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Reloading some reloads in .357


Guest Nunya

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Guest canebreaker
Posted

That was good Lester.

With this loadmaster, I've had 4 primers seated sideways, I have the Forster puller in my C frame and the decapper in my O frame. I had the brass loaded again in 3 minutes.

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Posted

Ok.... I took the .357 out yesterday and left the .357 reloads at home. I did, however, take the .38 reloads that came from the same deal. I figured a "hot" 38 wouldn't hurt a .357. As you guys suggested "Bubba" wasn't very consistent in his loading!

My 14 year old (who is now saving his allowance and selling stuff to buy the .357 from me, he loved it so much) said "What the crap!" when it went pow pow pow BOOM.

So, thank you TGO for keeping me from blowing my face off with someone else's reloads.

My leeloader kit is in the mail.

Guest Nunya
Posted

Ok. Got my stuff... Lee loader kit, bullet puller, scale.

The FMJ came out easily and were loaded consistently (about 8 grains on the scale). I loaded them back with the 0.7 scoop which was less than what came out of them. Since I don't know the brand of the powder, I erred on the side of safety.

I feel comfortable with the process and that I can reload competently with that method.

Problem is ... Some of the .357 are crimped or something. No matter of thumping with the bullet puller budged them.

I guess I need to get a more aggressive puller for those ???

Posted

you can try pliers, just try to loosen it then whap it again. Wrap the teeth in cloth, maybe, or be extra gentle anyway.

Dunno about 357 but a 44 mag has enough recoil that a "real" load will pull the bullets inertially, inside your gun, if not crimped at least a tiny bit. I would think that most 357 had a light crimp (?). A light load won't do it, just a full magnum load and maybe only with heavier bullets (more inertia). Its a pain to deal with, they can pull out enough to stick, and you cant rotate the cylinder anymore... gotta get a dowel rod and push em back in, but not too far, or you can overpressure.

Keep that in mind if you decide to make hefty loads.

Thank goodness for autos, I dont crimp my 44s -- the magazine wont allow them to pull out.

Guest Nunya
Posted

So, if I understand correctly, you're saying these were probably crimped so that the recoil of the first cartridge in a wheel of six wouldn't pull the bullets before you had to shoot them?

Isn't there another method of pulling them? I seem to recall something about a lever operated puller.

Guest canebreaker
Posted (edited)

Some directions say to press the bullet in the case a bit to break the bond. That puller will get them out. It may take a few extra taps or hits to get them. Just don't act like your driving a 12 penny nail in with one hit.

I've pulled them, some with one easy tap and some seemed to take 15 minutes with a bit harder tap. I've opened it up to see if the bullet was moving too. And starting again. But with the shoulder on a 38 and 357 case, they will come out.

Easy way to press bullet into case. make a mark on the bullet with a sharpie about 1/32" above the case neck. Stand the case on wood. Hold on to the case. Strike the bullet with a plastic hammer lightly. See if the bullet moved any at all. Then pull it. A steel hammer will do. If you have a bench vise, put a towel on the jaws and watch the space between the make and neck as you press. it won't blow up.

Edited by canebreaker
Posted

wow how many bullets are we talking about ? Pullet puller hammers are a PITA

I made up my first 357 loads this week,powder was way limp even at full loads........Need some H110 :)

Guest canebreaker
Posted

What powder data did you us?

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