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EDCing Fixed Blades


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Yeah, not really thinking about self defense here either. Mostly slaying boxes and vivisecting apples. I recognize that knives can be used in a last ditch, everyone's getting cut, self defense situation... but I don't foresee, or train to that. I think at this point were I to skin a knife in a fight I'd probably instantly be in over my head. I just wanna be like Daniel Boone, and have a cool knife on my belt.

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Randy,

You have my apologies as I was not veiwing this from a self defense situation, God forbid if I ever have to use a weapon in self defense however it will be a firearm and not a knive as my first choice,

And no I have never had to draw a knife when I was punched, every time I have been, I have punched back and the fight never escalated to the point I would need a knife.

Unfortunately in the countries that I work in I can not carry any knife no matter what blade length, fixed or folding so for the most part in my situation whenever I can carry any weapon it is a concealed hand gun so you and I have two totally different views on what a carry knife should be

No worries.And no apologies necessary. Punching back is great and works most of the time. The problem is that when it is more than 1 assailant. Then you ARE in a lethal force situation that can go badly quickly. Especially if it is a 2 on 1 and it goes to the ground....

I'm not suggesting you stab people that just punch you....just like you can't just shoot people who punch you (unless there are circumstances that would make lethal force necessary). I have better than average Hand to Hand skills. But if 2 guys get a hold of you and it goes to the ground then you are in a BAD situation. Here is where the short knife makes getting out of that situation a lot easier.

I carry a gun too. They work better at distance. But guns can be problematic when the BG at contact distance and is grappling with you. It is FAR easier for him to disarm a gun than a knife. The knife helps open the door to get out and then access your gun.

I look at everything from a risk management standpoint. That is a product of experience and training. So that is my starting point in the discussion. I also get it that not everyone else does or is even interested in that. So everyone is free to make their own choices.

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I don't have any training with a knife as a weapon. Beyond the possibility of a last ditch, better than harsh language scenario such a use isn't very likely, for me (which isn't to say that I never carry a knife with that last ditch scenario in mind.) However, for me, there are still reasons a fixed blade is preferable to a pocket knife, sometimes, for various reasons.

One is strength. I have actually had the blades of pocket knives get 'loose' (as in side-to-side play) in the handle over time just from the pressure from sharpenening them on a whet rock. My feeling is that, no matter how well a folder is made, that pivot point is always going to be a potential 'weak point'. Fixed blades don't have that, particular weak point.

One is comfort. Unlike folders, the handle on a fixed blade doesn't have to be a compromise between being a handle and being a place to hold/hide/cover/protect the blade when folded. Therefore, it can be designed solely as a secure, comfortable grip. Largely because of this, I often find a fixed blade easier to 'work with'.

One is safety. Years ago, while trying to open a cardboard tube, I had a non-locking pocket knife close on my fingers. I like to keep my knives sharp and back then (in my teens) I kept them razor sharp as I had little else to do with my time. It sliced the knuckle of my right, middle finger down to the bone (literally - I could see the bone of my knuckle.) Fixed blade knives don't close on your hand/fingers (of course, a locking blade folder is pretty secure but the nature of the fixed blade means there is no chance of a lock failing, etc. - it can't close on your hand.) Further, a fixed blade can have a bolster or even a true guard to prevent hands slick with sweat or other fluids from slipping onto the blade.

Ease of access does figure in. Although not as much a factor with the availability of one hand opening/assisted opening folders that clip onto the pocket, I still find a fixed blade easier to access in some situations. Fishing is a good example - if a fish swallows the hook and I can't get it out then cutting the line is the next, best option. Even if I plan to keep/eat the fish I don't like to cause it the distress of ripping a hook out of its guts. I find a fixed blade easier to use when standing in a stream, trying to juggle a squirming trout and my fishing rod with one hand while deploying the knife with the other. I also generally find a fixed blade easier to access/deploy when in a seated position (that is where a fixed blade neck knife really shines.)

In my daily life, a fixed blade in a belt sheath would be frowned upon by my employer. When not at work, I carry a firearm and my method for carry is strong side OWB which doesn't leave much room for a knife sheath. Still, I have taken to more or less EDCing a neck knife - in addition to a pocket knife or two - because there are times when I want a fixed blade. I might eventually have to look into a fixed blade for weak-side, horizontal carry for when I am not at work but for now I think I like the neck knives better.

Edited by JAB
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I think I'm gonna to look at one of the Ka-bar TDI's now...anyone bother making their own sheaths for them?

I find kydex rubbing my butt to be a little bothersome :) I'm thinking a leather/kydex combo ALA a Crossbreed holster.

Man...I need to suggest that to Mark on the xdtalk boards...might be on to something.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I carry fixed blades for work and EDC person use. I know the value of a good folder but choose to trust the reliability of a full tang small fixed blade knife for every day cutting task and self defense. As I am not allowed to carry a firearm at work and my duties require me to to drive all over west TN in the wee hours of the night, a good quality knife and a Smith & Wesson tactical pen are my only line of defense. I have had folding knives close on my fingers before and lets face it, a well made fixed blade knife with a good handle thats easy to grip is going to be the best to penitrate outer wear and get to the soft tissue. Now this is just my opinion but when it is my life on the line, my opinion is the only one that matters. As for my knife of choice, it is Boker.

Edited by Mykltn
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For those that do EDC a fixed blade. Do you ever carry while wearing your Sunday best, i.e. button up shirt tucked in and possibly (gasp) a tie? If so how? Does anyone have a good setup for this type of dress?

When I was in college I got it into my head I was going to be a famous knifemaker and started making my own knives. Some came out really great, and those I'd have my "leather guy" make some decent leather made up for it to showcase my work. Those "good ones" I'd wear everywhere - even in my Sunday best. I got the fewest weird looks when the knife was more fully contained in the leather (maybe just a few inches of the handle actually uncovered) hanging horizontally at about 4 o'clock on my strong side. I always *felt* classier when the leather on the knife matched the leather of my belt, too.

I haven't made a knife in ages and I prefer to carry a folder now for the same reasons that I prefer to conceal my handgun when I carry it, but I do occasionally carry one of my more fancy handled ones to parties.

Edited by Viracnis
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Don't get too hung up on how your carry EDC fixed blade is made. Pakistani 55 gal drum steel will cut pretty good if tempereed and sharpened well enough. It is more about how the knife is carried and how it flows into the hand than the actual material of blade and handle. If you arre riding a horse a cross draw fixed blade may work better for you. If you are a flatlander and walker like I am then a free swinging Canadian survival knife by Grohman will suffice for 98% of the time. http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/r1s.html

I used to make sheaths for a custom knife maker and folks think too hard on this subject and spend too much money on knives. A decent Ka Bar and Swiss Army pocket knive will likely cut everything that ever needs cutting.

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Yes, but if open carry, don't be totally surprised if you get checked out by a LEO now and then, depending on where you are. And remember, that "blade length" is almost assuredly gonna be measured from handle to tip, not just sharpened part.

- OS

Always thought the 4" maximum referred to the length of blade, not from handle to tip.

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Always thought the 4" maximum referred to the length of blade, not from handle to tip.

That is the "blade". The statute doesn't say "sharpened part of blade" or "sharp edge" or "cutting edge" or some such.

AFAIK, no state with a length law has such a definition. England does, however.

- OS

Edited by OhShoot
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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest ThePunisher

Bought my first Benchmade knife- Bone Collector skinner 1500S D2 today. Blade is barely less than 4 inches and very light weight. I think I'm gonna like this. Also got to see a bunch of Benchmade auto's, and got me really interested in getting one. The one I liked was $212.00 but was not ready to spend that just yet. Greens Military and Police in Donelson has really large selection of knives.

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  • 2 months later...

greens in expensive too... for the average joe going in and buying something...they service alot of accounts around like DCSO Metro and probably several other departments... hints the high prices...

[url="http://www.gpknives.com/bokerplusrambler.html"]http://www.knifeworks.com/bokerplusramblerfixedbladeknife.aspx[/url]

looks like a nice knife to me :) think im getting one for that price what the heck...

Edited by carter
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[quote name='graycrait' timestamp='1345172933' post='801762']
Don't get too hung up on how your carry EDC fixed blade is made. Pakistani 55 gal drum steel will cut pretty good if tempereed and sharpened well enough. It is more about how the knife is carried and how it flows into the hand than the actual material of blade and handle.
[/quote]

I know this is an older post, but this is NOT true. Blade steel, hardening and tempering are the difference in junk and a good knife. Even if your cutting cardboard, a good high carbon steel will cut cardboard easier and longer than a bad one. Its all about edge retention. I can make a butter knife shave for about 3 swipes. A cheap knife, or an improperly tempered knife will never work cut as cleanly, or as well as a good one. And considering you can get a good production or even custom knife for a decent price, save your money and buy one. Btw only good steel like high carbon 1084, 1095, 5160, Damascus, or some of the better cutlery grade stainless can be hardened and tempered. Mild steel like barrels as you mentioned can not be hardened enough to be used as a knife, it will not hold an edge. Just my two cents, most of it from my experiences as a blacksmith and knife maker
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I think both Spots and graycrait have points. The good news is if they wear hats no one will know...

Seriously though, I have had cheap $6 gas station knifes that performed quite admirably for many months or even years doing repetitive tasks such as cutting cardboard for 4 hours a day every other day and done it well. By the same token just because they served the purpose does not mean that they were the best tool for the job.

A buddy of mine does heavy equipment operating and is a grade checker. He can wear out most knifes in months if not weeks. He finally wizened up and stuck a mini kabar on his belt and has had good results with that for about a year.

I think it depends more on how and how often you use a knife that it will or will not work well for you than what it's made out of. I could use a $6 cheap onto break down 30,000-40,000 boxes when I don't care how nice the cuts are just so long as the boxes flatten out to fit in the trash.
To that end I can and have used the blunt side of a bic lighter to tear down boxes, coworkers laughed but hey, you can't argue with results.
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By all means, Im not saying a cheap knife doesn't have its place. I was more correcting the "properly tempered" comment because mild can't be hardened, or therefore tempered by its nature. When most people ask me for a good work knife for stripping wire, cutting boxes, etc etc. I point them towards the folding box cutters. When it dulls throw the blade away. It doesn't have to stay sharp for long, or be tempered against breaking, edge roll, etc. But if I planned to get a knife that could be used for cutting wood, leather, bone, meat, and anything else, I'd be looking for a well made, high carbon knife. It can be resharpened easily with a medium Arkansas rock, will hold an edge much longer than most cheapo's, and if you ever have to use it in an emergency it will hold up well beyond that of any $6-$10 el cheapo special. Case in point are the small 5160 utility knives I just made. Cheap, they will stay sharp for a long while, and if pressed I wouldnt hesitate to baton or even hammer them through oak to get a fire going, skin game, carve out a bone arrowhead, and take general abuse, as well as being reliable, concealable, and staying sharp. All attributes that can make a big difference in everything from work, to survival, to last ditch self defense.
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