scope question. parallax and focus

[vujade]

for reference, I'm using this scope: SWFA SS 10x42

From what I'm reading, there is a distinct difference between parallax and focus although they are somewhat related.

The SS10x42 has the rear parallax adjustment at the back (normally where you would adjust the variable magnification). There is then the eyepiece where you adjust the focus.

I've tried to adjust a newly installed scope by pointing it at the sky with the parallax set to infinity. I then start to adjust the focus until the crosshairs are tight/not fuzzy.

I then put the cross hairs on something I know is at 100 yards and adjust the parallax to be set at 100 yards. However, if adjust the parallax down to say 30 or 40, it's actually more clear! If I focus on something at say 50 yards, it's most clear when I set the parallax to 15!

Is that normal? Do I set it to the 'proper' parallax setting at the cost of being clear or is it best to have it set at the most clear it can be (and have to wonder if I'll have parallax point of impact errors).

What am I trying to accomplish? I just want to have the tightest groups I can, minimizing any errors such as POI changes.

[vujade]

oh, I'll add this. I also have a Nikon Buckmasters 4-14x40. On that one, If i'm looking at something at 100 yards, I set the parallax at 100 yards and it's crystal clear. (likewise at targets at 50 yards and moving the parallax setting to 50 yards).

[RED333]

I have a 10 - 24 x 50 scope and the parallax adjustment is on the 50mm hood.

Settings 100 yrds, 200, 300, and infinity. I set my parallax before I look

through and then focus the scope. If I change parallax range I refocus.

So parallax range then refocus.

That is how I do the adjustments.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Take your scope and point it at a white wall with nothing in the background of the scope. Turn your parallax adjustment to the closest distance availabe. Then adjust your scope's focus (not parallax) ring until the crosshairs are clear to your eyes. This is to ensure the crosshairs remain clear no matter the parralax.It is possible that your reticle is out of focus but your eyes correct for it and this small correction can throw the parallax off.

Once you have focused the reticle then the parallax should be used to clear up the distances, not the reticle. Now it is possible that the parallax knob is off. Some are actually adjustable so you can put the hash harks of the knob to the correct distance.

Find a known distance and adjust the parallax until it is as clear as it is going to get. It should line up, if not then you need to adjust it. If you can't adjust it you may want to take a paper label and make new hash marks. And actually this is better for more precise work. Take the scope, with the label, and focus it at 100 yards, then 150, then 200, then 250, then 300 and mark each. Now you can use your parallax adjustment to determine range within 50 yards. Just turn the parallax knob until everything comes into focus and what is on the knob is the distance.

Dolomite

[herr.baer]

You focued your rifle correctly. Once that is set you shouldn't have to mess with it again. For the parallax, set your crosshairs on the target and adjust the parallax until the target is in focus. Don't worry about the numbers since everyones eyes are different. Once the target is clear. Move your head just slightly from side to side. If your crosshairs don't seem to shift when you move then your parallax is set correctly.

[Dolomite_supafly]

I have a 10 - 24 x 50 scope and the parallax adjustment is on the 50mm hood.

Settings 100 yrds, 200, 300, and infinity. I set my parallax before I look

through and then focus the scope. If I change parallax range I refocus.

So parallax range then refocus.

That is how I do the adjustments.

So you refocus your scope every time you shoot at different ranges?

Loosening the focus ring ring can affect your zero some. Next time you have the focus ring loose look throguht he scope and turn it . You will see the reticle bounce around. And depending on where you lock it in place it can be off.

The focus ring is designed to be adjusted once then left alone. The "fast focus" eye pieces we see now are not needed because you are adjusting the reticle to your eyes and should never change, at least not every range session.

Just trying to keep you from doing a bunch of extra work and keep you on target.

Dolomite

[mikegideon]

I'll just add one thing. Once you think you have your parallax set, put the crosshairs on the target and move your head around some. If the crosshair moves on the target, you need to tweak your parallax some to minimze it.

[Guest nowheretobefound]

You have been given some sound information, also read up on your own, here are two quick finds from a simple search;

short explanation;

http://www.larrywillis.com/tip015.html

more detailed;

http://www.6mmbr.com/parallax.html

Another thing, I'm not familiar with the scope you're referencing so I don't know its quality which could be playing a part in your dilemma.

[Dolomite_supafly]

The SWFA Super Sniper scopes have developed a cult following. They are durable and work well for the money. I have looked through a bunch of them and none of them have been as clear as a comparably priced Bushnell or Burris. With that being said they are some good entry level scopes and I wouldn't feel bay paying what they ask for them.

Not sure where they are made now. They were originally made by Tasco in Japan. When Tasco dropped the line SWFA picked up the line as their own and began making them to Tasco's original specifications.

Dolomite

[Guest nowheretobefound]

"Super Sniper" ???

I'll stick with my S&Bs and US Optics.

[RED333]

So you refocus your scope every time you shoot at different ranges?

Loosening the focus ring ring can affect your zero some. Next time you have the focus ring loose look throguht he scope and turn it . You will see the reticle bounce around. And depending on where you lock it in place it can be off.

The focus ring is designed to be adjusted once then left alone. The "fast focus" eye pieces we see now are not needed because you are adjusting the reticle to your eyes and should never change, at least not every range session.

Just trying to keep you from doing a bunch of extra work and keep you on target.

Dolomite

Thanks man, I guess I was doing it all wrong.

Set focus and leave it alone, then set parallax for diff range.

Got it.

[vujade]

good info.

I'll be reading up and then I'll play with setting it up again.

I couldn't pass it up for $100. (no visible damage/clean/like new condition). It's replacing a Nikon buckmaster 4-14x. I know that's probably a superior scope but I'll be putting that on another rifle. And this SS (yeah, I think that other name is silly too so I just say it's SS) will work for what I'm trying to accomplish. (and it matches the rifle/stock and it's just as good to look good than work good right). =)

thanks guys!

[vujade]

guys, sorry i'm a newb here; so some more questions.

I have a target out at about 100 yards (ok, it's my neighbor's porch light). I have the rifle on a pretty firm rest (it's not moving).

I made sure the crosshairs are as 'tight as can be' by focusing on the sky and then re-checking by focusing on a wall. I'm now going to leave that setting.

If I adjust the parallax setting, its most clear (where the target is clear/sharp WITH the crosshairs also clear/sharp) when the parallax setting is around 15 meters/yards (i'm not sure what the measurement on the scope is). If I crank it to 100 - it's pretty darn fuzzy.

I tried the test, I don't touch the rifle - i just line my eyes up and look through the scope. if I move my head left - right, I'm good! almost no parallax (it'll does still move a little). However, when I move my eyes up and down, there is movement on the crosshairs relative to the target.

Is that normal?

As a test, I stuck a bore sighter on there and target a the soda can I have on a tree (bb gun) that is 20 yards. The laser is not moving but in all parallax setting, that movement is obvious.

The movement of my eye, should it be VERY minor? or am I maybe moving my head too much.

I'm trying to get the tightest group, i don't want any of it related to some parallax error.

Should I assume that when the sharpest image IS, that is the setting where parallax is minimal?

Could it be a scope issue? (I know this ain't a S&B or US Optics) but I reckon is still not a walmart special and should be decent enough for what I'm trying to accomplish.

[graycrait]

I would have grabbed that SS for a 100 bucks too if I had seen it priced for that. It is what I would have put on one of my experimental .22s if I had not gotten the free Swift 6-18x44 Mildot.

My advice is to set it up with a laser boresighter, do what Dolomite said about parallax and reticle focus, then shoot it. Then have at least one other person who knows a little about scopes take a few shots, allowing the freedom to adjust the scope to their preferences. If two of you confirm it on the range that something is amiss, call SS and see if they will fix it.

If you are in or near Clarksville, get a hold of me by pm and I know a couple of guys who can take a look at it...

[vujade]

guys. sorry I forgot to update this.

I sent an email to SWFA. This is what I received the next day:

---

Based on what you have described, this sounds more like a mounting issue.

Without seeing your weapon, I cannot say definitively, but I want to say that your mounts are too close to the turret saddle and this is putting stress on the internal aspect of the scope and this is why you are experiencing this issue.

If this is the case, I would loosen the rings and position them closer to the center of the main tube or throat. This should remedy what you are experiencing.

Thank you,

---

So I did...I loosened the mounting rings. (they seemed fine) but I moved the rear one maybe a few mm so that it's about exactly centered. I tightened it to 14 inch/pounds (I had it at 15 prior) just to be safe. Looked at a target (neighborhood shingles and roof tops) at 100 and 200 yards and wow! No parallax issues!

I still have to have it set (parallax setting) to 15-18 meters (which is odd) but with no parallax up/down/side/side, I'm good to go. I'll just pretend the 10m on the scope really means 100 meters!

Thanks for the help/suggestion!