Optic for Rem 700

[Guest BillOfRightsFan]

Which would you pick: Trijicon Accupoint 3-9 or Burris Eliminator with laser range finder built in -- assuming price was either similar or not a consideration.

As much as I love tech, I wonder if the Eliminator would make me a worse shooter. Thoughtful advice always welcome!

[alwaysonjohn]

if you are going for an optic, why not get something made for long range. I'm saving for either the http://www.laruetactical.com/nightforce-35-15x50-mlr-hs-zs-01-mil-rad-and-lt104-30-qd-scope-mount or the http://www.laruetactical.com/nightforce-55-22x50-npr-1-w-moa-hs-zs-and-lt104-30

the quick detach will allow me to switch between my two 700s. if you get the npr-1 then a 20moa rail would make it even sweeter. as for laser range finders, isn't that what a spotter is for? Plus most ranges will tell you how far out you are. Just my two cents.

[Guest SpicyMchaggis]

More importantly, what's this rifle for?

[Guest HCRoadie]

as for laser range finders, isn't that what a spotter is for?

You've got a spotter?

[alwaysonjohn]

i've got my buddies that like to remind me how far off I am and in what direction. lol.

[DaveTN]

I love technology, but technology becomes cheap once it is out there. The Burris is loaded with it. But it’s still an optical scope and the technology is depenpendent on the optics quality. It is in the price range of NightForce or Leupold, is the optics in the quality range of those? I would love to play with this scope, but I wouldn’t spend $1500 on it.

The Trijicon has no technology and is not a fair comparison. At $600 there are plenty of proven performers to choose from.

[Dolomite_supafly]

I would buy a decent mildot scope. You can range the target almost as easily with a mildot as with an electronic method.

They are less likely to fail than any electronic optic. The best part about the mildot is it requires no batteries and the math can be done in your head. Do not buy into the ballistic drop reticles. They are calibrated for a particular bullet at a particular velocity. If your load doesn't match then the reticle is useless.

Chronograph the most accurate load in your rifle. Once you have the velocity you can work up drop tables for various distances. Then you use the mildot reticle to determine distance to the target then dial in the drop according to your chart. I made a chart that fit inside my Butler Creek objective lens cover. When I pop open the objective lens cover open everything I need to make hits with my 223 out to 600 yards is right there.

I would find the magnification you think you are going to need then buy a first focal plane mildot scope. Most people think they need a lot of magnification but you don't unless you are a long range target shooter. Too much magnification can actually hinder your shooting ability. The reason is it also magnifies such things as your heartbeat or other normal "wobbles'. This often leads to you jerking the trigger at the moment when you think the reticle is stabile. And we all know what jerking the trigger can do to your accuracy. Don't belive me, try shooting a few groups when you can see your heartbeat in the scope. Then turn your magnification down and fire some more groups. I have personally found that my groups shrink substantially when I do this.

I also have a ballistic program on my Iphone that is the greatest thing I have found for long range shooting. It makes on the fly corrections for weather changes. It also changes based on whether your are firing uphill or downhill. It also corrects for the earth's rotation when firing north to south, the opposite or anywhere in between. And just so you know the earth rotates 1.5"-2" in the time it takes the average bullet to reach 1,000 yards. It also allows you to change the distance to the target instantly, giving you the correct hold over in whatever measurement you want. It also tells you cahnges for wind based on speed. It has nearly every factory load in its library or you can inpput your own based on your own needs. I used it for my 7.62x25 Tokarev loads shooting subsonic 180 grain bullets. Using the program I can shoot subsonic 22's and get first round hits at anything up to 300 yards 9 out of 10 times on man sized steel targets providing I am reading the wind correctly. 200 yard shots are so easy it becomes boring. But even without this technology I can still duplicate it with my cheat sheet and a mildot reticle. I learned the mechincal method then embraced an easier way tog et to the same end.

We have embraced technology, which is a good thing, but far too many people rely on it without first learning more basic methods.

Dolomite

[Caster]

I like Nikon. To me, they're like the bottom end of the top shelf. The easiest for average workin' folk like me to afford. I have three and I have been impressed with all of them.

The trijicon I wasn't too impressed with.

Edited May 20, 2012 by Caster

[robin48]

I like Nikon. To me, they're like the bottom end of the top shelf. The easiest for average workin' folk like me to afford. I have three and I have been impressed with all of them.

The trijicon I wasn't too impressed with.

+1

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[trevorst]

I agree for the money Nikon glass is tough to beat, I have 2 on my deer rifles and they have been perfect. I have had great luck with Burris but then again all of my Burris stuff is 15+ years old and quality may have dropped off since that time. For my long range guns I have Leupold (the youngest of which is a 4.5x14 with tac turrets from the mid 90s).

[RichardR]

While the Burris Eliminator looks interesting, I really don't see any advantage in using it over a regular/standard mil-dot type recticle.

[Guest HCRoadie]

My Rem 700 in .223 with a Bushnell. I know it is not what you are looking at but...

Factory ammo, 5 rounds, 100yrds, and I suck at this stuff

Edited May 22, 2012 by HCRoadie

[Guest BillOfRightsFan]

I am looking to learn to shoot long distance. I like the science behind long distance shooting and the many variables a good shooter has to consider. It's a fantastic science and an intellectual sport. The Remington 700 seemed like a great choice and I found one locally. It was that or the Savage 10FP series.

I opted for the Trijicon because of their extensive combat experience. The scope is perfect for the ranges I expect to be shooting at in the next few years. I'll upgrade to the Mt. Polomar Telescope when I get good at shooting in the 600-800 yard range.

I looked at the Burris. One locally was $925 and the quality of the optics is fantastic. The push to spot feature was also incredibly cool and the BDC was absolutely fantastic. It was Luke Skywalker's binoculars in real life. BUT - I'm trying to learn to shoot long distance. That means I need to make mistakes and correct them. If the electronics fail all you have is a telescope because there are no visible BDC tick marks on the cross hairs. If I were shooting game at long distance and desired that ethical shot - no problem, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. It's a fantastic scope. But I'm shooting paper targets so it's not such a big deal.

As usual, the advice here was awesome. TGO members are amazing. I'll let you know how gun works out once I've got it all set up! It might be ready today - had to wait for the right scope rings to come in. I got ammo today from BulkAmmo.com and that leaves me with other questions. On Friday the muzzle brake I ordered comes in. I'll post more on that as well.