

So what do you guys think? Should I look for an older Marlin in good condition? Are the new ones just fine? Or should I forget the Marlins and go with Henry or a used Winchester? I need your help as I'm more of a handgun guy, and have very little experience in these matters.

Thanks,

TheFinder

[Caster]

I love Henry rifles and the mindset behind them, but I loathe the tube loading. A side loading gate is a must for me. BUT, if you don't mind loading it like a tube fed .22, you will NOT be disappointed with the quality and people Henry. THey answer every email and really believe in their product.

Personally, I think it's dang hard to beat a '94 unless it's a Savage '99.

[gregintenn]

Sir, I would recommend a good condition pre 64 Winchester model 94 or 64. If you don't mind a hammerless lever rifle, the 1899 Savage would be a good choice. It's also hard to beat an old 36 Marlin.

[Jonnin]

Get a used marlin. Or one of the others, used if you find it. If you hit a gun show there will be many, many lever 30-30s. Do not discount other calibers if the right gun comes along used --- it is not recoil operated, so you can get for example a 308 and handload that to be 30-30 and up if you load your own. But there are too many quality used guns to buy a new one if you have budget restrictions.

[Curiousgb]

Hunt the pawn shops for a nice Marlin. I have a pre-Marlington 336 in 35Rem that is a tack driver.

[Garufa]

You're on the right track with a Marlin 336. Don't have any experience with the newer models but they are a traditional favorite for good reason. They are very accurate, well made and can be easily scoped if desired.

If I'm not mistaken there's one in the classifieds right now.

[frankmako]

hit the pawn shops for the older ones. they are made better and the prices are better.

[BPE]

I received a newer model Marlin 336 last year for deer hunting season since I drooled all over my FIL's mid-80's Marlin. The two guns are very different in many ways to the discerning. The older Marlin is much smoother in operation but I account its age and number of rounds put down the barrel for this, like a worn in baseball glove.

The largest difference is the safety mechanism in the rifles. In the older model the safety switch is internal the lever and you don't notice its existence. The hammer has two positions as best I can tell, home and cocked. In the newer version there is a pin hanging down under the back of the lever that has to be pushed inward by seating the lever completely closed. While this seems obvious, sitting quietly in a tree stand at 5am in the morning waiting for the sun to rise, the least bit of motion causes the lever to slightly move and let go of the safety switch and the trigger won't pull and the gun won't go bang. Additionally, the hammer has three positions, home, cocked and decocked safety where it prevents the hammer from resting on the firing pin. This I see as an upside as the hammer in my model is not resting against the firing pin while climbing through the woods so any drops or whoops moments will be less likely to set off the chain reaction proof of my clumsiness.

However, with proper TLC and oil and grease my Marlin is getting pretty close to the same smooth operation. I've put roughly 40 rounds down the pipe to break it in and sight it into perfection. Now, I wouldn't trade it away for anything. You can't go wrong for the price and value of the 336. It will fire if you manage it right and care for it like any other weapon you own. There are other good suggestions offered here that I don't have experience with so I can't offer comparison there. But no reason to rule out the 336 if your heart was set on it.

Edited August 23, 2012 by BPE

[thefinder808]

Thanks for all the advice guys, keep it coming. The Marlin in the classifieds is really beautiful, if I had the money now I'd without a doubt be all over it. Is it normal for the lever on a lever gun to have side to side play in it while open?

[Oh Shoot]

.... Is it normal for the lever on a lever gun to have side to side play in it while open?

Yes. Both my Marlin 336 and 1894 (in .357 mag) have a lot of play when open. Both made at the original Marlin factory. The 1894 has the most.

I'd opine that the Remlins may not have the fit/finish that the older ones do, but even the Marlins made a number of years before the move from the New Haven plant had fallen off in this regard too, at least according the Marlinite hard core. On the other hand, they are still perfectly functional and minor cosmetic diffs are likely only noticeable by side by side comparison. Few lines of traditional rifles have the same degree of deep bluing of their ancestors. Hell, many are now "painted", not blued at all, like Ruger 10/22. Doesn't mean they're still not a fine rifle, and as good as it gets for the money.

All lever guns will smooth out with use. Some folks sit around and rack them a thousand times while watching tube or whatever.

The birch stocked 336("w" I guess) that Wally sells is a fine buy and the rifle should serve you well. A new 336W is the same rifle no matter where you buy it. You can study up on all this at MarlinOwners.com

- OS

Edited August 23, 2012 by OhShoot

[Guest capt usa]

You're on the right track with a Marlin 336. Don't have any experience with the newer models but they are a traditional favorite for good reason. They are very accurate, well made and can be easily scoped if desired.

This right here. I've had mine for 30 years and love it. Still has the $125 price tag.

[lshel]

Get a used Marlin Model 336 in 30-30, check where barrel meets receiver it will be stamped "JM" , Marlin's proof mark.

If Stamped REM, then Remington. There is aused Marlin in TGO classified.

[Oh Shoot]

Get a used Marlin Model 336 in 30-30, check where barrel meets receiver it will be stamped "JM" , Marlin's proof mark.

If Stamped REM, then Remington. There is aused Marlin in TGO classified.

Well, If you don't want to strain your eyes, current made models won't say North Haven, CT on the barrels either, I don't reckon.

Who has a Remlin, btw, do they show Ilion, NY? Mayfield, KY?

- OS

Edited August 23, 2012 by OhShoot

[Dolomite_supafly]

You can find nice used examples at pawn shops for under $250 if you give it a little time. I have seen used ones at the shows for a little more.

And if you don't mind a scratch and dent "shooter" those can be found for $175-$200 at pawn shops.

Personally I wouldn't mind having one I am not afraid to carry in the woods. Or one I don't freak out over if it falls to the ground.

And generally speaking those on the used market AR's going to be real Marlin rifles.

Dolomite

[Guest Aces&8s]

You can find nice used examples at pawn shops for under $250 if you give it a little time.

Dolomite

This. In the local pawn shops around here, one can usually find an older Marlin lever gun or two. One thing to consider is that with deer season rapidly approaching, prices may tend to be higher and selection poorer, just due to increased demand. Don't rush, look around, and you'll find yourself a deal. And the older Marlins are worth it - my brother had a 1980's model that I would love to have now.

[thefinder808]

Ok guys so while searching local pawn shops I stumbled upon a Western Field 740 Marlin, so from what I've gathered it's a Marlin 336 that was sold by a certain company. It seemed to be in good condition and was priced at $250. I really like the looks of it, nice wood and no pitting or problems with the bluing. I'm wondering if there was any difference between the "normal" Marlin 336 and the Western Field version, and also if this is a good price.

[Guest Aces&8s]

Ok guys so while searching local pawn shops I stumbled upon a Western Field 740 Marlin, so from what I've gathered it's a Marlin 336 that was sold by a certain company. It seemed to be in good condition and was priced at $250. I really like the looks of it, nice wood and no pitting or problems with the bluing. I'm wondering if there was any difference between the "normal" Marlin 336 and the Western Field version, and also if this is a good price.

If it is in good shape, then $250 is probably average for that gun. The Western Field 740 is, as you say, merely a rebranded 336 that was sold in places like Montgomery Wards, Ace Hardware, etc. The 740 typically has smooth wood with no checkering... kind of a "no frills" model, if you like.

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[dlm37015]

there is a sears ted willams 30/30 at the household pawn on charlotte pike in nashville 229.00 it looks like new it was made in 66

Edited August 29, 2012 by dlm37015