Need an SME on M1 Carbines

[A.J. Holst]

This will be my next long gun purchase, unless I stumble across an AR/AK/Mini platform for a steal.

I could go new / newish with the AO product, $800+

$800 - $900 is on the upper end of my budget.

What do I look for in a used M1? is there a "pre-buy" checklist?

The Universal brand is on the low end of the price range in the mid-$500s, but my internet research revealed they are "different" with different parts with some good, some bad; so do I rule out Universal?

Thanks in advance,

AJ

[Garufa]

Personally, I would stay away from Universals or any other make that was not USGI. Some of them do have issues.

You should have no problem finding a very nice specimen in your price range. It's kind of hard to give a comprehensive breakdown on what to look for because there are a lot of variations. There were something like 12 or 13 manufacturers during WWII (all production ceased at the end of the war) and several variations on parts.

I would look for one that is USGI with a decent looking barrel crown and that is not shot out. Most still have the orginal barrels.

Check out the CMP forums and/or surplusrifle.com. There is tons on information on both sites.

Edited August 2, 2012 by Garufa

[Caster]

Universal is NOT the same. Run away. They are copies and not even a good copy. You will find some that cycle but they are junk on the whole. Buy a real M1 carbine so you can buy real M1 parts. M1 parts do not fit Universal carbines. At least not the ones you see often. There were a few early ones that would interchange but, seriously, I'm one of many who got burned on the Universal. Don't waste your moeny.

[gregintenn]

I'd suggest buying a mil surp m1. I feel they'll hold their value better than a newer production one. There's also something inspiring about holding a piece of history and wondering where all it has been.

I have a couple, a well used Winchester, and a pretty nice Inland. They both shoot and function great. The way they are built, I can't see much that could be wrong with one you wouldn't notice with a cursory glance, i.e. broken wood, missing parts, pitted bore, etc.

[Chumney]

By all means buy a USGI M1 carbine is what I would purchase, The only way to be sure is to have it check by a gunsmith to make certain that all fit and functional parts are in spec.

[Garufa]

By all means buy a USGI M1 carbine is what I would purchase, The only way to be sure is to have it check by a gunsmith to make certain that all fit and functional parts are in spec.

Where can you find a gunsmith that knows anything about them?

[Mark@Sea]

Avoid Universal as you would that guy in the orange bathtowel at the airport. The AO is more like a door to door insurance salesman - you might end up needing to talk to the guy, but you won't really enjoy it.

Any GI carbine is fine. Winchester is inland is rockola is... well, you get the idea. They all met specs.

Use a borelight to check the bore for pits.

Use a muzzle gauge if you have one to check the bore. Less than 1, very good. Less than 2, okay. Less than 3 is acceptable. 3+ = new barrel needed.

Remove the action from the stock. Check receiver carefully at corners for (tiny) cracks. Use a glass and a light. Use that blue paste if you can get away with it. Deal killer. Things are near impossible to reweld correctly.

Check the recoil block (the metal hook at top rear of stock inletting that holds the action) for cracks along the corners. Not a deal killer, they are available NOS, but something to be aware of.

As long as you have it out of the stock, take a quick look at the gas piston. Should move easily, no pits/corrosion. If sticky, you might try cleaning it first. Do not oil. Do not oil. Do not oil.

Springs - you're gonna replace 'em anyway if they are at all weak, they are easily found. No worries.

Extractor - excessively worn? GI extractors are available, but are getting pricier by the week.

Cracked stock? Fixable? Replacements are easily found, price goes up rapidly depending on condition/originality/proof marks.

Rear of receiver loose, wobbles or rattles a little in the stock? Not an issue, as long as the recoil block is okay. It can be squeezed to tighten the receiver up. See the CMP forum tips on accurizing a carbine for details.

Front sight loose or wobbly? Held to the barrel by a pin. As long as the keyslot in the barrel isn't AFU, front sight and pin are available and fairly easy to replace.

Rear sight loose? Same deal.

Mags. 15RD GI are the best. New production korean 15 rounders are very good. Other makes are crap. 30 round GI's are okay, but unless you have the right mag release, will fail to seat correctly due to weight. Also they won't fit in the standard mag pouch.

[Chumney]

Dean's Gun restoration in Lafo;;ette is very good with M1 Carbines and very highly respected with M1 Garands. Not to far from Knoxville.