Good reloading setup for a beginner?

[gjohnsoniv]

In the next couple months I'm hoping to get started in reloading. What is a good starting setup for a person new to reloading? I manly mean press, but any other equipment comments are welcome as well.

Edited April 16, 2012 by gjohnsoniv

[kckndrgn]

I started with the Lee Classic Turret Press. The advantage was that I could remove the indexing rod and it basically made the press a single state press. As I got more comfortable with it, I added the rod back in and went to town.

I now have a Dillon Square Deal B press. The combination of the 2 works out nice. I use the Lee for my rifle and 44mag reloading and the Dillon for 9mm, 40S&W and .45ACP.

What is it that you plan on reloading? Rifle, Pistol, combination?

[MphsTiger1981]

As a newbie, I recently started out with the single stage Lee Anniversary Kit that I purchased NIB off of eBay. it came with most of the things I needed to get started, and let me get a taste of reloading to see if I was going to enjoy it, and stick with it without investing an arm and a leg. I've now loaded about 700 rounds of 9mm and 38 specials since getting started and I'm hooked. I don't see a progressive press in my immediate future, but I do see the advantages of using one, if you wanted to get started that way.

Someone also suggested to me buying a reloading manual first and doing some reading to see what all is involved before spending the money to buy the equipment, and I did. I would say that helped me quite a bit, and I would offer that same suggestion to you. I purchased the Lyman manual, but there are others that I am sure are as good, or better. good luck!

[gjohnsoniv]

What is it that you plan on reloading? Rifle, Pistol, combination?

I would like to reload both, mainly 5.56, .308, 9mm, .45 because that covers my spectrum of calibers. Others if I end up getting something chambered for it.

[mikegideon]

Get the ABC's of Reloading too.

[Guest canebreaker]

I started in '91 with a Lee anniversary kit. I've loaded as many as a 1,000 rounds per week, 38 spl. I've added 9mm, 380and a C frame. I have a loadmaster for 9mm and one for 38 spl. I'm adding 40 s&w soon.

utube.com, type in name of press kit and watch it work. Some are good, some are great.

[gjohnsoniv]

Explain one thing to me though; what's the difference between the presses such as a progressive and a C-frame? I take it the progressive does several steps at one time to different pieces of brass, but on a C-frame you do step one to all the brass, then step two, then step three, etc, etc?

[kckndrgn]

Explain one thing to me though; what's the difference between the presses such as a progressive and a C-frame? I take it the progressive does several steps at one time to different pieces of brass, but on a C-frame you do step one to all the brass, then step two, then step three, etc, etc?

I think you answered your own question.

WIth my Dillion after the 4th cycling of the handle I will start putting out a round each time I cycle the handle. On the Lee, I need to cycle the handle 4 times (IIRC) to get one round, everytime. Progressive allows you to load more rounds in the same amount of time.

[Jonnin]

I picked the lee classic turret press as well. It is great for pistols, and slightly better than a single stage for rifles.

The trouble with rifles and necked cartridges is you have to trim them after sizing, so the brass cannot really stay on the press from start to finish. With straight wall pistol, the brass is on the press from start until ready to shoot, without any external steps.

If you want to make LOTS of ammo FAST, get the lee disk powder measure. It is a little sloppy if your goal is to make every round the same for accuracy purposes, but for bulk shooting, it is extremely useful. It works best with small particle ball powders, which give the least variation in "air space" between grains of powder.

[gjohnsoniv]

Hmm. Which is better for me to start with? Money aside. I know I will probably start with just a C-frame due to cost at first just to get my feet wet.

[Jonnin]

Explain one thing to me though; what's the difference between the presses such as a progressive and a C-frame? I take it the progressive does several steps at one time to different pieces of brass, but on a C-frame you do step one to all the brass, then step two, then step three, etc, etc?

There are really 3 main types. Single stage, you do 1 thing to a piece of brass, repeat for all your brass, then do the next thing to each piece, across 4 or 5 steps assembly line fashion. Requires a place to store brass full of powder but no bullet yet and is the slowest. Turrets do one bullet from start to finish. Progressive do one stage to several pieces, so it works in parallel and is the fastest.

Progressives tend to have automatic wigits, so you do not have to powder this case, bullet that case, prime another case each time. Turret, you still tend to hand-seat the bullets and possibly hand powder the cases (many users just funnel it in, I use the device, its a choice).

Hmm. Which is better for me to start with? Money aside. I know I will probably start with just a C-frame due to cost at first just to get my feet wet.

I strongly recommend a turret. You can turn a turret press into a single stage if you want, or use its design to go faster if you prefer that. You can never make a single stage any faster, though.

Edited April 16, 2012 by Jonnin

[mikegideon]

I picked the lee classic turret press as well. It is great for pistols, and slightly better than a single stage for rifles.

The trouble with rifles and necked cartridges is you have to trim them after sizing, so the brass cannot really stay on the press from start to finish. With straight wall pistol, the brass is on the press from start until ready to shoot, without any external steps.

If you want to make LOTS of ammo FAST, get the lee disk powder measure. It is a little sloppy if your goal is to make every round the same for accuracy purposes, but for bulk shooting, it is extremely useful. It works best with small particle ball powders, which give the least variation in "air space" between grains of powder.

Yeah. After I size the cases, I tumble the lube off, and then trim. I also weigh all my charges. I decided early on that I would stick with a single stage until (if) I ever jump into loading a decent sized volume of pistol stuff. Currently, I only load rifle.

[mikegideon]

Explain one thing to me though; what's the difference between the presses such as a progressive and a C-frame? I take it the progressive does several steps at one time to different pieces of brass, but on a C-frame you do step one to all the brass, then step two, then step three, etc, etc?

Since you're going to load rifle, you may want to get an O frame instead of a C frame. Examples are the Lee Classic Cast and RCBS Rock Chucker. If you want the BEST single stage, get a Forster Coax. They're not cheap, and can be hard to find in stock. Our buddy DLM has some right now.

[LI0NSFAN]

I saved some brass from the range this weekend for you. Just let me know when you get started and I will meet up with you.

[jcoosi]

I bought the RCBS Rock Chucker kit for starting off.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit?cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Presses-_-PriceCompListing-_-937051

I like it so far does good for me.

[mikegideon]

I have turned into a huge RCBS fan. ALL of their stuff works well. I like Lee presses and dies, but can't say that for everything they make.

[gjohnsoniv]

I saved some brass from the range this weekend for you. Just let me know when you get started and I will meet up with you.

Thanks. I'm out of town right now but when I get back in I'll let you know.

If you want to make LOTS of ammo FAST, get the lee disk powder measure. It is a little sloppy if your goal is to make every round the same for accuracy purposes, but for bulk shooting, it is extremely useful. It works best with small particle ball powders, which give the least variation in "air space" between grains of powder.

My goal is to make ammo for general purpose and practice, nothing match grade at first. At some point I would like to make match grade ammo but for the time being cutting down some of my shooting costs is the main priority.

[Guest canebreaker]

The Lee breech kit has the extra shell holders for the priming tool as an extra over the anniversary kit. They both have about 75-90% of the total of what you"ll need to get started.

If you buy local or online in state, you'll pay sales tax, shipping for online.

I use www.leeprecision.com as a parts/price guide. Instate online dealers wideners.com and midsouthshooterssupplies.com

Out of state dealers midwayusa.com , fmreloading.com , fsreloading.com , and a few others. Shipping only, unless you add powder/primers, add hazmat.

I've loaded as many 38 spl. on both the O frame and C frame. I'd use the O frame over the C frame for rifle.

Loading with the loadmaster, I get some messed up cases and some sideways primers. I have the O frame set up with the decapping die and the C frame with the bullet puller die.

[gjohnsoniv]

O-frame it is then. I take it that the O-press is also just as suitable for handgun as it is rifle? Also could someone explain the turret press for me as well? Is it a rotating top piece where you load your brass then go through the different stages?

[Jonnin]

O-frame it is then. I take it that the O-press is also just as suitable for handgun as it is rifle? Also could someone explain the turret press for me as well? Is it a rotating top piece where you load your brass then go through the different stages?

Turret is essentially single stage press except the dies rotate, so you can have all your dies set up at once and do every stage of reloading back to back on the same round. The dies rotate, the brass is down below and pushed up into the dies. One of the many advantages of this type is that you can remove the turret, and put in another one --- keeping your dies ready to go for each caliber, saving a lot of setup time as you swap from one thing to another.

[gjohnsoniv]

Would you recommend that over a O-press if I do plan on making quite a bit and in different calibers?

[Jonnin]

I have not used an O press, and am unsure if they even come in turret or progressive designs? If they are just single stage presses, I would go for the turret, just be sure to get an all steel press if you get a turret press and do rifle loads.

My turret press, the lee classic, is strong enough. I cut the end off 30-06 rounds and forced them (easily pushing 50 pounds of force onto the press handle) into a die to make them into another caliber by sheer brute power. I made a number of them and while my first reloading table broke under the strain, the press is just fine. New table has held up to this task quite well. I do not see the need for the additional leg of an O press from a stability standpoint. If I ever manage to bend it, I will let you know.

[gjohnsoniv]

I suppose I was meaning more from an efficiency standpoint which would you choose, not from strength alone. I don't think I would be a fan of having to do all of the first stage, then come back and do the second and so on until I was done. Since the turret you can just twist and move onto the next stage until done.

[mikegideon]

I suppose I was meaning more from an efficiency standpoint which would you choose, not from strength alone. I don't think I would be a fan of having to do all of the first stage, then come back and do the second and so on until I was done. Since the turret you can just twist and move onto the next stage until done.

That's the advantage. Die setup isn't a problem, especially if you get something like a Breech Lock Classic Cast. You set your dies up once, and they quick change. The Coax is the same way. I never have to make a change to a die setup unless I change bullets (different seating depth).

[gjohnsoniv]

Well I guess a turret it is for me then. Looking at the cost now it's not really as bad as I thought it would be. Expensive yes, but the cost cutting for what I shoot will be nice.