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.45 loads won't chamber


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Posted (edited)

<p>So I loaded some .45 last night. Approximately 15 rounds. I measured everything. COL 1.238, mouth .473The bullets drop in my barrel about 3/4 of the way. I cannot push them the rest of the way in. Should I crimp more? I crimped in a 4th step and tried to do as little as possible as per others instructions. Did I just not quite get enough bell out?Or did I not get the whole case resized properly? I followed the instructions but may need to revisit the die setup to be sure.

Edited by Lumber_Jack
Posted

Lee factory crimp die will solve that for you.

Only, a warning with cast bullets. The Lee FCD can [and a lot of times WILL] size your bullet down so before you load a bunch of cast bullets, load one, run it through the FCD and then pull it and measure it again. For my cast 9mm loads I find that not sizing the bullet at all, then running them through my FCD will size them to .3555-.356 so thats a double bonus. YMMV. If you're loading a bullet with a copper condom on it, nevermind :cool:

Posted
  On 5/1/2012 at 12:23 AM, JeffsSig said:
What crimping die are you using?

isnt 1.238 a bit long?

Max is 1.278 according to Hornady

I'm using the one that came in my Lee Carbide full die set (4 dies)

Posted

So after some reading apparently .473 won't chamber in most guns even though that's what's listed in the manual. So through the crimp again and see if I can get it around .470 and try again.

Thoughts?

Posted

Take the decapping pin out and run the cartridge through the sizing die slowly... that should solve it.

Your crimp die is the problem... its not taking the bell completely out

Posted
  On 5/1/2012 at 1:01 AM, William_Munny said:

Take the decapping pin out and run the cartridge through the sizing die slowly... that should solve it.

Your crimp die is the problem... its not taking the bell completely out

That will certainly size your bullet down.

Posted
  On 5/1/2012 at 12:53 AM, Lumber_Jack said:

So after some reading apparently .473 won't chamber in most guns even though that's what's listed in the manual. So through the crimp again and see if I can get it around .470 and try again.

Thoughts?

I have better luck at .469

Posted

If you want, give me a call.

Sounds like your seater die needs screwed in a bit more. No need for a separate die to crimp the loads.

Also, do not run them through a sizer again. The die squeezes the brass which in turn squeezes the bullet then the brass springs back some. This leaves the bullet undersized and it will wobble in the case if not completely fall out. I know because I tried it to fix a problem just like yours.

Dolomite

Posted
  On 5/1/2012 at 10:46 AM, Dolomite_supafly said:
If you want, give me a call.

Sounds like your seater die needs screwed in a bit more. No need for a separate die to crimp the loads.

Also, do not run them through a sizer again. The die squeezes the brass which in turn squeezes the bullet then the brass springs back some. This leaves the bullet undersized and it will wobble in the case if not completely fall out. I know because I tried it to fix a problem just like yours.

Dolomite

Thanks G, I'm out of town for work this week but I'm gonna try to sort this out on Saturday. I'll give you a call if I can't figure it out.

Posted
  On 5/1/2012 at 1:06 AM, Raoul said:

I have better luck at .469

Thanks for this one. I'm getting ready to start loading .45 with the Lee 4 die set.

Posted
  On 5/1/2012 at 1:42 PM, mikegideon said:

Thanks for this one. I'm getting ready to start loading .45 with the Lee 4 die set.

Pay attention to your bullet. I usually do lead and since the sizes vary I sometimes have to play with it. It's an extra step, but well worth it.

Guest TresOsos
Posted (edited)

The Lee Factory Crimp Die in 45 ACP is simply a taper crimp die.

Set your Taper crimp die to crimp to a min of .470 and .470 to .468 should work just fine.

If you want measure some factory rounds you'll find most are crimped to around .470

If your loading FMJ OAL from 1.270 to 1.250 is good.

If loading 200 LSWC anywhere from 1.245 to 1.255 is good and I have loaded them even longer out to 1.265 without issues.

Edited by TresOsos
Guest canebreaker
Posted

You know, I started reloading in 1991. I didn't have a computer/internet, so no one at ask these questions. Where the heck did I screw up? Get back in the book and read where I screwed up. If it doesn't look or act right the first time, who am I going to ask a stewpit question to.

38 spl. is what I started with. That round is to long, that round maybe to short, that crimp maybe to tight, that one to loose. I worked with it until it was right.

I'm getting past the bulging brass of 357s that won't chamber. I think I figured what I was doing wrong there. I don't think I had to question anyone on that. I've been into 9mm for about 7 months. Things are looking good there. 40 sw supplies will arrive friday some a new start there.

I have got to the point, to H--- with it. Pulled bullets, decapped new primers and started over. You don't get it the first time, start anew. Learn it the hard way.

Posted
  On 5/3/2012 at 3:11 AM, canebreaker said:

You know, I started reloading in 1991. I didn't have a computer/internet, so no one at ask these questions. Where the heck did I screw up? Get back in the book and read where I screwed up. If it doesn't look or act right the first time, who am I going to ask a stewpit question to.

38 spl. is what I started with. That round is to long, that round maybe to short, that crimp maybe to tight, that one to loose. I worked with it until it was right.

I'm getting past the bulging brass of 357s that won't chamber. I think I figured what I was doing wrong there. I don't think I had to question anyone on that. I've been into 9mm for about 7 months. Things are looking good there. 40 sw supplies will arrive friday some a new start there.

I have got to the point, to H--- with it. Pulled bullets, decapped new primers and started over. You don't get it the first time, start anew. Learn it the hard way.

But then we would all miss the idle rants of thread trolling idiots like yourself. . what am I saying. . your absolutely right. . you should get off this thread. . and this forum and spend the rest of your days in the glory of self education. I mean why would someone as self made as yourself waste your time trolling through the ramblings of us lesser beings who come to these forums to share common interests and information and if we need any help with being creepy we'll come look you up. ..gee-whiz what a complete douche. .sorry guys but this waste of DNA has got to go. .

Posted
  On 5/3/2012 at 3:11 AM, canebreaker said:
You know, I started reloading in 1991. I didn't have a computer/internet, so no one at ask these questions. Where the heck did I screw up? Get back in the book and read where I screwed up. If it doesn't look or act right the first time, who am I going to ask a stewpit question to.

38 spl. is what I started with. That round is to long, that round maybe to short, that crimp maybe to tight, that one to loose. I worked with it until it was right.

I'm getting past the bulging brass of 357s that won't chamber. I think I figured what I was doing wrong there. I don't think I had to question anyone on that. I've been into 9mm for about 7 months. Things are looking good there. 40 sw supplies will arrive friday some a new start there.

I have got to the point, to H--- with it. Pulled bullets, decapped new primers and started over. You don't get it the first time, start anew. Learn it the hard way.

This doesn't make your better, it makes you less efficient. What took you a month to figure out, I figured out in an hour by asking a 'stewpit' question.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 5/3/2012 at 9:14 AM, Lumber_Jack said:

This doesn't make your better, it makes you less efficient. What took you a month to figure out, I figured out in an hour by asking a 'stewpit' question.

Not to mention, a mistake in reloading has the potential to be rather dangerous. It makes much more sense to ask questions then to blow something up. The purpose of the forum is to exchange information for the benefit of the community. If you can learn how to do something more safely and more efficiently, it's a good thing.

Posted
  On 5/3/2012 at 3:11 AM, canebreaker said:

You know, I started reloading in 1991. I didn't have a computer/internet, so no one at ask these questions. Where the heck did I screw up? Get back in the book and read where I screwed up. If it doesn't look or act right the first time, who am I going to ask a stewpit question to.... Learn it the hard way.

I started reloading in 1978 and there were few resources available to learn from. We're fortunate to have the internet and manuals available today.

  • Like 1
Guest TresOsos
Posted (edited)

I stated reloading about the same time Canebreaker did, I think I read 3 manuals before I even ordered my press or first componet.

And when I did start loading I had a couple of good friends that reloaded, I did not sit and suffer in silence then if things didn't work

right. We didn't have the internet but we had phones and I did maie several calls and asked for advice. The internet just makes it easier to

get some help and advice, now if only some people would take it and quit trying to reinvent the wheel.

Edited by TresOsos
Posted
  On 5/5/2012 at 3:00 PM, mikegideon said:
Thanks LJ! You probably just saved me some grief. I have one of these parked in my wish list at Midway. I plan to order it later today...

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/744135/egw-4-hole-chamber-checker-max-cartridge-cage-9mm-luger-38-super-40-s-and-w-45-acp?cm_vc=wishList

Glad you clould learn something as well. I figured how to crimp and seat in the same step with the seater die. It just took some adjusting the die depth and seater depth. Now they come out bullet seated to 1.270 crimped .470.

Case gauge is definite money well spent.

Posted

I'm going to start out by not doing any crimp with the seater die, and try to do it all with the factory crimp die. Since the Factory crimp die is also a sizing die, it could wind up just working the brass more if it has to straighten a bullet. I bought a dedicated turret press for pistol loading, so my die setups will only happen once. I have no plans to change anything going forward except for the seating stem depth (for different bullets), and the powder charge.

This is going to be so much easier and faster than my rifle stuff, which will always be single stage in my house. I don't crimp anything on the rifle side. If I ever do, it will be with a Lee factory crimp die.

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