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I stripped two threaded holes on aluminum scope rings...


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Posted

These are the old plunger style Bausch and lomb split rings, and replacements aren't to be found. There isn't enough metal to go to a larger screw. Is there any practical way to fill the holes and redrill/tap them?

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Posted

A man who REALLY knows his stuff could tig weld the holes up, then you could redrill and tap. Have you researched to see if there's an appropriate Helicoil to fix it with?

Posted

A very talented and patient welder could fix them, but that'd likely cost more than new ones. You might find an odd-ball threaded insert that's fractionally bigger than what's there to replace it with.

Dare I say.... there's always JB weld.

Posted

Dare I say.... there's always JB weld.

He didn't say what caliber or what load for unsaid caliber. That's a VERY viable option depending on the set up.

.22LR YES

.243 or light .308, possible

30/06 maybe

300 win mag, no, probably not.

Posted (edited)

Not a 99. It is on a pre 64 model 70 featherweight in 243.

The screws are 8-32, and I believe a helicoil kit is available. How well do they work? I've never used them.

I have thought about JB weld. I guess it's worth a try.

Edited by gregintenn
Posted (edited)

Couldn't you just fill the holes with J-B Weld then redrill and tap to the required dimensions? Or something along those lines.

Maybe coat the screws in Turtle Wax (making sure the threads are entirely covered), put some JB on them, insert and let dry. Theoretically the JB will bond with the rings and the screws will screw right out. Sounds good to me anyway.

Edited by Garufa
Posted

IF installed correctly, a Helicoil is stronger than the original threads. It will distribute the load of a given thread size over a larger area. They can be tricky to install when they're little and the kits are not cheap. Don't be fooled into thinking you can do it without the little install tool either. It's tempting to get the tap and the inserts but that there's a tool that looks similar to a schrader valve tool. When the stripped hole is tapped with the helicoil tap, the inserts are threaded in with the tool. There's a little tab inside the insert that rides in a notch on the tool. Thread it in carefully, be SURE the tapped hole is clean, blow it out really good. The tab on the insert is usually scored so that after a certain amount of pressure it will break. That way when it's in, you can pop the tab and the hole will be through.

YOU CAN DO IT! If they're rare, it's worth it too.

Posted

Thanks everybody. I found a stripped screw hole repair kit at Ace Hardware, that consists of thin sheets of a corrugated metal. They have a similar texture to a file. You cut them to size, drop in the screw hole, and screw in the screw. This worked, and only costed $1.99. If it lets go in the future, I'll likely pick up a helicoil kit.

Posted

http://www.hegibbs.com/index.htm

The old Bausch and Lomb Balvar line of scopes are quite interesting to me. They seem to be of high quality, and the big selling point of them was that the point of impact adjustments were in the mounts; not in the scope. This way, you were able to zero the scope on different rifles, and swap back and forth with no change in zero. This arrangement also made for a very rugged and durable scope.

Posted

Greg if you want Ill be glad to fix em for if your ACE kit dont work out.

You did say they are aluminum? If so I can fill and re tap with no problem and even re finish them.

Posted

Greg if you want Ill be glad to fix em for if your ACE kit dont work out.

You did say they are aluminum? If so I can fill and re tap with no problem and even re finish them.

Thanks for the offer, Jeff. If this doesn't work, I might be in touch.

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