Help! Restoring some rusted guns.

[Kylev87]

Ok here's the deal my father-in-law had a house fire a few years back and the guns actually didn't get direct contact with the fire but the guns were in a basement for a few years and are rusted. I have started on one gun trying to get the rust off with number 3 steel wool and it's doing good but there's some spots that I can get off with it. I have access to a sand blaster, Do you guys think I could sand blast these guns then reblue them?

Do you guy have a bluing kit that you would suggest?

Thanks for input

[Dolomite_supafly]

You do realize that older guns used a process called rust bluing. It leaves a brown finish that looks like rust but it was the finish used before blue bluing came along. Removing the rust blue from an older gun may be ruining any value the gun has. I would never sandblast a gun unless you want a flat black look.

If the wood was damaged by the fire the metal may have lost its strength in the fire. I would not chance shooting anything other than a 22 if it has damage.

What guns are they? You may be ruining some very valueable guns by trying to refinish them.

I watched a guy walk into a show with a very old and very rare Colt single action. In its original finish it was worth $3,000-$5,000, maybe even more but because he took a wire wheel to it the day of the show it turned it into a $500 shooter. He said he was trying to get the brown rust coloring off. It didn't appear to have any pitting and the grips were in nice shape other than where the wire wheel hit them.

Just saying you need to make sure the brown you see isn't the factory finish.

Dolomite

[Garufa]

Google around for electrolysis rust removal. It is very simple to do with just a few supplies.

[Kylev87]

You do realize that older guns used a process called rust bluing. It leaves a brown finish that looks like rust but it was the finish used before blue bluing came along. Removing the rust blue from an older gun may be ruining any value the gun has. I would never sandblast a gun unless you want a flat black look.

If the wood was damaged by the fire the metal may have lost its strength in the fire. I would not chance shooting anything other than a 22 if it has damage.

What guns are they? You may be ruining some very valueable guns by trying to refinish them.

I watched a guy walk into a show with a very old and very rare Colt single action. In its original finish it was worth $3,000-$5,000, maybe even more but because he took a wire wheel to it the day of the show it turned it into a $500 shooter. He said he was trying to get the brown rust coloring off. It didn't appear to have any pitting and the grips were in nice shape other than where the wire wheel hit them.

Just saying you need to make sure the brown you see isn't the factory finish.

Dolomite

It's definatly rust... The first gun I'm working on is a Winchester .243 WSSM the fire didn't even get hot enough to melt the synthetic stock so surely it couldn't have damaged the metal. I'll have to look at the others to remember what models they are but one is a Hawken .50cal muzzle loader with the brass stuff on it, two are single shot shotguns, and one is a bottom eject pump shot gun (not sure if I can fix this one it's froze up atm)

[Jonnin]

kroil might unfreeze the shotgun. Its good stuff.

[Dolomite_supafly]

And the electrolysis removal works well to unfreeze badly rusted guns. I took a completely frozen house fire pistol and after a day I was able to cock it even though the springs were shot.

Basically all you need is a battery charger, some washing (not baking) soda and some leads.

Dolomite

[Kylev87]

So I could put wood and all into the electrolysis solution? I may try that.

[Garufa]

Take the wood off.

[Kylev87]

Hmm I'm gonna have to lube this one up just to get the wood off. This will be an interesting project. Shall I post weekly progress/fail pics? lol

[Dolomite_supafly]

Would you be interested in selling the 243 as is?

Providing it hasn't been heated too far. Not too concerned with condition as long as it will not be unsafe after a rebuild.

Dolomite

[MarkInNashville]

Navel jelly will make rust disapear (and buleing too - dont ask me how I know, just accept that I paid for a tee-shirt that day so you won't need to). You can find it anyplace that painting supplies are sold (home stores etc.). As for reblueing it you might get something done with a "cold blue" kit but I think that in the long run you would be better-off to find someone who can aply a hot blue finish. I will say this a hot blue job isn't cheap but I have a friend who is a gunsmith and he said it is hours and hours and hours of work with the removial of the old finish, prepairing the metal, removing the things that can not be blued and then actually appling the finish.

[Garufa]

Navel Jelly will remove anything and everything down to the bare metal, including parkerizing.

My understanding is electrolysis will not remove the bluing. I've never used the method to remove rust from an entire gun but did rig up a bore cleaning setup using the same methods to clean a Mosin barrel. The filth that came out of there was amazing.

Edited March 7, 2012 by Garufa

[Kylev87]

Would you be interested in selling the 243 as is?

Providing it hasn't been heated too far. Not too concerned with condition as long as it will not be unsafe after a rebuild.

Dolomite

No these aren't my guns they are my father-in-laws I just offered to attempt to restore them.

[Kylev87]

Navel jelly will make rust disapear (and buleing too - dont ask me how I know, just accept that I paid for a tee-shirt that day so you won't need to). You can find it anyplace that painting supplies are sold (home stores etc.). As for reblueing it you might get something done with a "cold blue" kit but I think that in the long run you would be better-off to find someone who can aply a hot blue finish. I will say this a hot blue job isn't cheap but I have a friend who is a gunsmith and he said it is hours and hours and hours of work with the removial of the old finish, prepairing the metal, removing the things that can not be blued and then actually appling the finish.

Ok thanks Navel jelly = my last resort if the electrolysis don't work.

[Kylev87]

Got me some steel all thread for the metal in my electrolysis. That work or does it need to be a flat and wide piece?

[Oh Shoot]

Navel jelly will make rust disapear (and buleing too - ...

Navel Jelly will remove anything and everything down to the bare metal, including parkerizing...

Ok thanks Navel jelly = my last resort if the electrolysis don't work.

Wow, you guys must have some powerful goop built up in your belly buttons, but will the commercial product work also?

- OS

Edited March 7, 2012 by OhShoot

[Dolomite_supafly]

Got me some steel all thread for the metal in my electrolysis. That work or does it need to be a flat and wide piece?

Make sure it isn't coated like with zinc or anything. Also, do it outdoors because it releases hydrogen gas which is explosive.

You normally have to go to Kroger for the washing, not baking, soda. More is not better either. I used a teaspoon or two per 5 gallon bucket.

Talk to your relative to see if he wants to sell. And make sure to remind him if the stocks have been burned the guns are probably unsafe to shoot.

Dolomite

[gjohnsoniv]

Not to hijack this thread but I got some surface rust on my AR barrel after leaving it in storage for a while. It has a quad rail on it that I really don't want to take off to remove the rust, with the electrolysis can I just dunk the entire thing and be ok? Or should I just remove the rail and wipe it off?

[Dolomite_supafly]

The electrolysis is a very destructive process but it is less than rust itself.

Best bet would be to just wipe it down with oil.

Dolomite

[Kylev87]

Make sure it isn't coated like with zinc or anything. Also, do it outdoors because it releases hydrogen gas which is explosive.

You normally have to go to Kroger for the washing, not baking, soda. More is not better either. I used a teaspoon or two per 5 gallon bucket.

Talk to your relative to see if he wants to sell. And make sure to remind him if the stocks have been burned the guns are probably unsafe to shoot.

Dolomite

Like I said earlier the stocks didn't get burnt even the synthetic stock on the Win model 70 didn't melt so I don't think heat will be an issue just the rust.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Ok, offer still stands.

Dolomite

[gjohnsoniv]

The electrolysis is a very destructive process but it is less than rust itself.

Best bet would be to just wipe it down with oil.

Dolomite

Guess I'll be removing the quad rail then, that's going to be a pain.

[Kylev87]

The electrolysis is a very destructive process but it is less than rust itself.

Best bet would be to just wipe it down with oil.

Dolomite

Now a few post ago someone said it is the least destructive so which is it? lol

Electrolysis or Navel Jelly, I'm going to have to reblue them anyway.

Update: I got the shotgun loosened up and figured out what model it is a Ithaca Model 37

The Winchester Model 70 rifle I may try the Jelly on since I plan on camoing it.

[MarkInNashville]

Now a few post ago someone said it is the least destructive so which is it? lol

Electrolysis or Navel Jelly, I'm going to have to reblue them anyway.

Update: I got the shotgun loosened up and figured out what model it is a Ithaca Model 37

The Winchester Model 70 rifle I may try the Jelly on since I plan on camoing it.

My $0.02 is still to say find someone who can refinish it and talk to them BEFORE you do a single thing to it! It may have a very, very significent impact on what it is you can or should do.

[MarkInNashville]

Wow, you guys must have some powerful goop built up in your belly buttons, but will the commercial product work also?

- OS

That's the stuff. I learned about it in a shipyard in southern Mississippi (also learned how much it cost to have a pair of Smith & Wession handcuffs reblued, also)!