Stupid question about a black powder rifle.

[gjohnsoniv]

I have a black powder rifle of my grandfather's. The problem is that he is no longer alive and I have never shot the rifle, nor has my father. The question I have is how do you figure out the correct charge for it? Do I slowly build up the charge or is there a general guideline for the different calibers?

[Garufa]

Are there any marking on it indicating what it is or who made it? Any idea of caliber?

Post pics.

Edited July 20, 2012 by Garufa

[gjohnsoniv]

I'll have to grab it the next time I'm over at my father's house. I know it's not a large caliber muzzle loader, percussion cap I think, and no clue of who made it.

The reason I ask is because I have decided that I would like to bring it out and shoot it again, apparently from what my Grandmother has said is that it was incredibly accurate. Very long barreled.

Edited July 20, 2012 by gjohnsoniv

[DaveS]

Knowing tha caliber would be a good start. The condition of the rifle would also be an indicator as to whether or not I shot it, or hung it on the wall to remember Grandpa!

A fair rule of thumb for a rifle in good condition would be start with a powder load equal to the caliber there abouts, and work up from there.

You don't need to use an ungodly amount of powder either. It's not needed unless you like alot of noise, smoke and reduced accuracy!

Dave

[gjohnsoniv]

Last I saw it, it was in good condition. I can't remember the caliber though, if I had to guess though I would say it's in the 40 caliber somewhere. It's been about two or three years since I've seen it.

Edited July 20, 2012 by gjohnsoniv

[dats82]

Before you go loading it to shoot it, make sure it is not already loaded. Many BP guns get loaded, and are only unloaded if they are shot. As a matter of fact, I need to check mine, I bet it is still loaded.

[Dolomite_supafly]

And before you ask this is how you check if it is loaded or not.

Take a rod and mark the distance from where the nipple goes into the barrel to the muzzle. There may be a stand off but mark to that. Now take the rod and stick it into the bore. If it doesn't hide the mark then it IS loaded. If it hides the mark then it probably is NOT loaded.

Dolomite

[gjohnsoniv]

I do know how to check, load, and fire them. Just don't know what kind of charge I should be doing.

[Timestepper]

Dave gave you pretty much the best answer: Start with a charge roughly equivalent to the caliber and work up or down from there to establish the best accuracy.

If, after going up and down in a 20 grain span (from 30 to 50 grains for a .40 cal.) accuracy hasn't changed significantly, then start experimenting with patch thickness. .010 is a good place to start, then .015 - .018 and/or down to 5/1000ths.

It's worth noting that my own rifle displays a contrary streak and will shoot the nuts off a gnat with 50 grains of FFg Goex and a .010 patch up home in Kansas, but takes 60 grains and a .005 patch to do the same thing in the high humidity of East Tennessee.

Luck to you!

[RED333]

We could go step by step, I think you will get more out of this.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+load+a+black+powder+rif&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

The 1st link is a youtube vid that is a good place to start, If you are like me, you do better looking and hearing than reading.LOL

I would load a blank the first few times, blank = paper or cloth bullit.

This will give you an idear of fuction.

[gjohnsoniv]

We could go step by step, I think you will get more out of this.

https://www.google.c...lient=firefox-a

The 1st link is a youtube vid that is a good place to start, If you are like me, you do better looking and hearing than reading.LOL

I would load a blank the first few times, blank = paper or cloth bullit.

This will give you an idear of fuction.

LOL you are correct, I would rather see it done then read about it, though I don't mind reading.

@Timestepper. Where do you get a different thickness of patch?

[RED333]

I work on cooking equipment, have to go for training, if it was not for hands I would learn nothing.

[bajabuc]

percussion? snap a couple of caps...after you're sure it's not loaded... flint? check for load...snap the cock and check for spark. good spark...prime and aim it at some grass...grass moved in the breeze....shoot that puppy.

Also...half cock and TRY...really TRY to make the hammer fall. Half cock is about all the safety you're gonna get...unless it's a high class first quality Manton...some of those have a sliding bar safety.

Welcome to the addiction that's worse than heroin. Mmmmmm the smell of 3f in the morning.

[gjohnsoniv]

Yep percussion as far as I remember.

[Spots]

So your gonna sell it to me right? At least hurry up and post pics.

[gjohnsoniv]

So your gonna sell it to me right? At least hurry up and post pics.

Haha don't think I could do that. I have yet to go over to dad's house but I might try and run over there today.

[Timestepper]

@Timestepper. Where do you get a different thickness of patch?

Any place that sells traditional muzzleloading supplies will have different thicknesses of patches, most of which are pre-cut to fit a number of different calibers. In a pinch, you can invest in a caliper and "mic" your own, trying different types of cloth for different thicknessess/textures. Remember, with a front-stuffer, it's the patch which engages the rifling, rather than the <round ball> projectile.

You can also experiment with different types of patch lube to help accuracy. I've personally become very fond of a beezwax/orange oil mixture that I <accidentally> whipped up one day while trying to come up with a good long-lasting wood polish. Of course when I'm hunting I usually just "spit patch." (That is to say that I use salive to moisten the patch before loading.)

Tons of fun, these smoke poles and you can learn enough to be qualified as an expert and still not know as much as you want to. I've been shooting, studying and teaching (I was a 4-H Muzzleloading Instructor for several years in Kansas) since I was your age (or before) and still can't quite get over the addiction.

[gjohnsoniv]

So uh will that orange and beeswax oil from Minwax work? Lol.

[Timestepper]

So uh will that orange and beeswax oil from Minwax work? Lol.

It might. Especially if you add a little mineral oil, whale oil and castor oil like I did. (The orange oil additive was mostly an after thought to make it smell better.) Knew some old timers who wouldn't use anything but bear grease. Great thing about home-made patch lube: if it's slick and you can think of it, it'll probably work... unless it doesn't.

[gjohnsoniv]

Hmm I might have to give that a try because I was looking at a whole bottle of it earlier.