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Knife Sharpeners - Recommend?


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I've had this dusty, beat up old Arkansas Tri-Hone bouncing around my garage and workshop for the better part of my life. I bought it when I was about 10 years old when I bought the case knife I still carry and my uncle taught me how to use it. Since then, I've made, bought or acquired about a thousand knives and this old thing has sharpened them all - poorly. It's not the stone, I'm sure. I am just really awful at keeping the correct angle of the knife to the stone so it never winds up with a consistent edge. I've come to grips with that. Once upon a time it looked just like this one:

VC128189l.jpg

Now the wood is all cracked and gray, the base is missing and that little plastic angle guide is long, long gone. And worse yet - the stones are all sway-backed and loaded with oil residue, iron filings and whatever else it's picked up over the past 20 years. I've come to grips with the fact that it's time to get something new. So I picked up a Smith's stone thinking metal must be better, right?

10077915.jpg?is=500,500

But see my previous comment about angles. In fairness, this stone did a GREAT job sharpening all my chisels - including the oddly shaped one I use to punch the little lines onto the leaf-shaped things I make as decoration for fireplace tools, hanging hooks, etc. And did a swell job of squaring off said leaf-y tool's edge when I determined that sharp wasn't better. But I just can't get an edge on a knife with it for the life of me. I started to blame the knife (an in-expensive kitchen knife) but when I tried another (an older Gerber that I've had for years and had great luck sharpening to hair-shaving sharpness in the past on the tri-hone) I came to the determination that the problem is either me or the stone. In either case, something's got to change.

At Academy this past weekend picking up some 9mm for this weekend's range trip I saw some of these on the sale rack:

Does anyone have any experience with these Lansky sharpening systems? I'm loathe to pay $30 for a sharpener when I can get a new Tri-hone for that - but even with the Tri-hone my skill was never great. Does the metal guide and clamp system actually help or is it just a gimmick? There was a little $7 stand that the whole thing mounts on - I suppose that's a must for a consistent edge?

Anybody have any other thoughts on bargian-priced sharpening systems that work? This would primarily be for pocket knives and the occasional work or camp knife but if I could use it to sharpen the odd knife or chisel that comes out of the shop, more's the better.

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I bought a Smith branded knockoff of the Lansky system and while it's not as sturdy, it works well. The reason I like it is that I get a perfectly consistent edge every time. Maybe I don't have a steady enough hand to use the traditional stones, who knows? I do know that *I* cannot get a sharper edge than with the rods and guides with any other system.

http://www.smithspro...sp?id=34&cid=21 $20 at Walmart.

Edited by BigK
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I don't sharpen my knives nearly as often, anymore, but when I was a teen (and had nothing better to do) I used to keep every knife in the house pretty much razor sharp. My pocket knives, my fixed blade knives, mom's kitchen knives - everything. All I ever used were stones and a piece of scrap leather here or there. I'm honestly not as good at sharpening them now as I was back then. I think part of that is the fact that back then I was dealing with more carbon steel whereas now it is more stainless that I am trying to sharpen. I am also admittedly out of practice. However, one thing I discovered early on and that holds true to this day is that I can not sharpen a knife with a stone using the method that is generally recommended. Most times I see knife sharpening instructions, etc. they say to draw the edge of the knife toward the stone edge-first as if you are trying to slice off a thin slice of the stone. I'll ruin an edge every time if I try that. Instead, I draw the blade in the opposite direction with the edge trailing the rest of the blade. For some reason I seem to be able to get the angle right using that method and can generally get at least a decent edge on most any blade.

Something else I have noticed is that, for the most part, I don't work too well with factory edges. I pretty much have to - well, we always called it pulling the edge down, meaning the obvious, factory edge goes away and is replaced by a more gradual edge with what I can only think to describe as a more smooth, rounded bevel to it. I've never tried that with a flat-ground edge, though.

The big exception to this is filet knives. For those, I just use those cheapo sharpeners that have two, small pieces of ceramic in a plastic piece. I like the ones that are double-sided with both a rough and smoother set of ceramic rods. They help make getting the correct angle easier. Come to think of it, while I don't think they do much for a knife that is well and truly dull, I think those things work pretty well for maintaining an edge on pretty much any blade that isn't too thick to go into them. These are the things I am talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Ceramic-Sharpener-Two-Stage/dp/B000EYY9K4

Edited by JAB
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http://www.gatcosharpeners.com/sharpeners.mgi

Knife sharpening is an art and individuals disagree as to what is the best. Experts disagree! I can tell you that after over 30 years of using a knife for work, this Gatco is among the best. It really doesn't matter how you do it, but always keep your knife as sharp as possible. I have people at work who bring their knives to me to sharpen. BUT, there is a guy who uses a simple Arkanas stone, who can sharpen a knife better than I ever could.

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Well, I'm a little lazy and don't want to spend allot of time sharpening all the knives. I use a cheapo electric knife sharpener that is just adequate. When the wife moans and groans about her cutting knives being dull, I spend about 5 minutes sharpening a dozen kitchen knives.

I use to take pride in putting an edge on a hunting knife with an Arkansas stone you could shave with. Then I got old and time is precious before the rigor mortis set in and the long dirt nap.

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That's fine for a Frost knife or a kitchen knife but that thing has carbide blades in it. It literally shaves metal off every time you use it. It will leave chatter marks that would ruin a good blade. I use one all the time for cheap crap knives. Never would I let it touch my Spyderco.

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For my birthday a few years back, my wife bought me a sharpener that I'd consider way too expensive. It's a Chef's Choice sharpener by EdgeCraft.

It has magnets that keep the blade at the proper angle and the abrasive surfaces vibrate against the blade. It does a great job on my kitchen knives, but the angle is only good for kitchen knives.

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I admit that in the past I have used the guys at SMKW to sharpen some of my knives. Then I learned to do it myself. A lot of times, if I don't have anything to do in the evenings and there's nothing to watch on the tube, I will set and sharpen a knife or two. I use a old set called a LeRoy. It must be about 30 years old. It looks like a Lansky. But I don't use the angle clamp. I use eye ball it and use the stones. Seems to do just fine. When I'm done, I usually have half the hair on my left arm gone along with some leg hair too. And there is a small pile of paper shavings on the floor next to my recliner. I am also learning to convex with an old mouse pad and fine grit sandpaper, which I get at the auto parts store. I am not a master of that yet.

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I am also learning to convex with an old mouse pad and fine grit sandpaper, which I get at the auto parts store. I am not a master of that yet.

Yeah, I think that putting a convex (secondary) grind on a blade is what I was referring to earlier when I was talking about 'pulling down' the edge. I just didn't know the proper terminology so thanks for mentioning that. I would be interested to hear the method for doing that with the mouse pad and sandpaper.

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I use 5 or 6 whetstones, old school I guess. The top one is surgical finisher, the low one is so rough it is only for damaged items (think an abused machete). The top 3 are usually all I need on a pocket knife. I really like arkansas type stones and strongly dislike diamond stones (most diamond can remove a lot of metal in a hurry, which is usually bad).

Once I can shave the hair off my arm with it, its good enough for me and I stop there.

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Yeah, I think that putting a convex (secondary) grind on a blade is what I was referring to earlier when I was talking about 'pulling down' the edge. I just didn't know the proper terminology so thanks for mentioning that. I would be interested to hear the method for doing that with the mouse pad and sandpaper.

Hey JAB, I used this Youtube video to learn how to convex. [media=]

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If you've heard of Turley Knives, this is the guy that makes them.

Edited by Moped
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  • 2 months later...

I just bought the Grizzly Razor Sharp System a couple of weeks ago and I love it. It was only $35.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Razor-Sharp-System/G5937

The two wheels mount on a 6" bench grinder. One wheel has an abrasive grit. The other wheel is used with white rouge. I sharpened about 15 knives to razor sharp in about 10 minutes.

We process our own chickens, turkeys, etc. and I have never had a very efficient knife sharpening system that I was happy with. I did okay with diamond hones, etc. but it slowed me down on processing day to take a break and sharpen knives. I am incredibly happy with the Grizzly system and I wish I had bought it years ago.

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I'll have to take a look at that Grizzly in the future. I had something similar back in college that got left at the Forge by some folks that came up one weekend. I wondered where they got it - and I still wonder to this day where it went! haha!

I bought the Lansky system and haven't looked back, though. I've even used it to sharpen my straight razor. I couldn't get an edge on a knife to save my life before - now I actually enjoy it. Good system - thanks for the recommendations all!

- V

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Yeah, I think that putting a convex (secondary) grind on a blade is what I was referring to earlier when I was talking about 'pulling down' the edge. I just didn't know the proper terminology so thanks for mentioning that. I would be interested to hear the method for doing that with the mouse pad and sandpaper.

+1 on convexing. I think I have tried every system available. I learned how to use the sandpaper and mouse pad and my knives have never been sharper. If I have several blades or a new knife to do, I use my little 1x30 sander and 20, 15 and 9 micron belts that I got from Lee Valley. Hit 'em on a leather strop and start shaving. After that just have to touch them up on a strop unless they get really dull or a nick.

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