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Glock 21 jam


Guest 357 Mag

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Guest 357 Mag

My Gen 3 G21 has the following aftermarket parts:

  1. Lone Wolf extended/ported brl.
  2. Extended mag release
  3. Extended forward slide release
  4. Extended slide-lock lever
  5. Ghost 3.5 trigger

Last night when I inserted a magazine, then racked one in the chamber, the slide would not budge after that. Took mag out, played with it ( very carefully, one still in the pipe ) the slide would only move back a little then stick. I had to " tap " the back of the slide to get it to rest back where it belongs, then promptly went out and fired the round to clear it. Probably not brilliant, but I couldn't get the slide to move. Once fired, the casing lodged between the slide and the top of the barrel straight up and down. I was using a ten round mag with a +2 extension, so I ####-canned that one and inserted a fully loaded flush 13-round mag and never, after several attempts, could duplicate the issue. I haven't fired it again though, but the only thing I can think of is maybe I didn't have the barrel and guide-rod/spring linked up and seated properly. After firing, where everything slams together rather quickly, could this have fixed my issue, or what in the world was the issue to begin with? Anybody?

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Wrong header for post. Should have read "Modified Glock 21 jam" Anytime you modfy a a factory made weapon, you assume the responsibility for the changes you have made to the weapon's original design. I did modify my Glock 23 and put in a NY#1 trigger as I was uncomfortable with the 5 # pull of the original. However, I am well aware that I cannot ever blame the Glock if that trigger fails. "It didn't come that way."

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Guest 6.8 AR

Assuming it was factory ammo, it was, wasn't it? Without any ammo in it, did it function right racking the slide?

Compare the two barrels to see about the any angles, chamber, etc for any little differences.

Just saying, but it sounds like something that happens with poorly sized, reloaded ammo, but

I'd make sure everything is locking up right before putting any ammo back in the gun.

It's never a bad idea to play with it and check things over about 15 times before you shoot it.

doesn't the spring and guide usually seat themselves after a racking of the slide.

Mine usually do. But I'm not a Glock Armorer. I'm sure someone else will get it right for 'ya.

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Guest 357 Mag

Wrong header for post. Should have read "Modified Glock 21 jam" Anytime you modfy a a factory made weapon, you assume the responsibility for the changes you have made to the weapon's original design. I did modify my Glock 23 and put in a NY#1 trigger as I was uncomfortable with the 5 # pull of the original. However, I am well aware that I cannot ever blame the Glock if that trigger fails. "It didn't come that way."

Thus, the first statement I made was, " My Gen 3 G21 has the following aftermarket parts: " ....

Thought that would have taken care of meaningless-detail freaks such as yourself.

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Guest 357 Mag

Assuming it was factory ammo, it was, wasn't it? Without any ammo in it, did it function right racking the slide?

Compare the two barrels to see about the any angles, chamber, etc for any little differences.

Just saying, but it sounds like something that happens with poorly sized, reloaded ammo, but

I'd make sure everything is locking up right before putting any ammo back in the gun.

It's never a bad idea to play with it and check things over about 15 times before you shoot it.

doesn't the spring and guide usually seat themselves after a racking of the slide.

Mine usually do. But I'm not a Glock Armorer. I'm sure someone else will get it right for 'ya.

I shoot either Winchester white-box FMJ's for heavy practice, or Remington Golden Sabres for light practice/personal protection rounds, I never use re-loads. I promise I checked and double-checked everything. I had a very reputable and knowledgable gunsmith do all the work. I love Glocks, so I reverted back to my factory barrel and cannot duplicate the issues, at all. The lone wolf is a sack of crap somewhere down the line.

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Point was not to correct your English, but to re-emphasize the fact anytime you modify a gun it will take some fine tuning to get back your reliability. I wasn't trying to put you down.

The Meaningless Detail Minded Freak

  • Like 4
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Guest 357 Mag

All apologies. Understood. I did in fact take the pistol to very reputable gunsmith in my area to fine-tune. I love what I did to it, the mods work for me, obviously except for the barrel now. Maybe I got a LWD barrel that was machined a hair off. LWD does certainly advertise " drop-in ", and window shopping for one when looking at all their selling points makes that barrel seem fancy.

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Guest 6.8 AR

Oh no, I understand. I missed the gunsmith part. I've thought about trying one of their barrels.

It sounds like the best option is still the original barrel. The reason I mentioned the reloaded

ammo is I had that problem a long time ago.

Try contacting Lone Wolf and see what they say. They may try to make it good and replace

the barrel. Never know.

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With aftermarket parts, many times there will be an issue between part #1 and #4 (Barrel and Slide Lock).

The interaction of these two is critical when the pistol is going in and out of battery as this is one of the areas on a Glock that "locks" and "unlocks."

That groove in the Slide Lock fits to the barrel locking lug. If specs are off, it can cause these issues.

Impossible to diagnose from afar, but it's one thing to consider.

Edited by TN-popo
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FWIW i have had nothing but success with my lone wolf drop in barrel on my G21 (extended threaded) and g23 (40 to 9mm conversion extended and threaded)

I however do prefer and use the factory fire controls

Are you using the OEM Slide Lock?

To the OP, I've heard of, and seen, a lot of problems with aftermarket Slide Locks (just as a point of reference, I've been a Glock/LE armorer for 14 years).

Seems like a simple part, but it can cause headaches.

Edited by TN-popo
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In the interest of clarity, in my posts I was referring to the Barrel's interaction with the Slide Lock (vs the Slide Stop Lever).

The OP called #4 a "slide lock lever" which I took as the Slide Lock.

Edited by TN-popo
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  • 2 months later...
Guest kingarmory

Sounds like the breach end of the barrel may be fitted too tightly (causes the gun to want to stay locked in battery) or there is always the possibility that the throat in the barrel is cut to short and is allowing the rifling to grip certain bullets when chambered. Either way you'll want to have a smith take a look at it.

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