Truck A/C

[daddyo]

Noticed a clicking noise over the weekend on my F150 that stops when I shut the a/c off. Took it to the shop that I use and was told that either the compressor or the a/c clutch is going out, but to get a warranty on the part, that I have to purchase a "package" that includes compressor, condenser, and a bunch of other crap to the tune of $1,000!! Just because one part is going out!

Am I being sold a bill of goods, or do I need to take it somewhere else?

Edited April 30, 2012 by DaddyO

[peejman]

My guess is they've been burned by A/C system problems. Uninformed people come in and say "my A/C system doesn't work". They find one bad part and replace it. A couple months later, that person comes back with the same complaint... "You didn't fix it... " They find a different problem, but the customer doesn't know/care...

Given the interaction between all the components in the A/C system, sounds like they want to replace to most of the stuff in it to cover their arse. I'd get another opinion or just DIY.

[Guest 6.8 AR]

Not necessarily. You should replace the dryer when the compressor goes. Condensors cause a good amount of problems on Fords,

but not as frequently as the orifice tube. If the seals are going on the compressor, that stuff can wreak havoc(Black Death) and will

contaminate the system. I still do all my own work on the A/C's on all my Fords. I use remanufactured(Hesco) compressors, from

the dealer.

If your A/C is still working get under the hood and listen for where the clicking is. Clicking might be a clutch. Don't even have to break

the system for that, but if it is the compressor, now is the time to replace it before everything else fails.

[Sean]

Not necessarily. You should replace the dryer when the compressor goes. Condensors cause a good amount of problems on Fords,

but not as frequently as the orifice tube. If the seals are going on the compressor, that stuff can wreak havoc(Black Death) and will

contaminate the system. I still do all my own work on the A/C's on all my Fords. I use remanufactured(Hesco) compressors, from

the dealer.

If your A/C is still working get under the hood and listen for where the clicking is. Clicking might be a clutch. Don't even have to break

the system for that, but if it is the compressor, now is the time to replace it before everything else fails.

I agree. You can always get a second opinion. SInce you are in the Franklin area, go check out Christian Brothers Automotive. They do great work there. I think one of their employees is a member on here also.

[strickj]

Not necessarily. You should replace the dryer when the compressor goes. Condensors cause a good amount of problems on Fords,

but not as frequently as the orifice tube. If the seals are going on the compressor, that stuff can wreak havoc(Black Death) and will

contaminate the system. I still do all my own work on the A/C's on all my Fords. I use remanufactured(Hesco) compressors, from

the dealer.

If your A/C is still working get under the hood and listen for where the clicking is. Clicking might be a clutch. Don't even have to break

the system for that, but if it is the compressor, now is the time to replace it before everything else fails.

What he said.

Compressors have a Teflon coating inside. When they fail, this coating will contaminate the system (black death). If the system is not flushed and all non-flushable parts replaced, the black death will cause your new compressor to fail.

I think all compressor manufactures will demand that the orifice tube/expansion valve and drier/accumulator be replaced or your warranty will be void. So what they told you is correct.

Your condenser should be flushable... but it's still a good idea to replace them because condensers are very difficult to get completely clean.

Your compressor clutch should be replaceable without having to remove the compressor.

If it is your compressor, be sure to tell them you want a variable orifice in place of the Ford fixed orifice.

Edited April 30, 2012 by strickj

[hipower]

... be sure to tell them you want a variable orifice in place of the Ford fixed orifice.

Coming from Strickj. that sounds disturbing...

[Slasher]

A few years back I had to replace the A/C system on my then 10 year old S-10. It cost me right around $1000 so the price sounds right for a whole system. This was a Firestone shop where I had this done.

[gregintenn]

If you're going to keep it, shell out the dough and replace the entire system. Refrigerant is expensive, and has to be replaced each time your air conditioner is worked on. Better to cry once and get it over with.

[ted]

Make sure Thay flush the lines and evap out to make sure any metal is out of the rest of the sys other wise it can damage the comp all over again the condenser never goes bad it's the metal that gets clogged up in the small fins inside that you can't get out

[Howler]

The clicking noise could be the clutch or it could be the system is low on charge. When the ac system leaks enough freon out the low pressure switch will kick off the compressor. This keeps the compressor from pumping all the oil out of the system.

1 Ask why the compressor is clicking.

a. Could be low on freon. If that's the case the leak needs to be found first. Dye can be added to a leaking system to help find the leak. Symtoms of a low charge. Slow to cool, not cold enough and...wait for it....a rapid clicking noise.

b. Could be a weak clutch. Some clutches (not all) can be replaced without removing freon. Most times when the clutch is going out the clutch kicks off and stays off until it cools down. Symtoms of a bad clutch is...car cools good, then it gets hot, and cools again after car sets (ignition off) for a bit. Another symtom could be the compressor never turns on. As long as 12 volts is sent to the clutch (along with having a ground) the clutch should engage.If it dosn't the magnet has failed or the clutch gap is too great. If the clutch is the problem there is no need replace cond, evap, or drier (unless the system has been open).

c. A failing low pressure switch could cause the compressor to kick off at the wrong time. Instead of kicking off at lets say 19psi it kicks off at 30psi. This happens but not often.

d. If the compressor has failed... do yourself a favor and have the drier replaced. Make sure the sysem is flushed too. Metal that's been pushed through the system can stop up a line, orfice tube, or expansion valve.

Hope this helps

[turkeydad]

Go somewhere else. . the only reason you would have to change the condenser. .expansion valve. . receiver dryer (or accumulator if is filter on the high side in stead of the low side) would be catastrophic failure of the compressor or if any of the individual parts failed on their own. I'm assuming they found the system fully charged. . and that the binary or trinary switch (according to how equipped) is signaling the clutch to engage the compressor shaft but it just wont. .which is often how they go when just worn out (no more friction material left to engage the shaft). If this is the case and it is a clutch/compressor one piece unit (which is the way most manufacturers do it now which sucks). . then evacuating the system. . remove and replace compressor (check oil as often are shipped empty). . pull a vaccuum make sure holds for about 30 minutes. . should pull down to about 29 and hold (cant get to 30 except in space). Should be able to put your own freon back if their machine that recovers is properly maintained and filtered. . and voila. . .done. . .There would only be warranty on the parts replaced. .but it woudl be good to go if all the above conditions are true

[turkeydad]

Btw...they will say they cant earramty the compressor unless they change all thwm other parts which is complete idiocy unless tbere was catastrophic failure resuling in metal in system....solution gef your own compressor on ebay for about 90 bucks depending on model and let someone install it if you cant so yourself....Ive had very good luck with that but as with all things your mileage may vary...