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So who has a Saiga 12 with a flash hider?


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I am going to be chopping my S-12's barrel down and permanently attaching a flash hider. I am wondering what the length is on a few types. I am looking for information on the longest round flash hider or information on the ones below.

First is the Russian bird cage style of flash hider.

2358961.JPG

Next would be the long 10 slot MD Arms:

md-flashmed.jpg

I am not interested in any information about the shark brakes, only round style.

Here are the links to thepictures above to give credit where gredit is due:

http://store.carolin...PH-FLASH/Detail

http://store.carolin...SAIGA-12/Detail

The pictures above do not belong to me.

Thanks

Dolomite

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Just curious, Dolomite, but what's the benefit?

There probably isn't that much of a benefit. I am taking the barrel down to the minimum so I figured I would put something on the end so it just doesn't end.

Some of the brakes actually help but they are obnoxious in both sound and looks.

Dolomite

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Guest 6.8 AR

Gotcha. I saw a wierd looking brake on a youtube the other day. Forgot the name, but it is way

back on the barrel and not what you are looking for. Many schemes popping up with that gun.

The original barrel has a threaded cap, doesn't it. Don't know if you could re-thread and use

that cap? Guessing not, though.

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Gotcha. I saw a wierd looking brake on a youtube the other day. Forgot the name, but it is way

back on the barrel and not what you are looking for. Many schemes popping up with that gun.

The original barrel has a threaded cap, doesn't it. Don't know if you could re-thread and use

that cap? Guessing not, though.

They sell everything to shorten then rethread the barrel. But without it being permanently attached you still need 18" of barrel before the flash hider. I am looking at 14"-15" then a 4"-5" long flash hider on the end. I am going to slip fit the flash hider then silver solder it in place. I was planning on welding it in place but have converns over the thin barrel.

I know the brake you are talking about. It vents gases about 1/2 way down the barrel. It has to be loud and miserable for anyone standing next to you.

Maybe I just need to spring for the Form 1 and do it right.

Dolomite

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I had to open up my gas ports when I shortened my barrel. It would hardly cycle anything.

Mine will cycle anything and everything even on setting 1. I have glass bolted the gun. I made my own lightweight, dished puck. I replaced the front recoil spring with a 16 pound 1911 spring. It also has a lightened hammer/trigger spring.

I have yet to do any port work but after cutting off 4"-5" I might have to which is easy enough.

What brake are you using?

Do the Saigas benefit from the short barrel?

Easier to manuver but other than that no. But they really don't loose a lot, in the way of perfromance, either.

Dolomite

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I have this one http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-268/DPH-PHANTOM-SAIGA-12/Detail I like the somewhat aggressive but not as aggressive as something like the shark brake. I moved the trigger forward then had trouble shooting high powered stuff. Once I got that worked out I had the barrel cut down and the FH permanently mounted I had trouble cycling even the high brass stuff once again. Everything I researched told me that the shortening of the barrel caused it and the gas ports needed to be opened. The gas block was a pain to get off. I had to beat it off with a big hammer, a press would have worked better. Even now it's 50/50 with low powered stuff but buck shot, 3 1/4 dram field loads (the rio stuff doesn't really cost anymore than the 2 2/3 dram) and slugs run fine. I'm sure if I played around more I could get it to cycle everything but I plan on SBS and possibly shortening the gas system so I don't really want to spend the time on it.

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Have you touched the hammer at all?

I know the Tapco hammers tend to be higher and can ride the bottom of the bolt HARD causing cycling issues. I know mine did exactly what you describe and I took about 1/16th off the face to ease some of it but it still wasn't 100%. Since then I have enough compliance parts that I put the factory hammer back in and it runs EVERYTHING and it does it on 1. If I set it on 2 I get some issues from the bolt moving too fast, even with low brass stuff.

Even though it cycles low brass fine on 1 I do not get impacts at the rear trunion when shooting high brass stuff. I will never fire 3" shells so I tuned it for 2 3/4".

I would suggest swapping back to the original hammer at a bare minimum. If that doesn't help, I bet it will, then replacing the front spring with a 16 pound 1911 spring will definitely help. The spring is what is supplied in the reliability kit sold by CSS from what I have been told.

Dolomite

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