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New reloading bench


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Posted (edited)

Well I finally got around to fixing my new reloading bench. I used an old craftsman tool cabinet my FIL gave me and removed the fiberboard top and replaced with 3/4 hardwood plywood. I used the whole 8 foot section and made a separate workspace to the side. I also painted the cabinet and draws as they were kinda rusty.

The only drawback is I made the legs a little narrow, I just used the cabinet width to build my frame. I should have spread the legs farther apart and it would be a little more stable. But once I load it down it should be fine, and if all else fails I'll just anchor it to the wall.

5e861552.jpg

Edited by Lumber_Jack
  • Like 1
Guest canebreaker
Posted

Great start. Add a hutch style shelf unit to it and fill it up.

Posted
Great start. Add a hutch style shelf unit to it and fill it up.

That's the next step. I have the other half of that sheet of plywood. I just need to rip it down and build some shelves.

Posted

Looks good...find a couple of studs in the wall, attach it with L-brackets, and you'll be off and running!

Posted

There's no junk on it! How can it be a reloading bench when you can actually see the table top?

J/K Give it time, it'll be covered with cråp and you'll be right there with the rest of us!

Posted

There's no junk on it! How can it be a reloading bench when you can actually see the table top?

J/K Give it time, it'll be covered with cråp and you'll be right there with the rest of us!

That i can agree with LOL.

I have found ammo cans come in handy along with plastic milk crates when I run out of shelf room.

Posted

That i can agree with LOL.

I have found ammo cans come in handy along with plastic milk crates when I run out of shelf room.

That's what I used for mine. They work great.
Posted

I would hit it with a sander and at least use some poly on it. It will get ugly pretty fast if you don't. The Minwax all in one stuff (stain/poly) works. Mine is going in the house, so everything will have to be finished. Still debating whether to use masonite, or bare finished plywood for the top layer.

Posted

I would NOT finish it [in the normal sense]. I used 3/4" birch plywood for mine [cabinet grade plywood]. Wipe it down with fine sandpaper to get any burrs off but I would hesitate on any finish that makes a coating. Shellac, varnish, poly's whatever. Over years, oils and lubes and all the other things we bathe in will just eat it up and it'll look like poo. I built mine in the summer and used a light coat of Johnson's Paste wax to penetrate it and protect it, but I didn't go heavy and I let it soak in very well and rubbed it down good before getting to work.

Posted

I would NOT finish it [in the normal sense]. I used 3/4" birch plywood for mine [cabinet grade plywood]. Wipe it down with fine sandpaper to get any burrs off but I would hesitate on any finish that makes a coating. Shellac, varnish, poly's whatever. Over years, oils and lubes and all the other things we bathe in will just eat it up and it'll look like poo. I built mine in the summer and used a light coat of Johnson's Paste wax to penetrate it and protect it, but I didn't go heavy and I let it soak in very well and rubbed it down good before getting to work.

Are you using that bench for reloading, or orgies? :pleased:

Posted

So I guess there is differing opinions on finish. I just feel that white birch plywood will look bad in short order

That was my thought. If you're gonna jump on the bench with a bottle of Wesson oil and a couple of biker chicks, you may wanna cover it in formica.

Posted
Bench looks good.I just used some 3/4 inch plywood on mine.

That's what I used.

The more I read about finishing the more confused I am. Some hate BLO but like Tung Oil, some say buy a blend. But most suggest a wax as Caster did. This helps things like glue or paint to not stick.

Posted

I've never messed with cast boolits. I'm thinking that where Caster's concern comes in (that, and the biker chicks). My reloading process is pretty clean.

Guest canebreaker
Posted

If you stain it, keep the color light.

Mine is naturl cheap 3/4" plywood with 3 coats of poly. I does stain from things seating on it. Poly is hard on sandpaper to refinish. But one table is 20 and the other is 10 years old.

Whatever is mounted on it, presses, vise, use bolts, not screws. If you have to mount into a support member, use lag bolts. Predrill all holes.

If you want a 4 foot light kit over it, go with one that has a difuser on it. It will help with the eyes. You may want to use only 1 of the bulbs.

Posted

most benches I see are not bolted down.......depending on press you will need that sucker

to be bolted down like a rock....single stage presses not so much but a 4 or 5 stage prog

will move if not sturdy

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