Suggest a new scope for me.

[IggyBcool]

I've not really been looking too in depth for a new scope for my 300RUM since its summer time. With fall fast approaching, I'm starting to get the itch to buy one for the gun.

I'm looking for something that is very clear both up close and far away. I'm needing something that is not complicated to work (like mil dot/BDC) that is going to make me miss a trophy, but will also let me be comfortable in slinging one down range that is a good bit away since the 300RUM has the capability. I'm trying to stay around or under $500.

[Romad7]

I just bought an SWFA SS scope and it's a great deal for $300. Rated for up to 50 cal. It's the new one with the mil-quad reticle. Has mil turrets to match the mil reticle for easy adjustments.

Consider the one with the side focus knob for easier adjustments without having to look at the top of the scope.

I am very happy with mine so far.

[Jonnin]

If you want both close up and far, consider a 2-7 or 3-9 power adjustable. I really like this type, they adjust fast and while a little strong at point blank range, they cover everything from 25-200 yards easily (though you will still have to adapt for up/down based off the distance and know your rough ballistics). I am not too brand picky, so long as the scope has a lifetime replacement. Most brands offer the same scope with a wide variety of reticles from electronic to traditional to mil-dot and more. Should be able to get anything in any model from most of the major brands.

[catsbackr]

Leupold VX-3 3.5-10x40. $479.99. www.natchezss.com.

[Howler]

Nikon or Leupold have good glass. I've used both, as well as others, with great results. These two seem to pull in good light for hunting. I prefer a 3x9 or 4x12x40. Normally a 4x12 will set on my big rifles. Most of the time, while in the woods, my scope is set on 4.5X anyway. So the above choices make the most sense. Also ask yourself if you want a fine duplex or heavy. One of my deer rifles is set up to shoot open fields and because of that I chose a fine duplex. My ML is set up to shoot in heavy cover, that scope has a very heavy duplex. For me, it makes it easy to find the target in low light and thick underbrush. I like these two the most but I know there are others that are just as good. Burris has a good rep but can't say I've used one while hunting. Let us know what ya get.

[Dolomite_supafly]

A mildot reticle is the easiest reticle to use. The only thing easier is a laser range finder.

With mildots, vs MOA dots, the input measurement is the output measurement. That is if you measure the target height in yeards the distance will be in yeards. Or if you measure height in feet the output on the other end of the equation is feet. And the equation is SIMPLE, as in in your head easy.

The formula is the target height x 1,000 then divide that by the number of dots the target covers on the reticle.

Take a 2 yard tall person. Multiply that by 1,000 giving you 2,000. Then lay the reticle over the target. Say 4 dots cover the target. So you divide 2,000 by 4 and you get 500 yards as the distance to the target. Or if the same target only covers 3 dots then the target would be 666 yards.

Or a deer with a .5 yard tall chest cavity. multiply that by 1,000 giving you 500. And if 2 dots cover the chest cavity then the deer is 250 yards away.

The only real variable is knowing how tall the target measurement is.

Easy, easy math unlike MOA reticle.

Dolomite

[DaveTN]

Leupold.

In that price range I would check this out....

Leupold VX-3 Rifle Scope 4.5-14x 40mm $529

http://www.midwayusa...x-reticle-matte

[IggyBcool]

Sorry about not replying sooner, I honestly kind of forgot posting this thread...yeahh one of those nights

I'm getting closer and closer to pulling the pin on getting some good glass. But I just realized that I'm going to have to also replace the scope on my ML which since its not used that much I'll probably settle for either a Prostaff or Buckmaster.

Right now I've really got it narrowed down to a Monarch and a VX-3. Between those two, whats the better bang for the buck? They both come in a good aray of reticles. Just havent quite figured out which one I want yet. But I have determined that I want a 4x12

[jon29253]

VX-3 is my choice in that pric range. I'm About to pull the trigger on one this week. Upgrading from older Vari-x II 3-9. Going with the 4.5-14 listed above. Will be on my 308 rifle.

[IggyBcool]

Dolo, is it true that on mil-dot, the power of the scope affects the zero? Or is everything plugged in to the turrets and hold it square zero and pull the trigger?

I'm just trying to figure out whats the best reticle for hunting and hunting for long range since the 300rum has the capability.

[Hozzie]

Leupold for me, no question if I have a choice. I have a Nikon Monarch in 5-20, VX-3's in 6.5-20, and 4.5-14, and vx-II's in 4-12 and 3-9. The VX-3's are better than the VX-II's, but for the money, the VX-II isn't bad. The Nikon is great for the money I paid for it as well, but I like the design of the Leupolds better as well.

For your muzzleloader check out the Leupold UltimateSlam with the Sabot Ballistic Reticle. It is made for Muzzleloaders and Shotguns and its easy to use the dot's in the scope based on if you use 100g or 150g loads. I just got one in Camo on sale for $209.

[10-Ring]

A mildot reticle is the easiest reticle to use. The only thing easier is a laser range finder.

With mildots, vs MOA dots, the input measurement is the output measurement. That is if you measure the target height in yeards the distance will be in yeards. Or if you measure height in feet the output on the other end of the equation is feet. And the equation is SIMPLE, as in in your head easy.

The formula is the target height x 1,000 then divide that by the number of dots the target covers on the reticle.

Take a 2 yard tall person. Multiply that by 1,000 giving you 2,000. Then lay the reticle over the target. Say 4 dots cover the target. So you divide 2,000 by 4 and you get 500 yards as the distance to the target. Or if the same target only covers 3 dots then the target would be 666 yards.

Or a deer with a .5 yard tall chest cavity. multiply that by 1,000 giving you 500. And if 2 dots cover the chest cavity then the deer is 250 yards away.

The only real variable is knowing how tall the target measurement is.

Easy, easy math unlike MOA reticle.

Dolomite

Thanks, this is very informative, could we sticky this somewhere?

[Jonnin]

Dolo, is it true that on mil-dot, the power of the scope affects the zero? Or is everything plugged in to the turrets and hold it square zero and pull the trigger?

I'm just trying to figure out whats the best reticle for hunting and hunting for long range since the 300rum has the capability.

not dolo of course but the turrets and the mil dot are not related 100% (they work together in some scopes though). The mil dot is only the reticle, a series of tiny dots that make up the crosshair, and that alone is sufficient for many needs (one of my mil dots has no turret, just windage and elevation adjustments). On top of what he said about using the dots to determine the distance, you USE the distance with your ballistics for your caliber and rifle. Then you can aim a little high or low to adjust for the distance. For example my 223 AR is the one with no turret. If I want to hit at 200 yards (it is zeroed at 50), I have to adjust for elevation manually by aiming (low, I think, but I get that confused on paper sometimes). You can use the dots in the reticle to aim with, to 'kentucky' sight for wind and elevation, or you can use the true crosshair and an approximate adjustment. The mil dots are supposed to provide a 1 dot = 1 inch at 100 type ratio to help you adjust but in an adjustable power scope this is not always correct due to issues with the magnification. I think on mine, the dots are 1 mil at max power, but at lower powers, they are not 1 mil, understand?

Now with a turret system that is correct for the caliber, you can just dial in the approximate yardage and aim it dead on; it compensates for the elevation automatically. My wife's .22 has this, a caliber specific turret system (even covers several bullet weights) and while its not as good as zeroing the scope for the specific distance, its very very good. Other turret systems are not caliber specific and you have to memorize how many clicks you need for your setup (or, really, you memorize that one click = X inches at 100 and similar to the above simple math, estimate the clicks, make your adjustment, and aim dead on).

What exactly do you NEED? As most folks note, most shots in this area are under 200 yards, and most highpower rifles shoot so flat at those ranges that you need minimal adjustment. The vitals of a deer are big enough that if you missed my 1/4 an inch it you still did just fine. All this about elevation, mil dots and fancy tools is for longer range shots than I would expect on a hunting rifle?

[FJCrusing]

Just purchased the Leupold VX-2 3-9x40mm, Custom Dial, Duplex Reticle for my 308. Was $349 on opticsplanet.com and they were running $30 off any purchase of $300 or more. No sales tax and free shipping also. Definitely compare any scope you are looking at to the prices on opticsplanet.com. Very good prices and selection.

Edited October 5, 2012 by FJCrusing

[Dolomite_supafly]

Actually a MIL is 3.6" at 100 yards, not 1". And each round dot in a standard MILDOT reticle is .20 MIL or .72" at 100 yards. And all this is with a second focal plane scope on the correct magnification setting. In a second focal plane scope the image changes but the reticle stays the same. On a first focal plane scope magnification changes also apply to the reticle so the reticle stays the same relative to the magnified image..

MOA might be what you are thinking about because it is close to 1" at 1.047" at 100 yards.

Dolomite

[vujade]

I just bought an SWFA SS scope and it's a great deal for $300. Rated for up to 50 cal. It's the new one with the mil-quad reticle. Has mil turrets to match the mil reticle for easy adjustments.

Consider the one with the side focus knob for easier adjustments without having to look at the top of the scope.

I am very happy with mine so far.

I like my SWFA SS scope also. I bought it used for $100. (so you can find some deals there) It feels robust and like it can handle abuse. The parallax setting/adjustment didn't match but it otherwise works. 10x is enough for me.

My 'nicer' scope is a Nikon Buckmaster and I love it. It's a variable 4-14x.

Both are clear as clear.

[IggyBcool]

Picking up a Nikon Monarch 4x16 next week in mil dot. I guess I'll just download the spot-on app to my Iphone and play around with it.

[Jonnin]

Actually a MIL is 3.6" at 100 yards, not 1". And each round dot in a standard MILDOT reticle is .20 MIL or .72" at 100 yards. And all this is with a second focal plane scope on the correct magnification setting. In a second focal plane scope the image changes but the reticle stays the same. On a first focal plane scope magnification changes also apply to the reticle so the reticle stays the same relative to the magnified image..

MOA might be what you are thinking about because it is close to 1" at 1.047" at 100 yards.

Dolomite

I knew you would know.

I was calling the .72 approximately 1 inch actually, mixing up an actual mil & a mildot a bit. I can barely use the thing, and have about given up; I cannot focus on the dots with my eyes as doing so blurs the target beyond use. Just can't seem to see both the dots and the target at the same time, but my eyes are not very good.