Reloading some reloads in .357

[Guest Nunya]

Spilling over from my Trading Post thread, I am considering pulling the bullets from some .357 rounds of unknown origin and reloading them myself.

What would I need to buy to do that? I assume a puller, press, dies, and a scale.

[R_Bert]

Are you planning on taking up reloading as a longer term hobby ?

If not, Maybe see if you can "borrow" (visit) a bench. Someone local to you might be willing to take you under wing.

Pulling them is easy. Look up "bullet puller" on midwayusa.com The hammers are ~$15 or less.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215517/frankford-arsenal-impact-bullet-puller

Edited February 23, 2012 by R_Bert

[Dave Shooter]

If you do take up reloading you'll also want a good reloading manual that tells you how to and has pressure tested data, not just internet hearsay.

[R_Bert]

These on-line intros to reloading -

http://www.lymanprod...ToReloading.pdf

and

http://www.redding-r...ading_guide.pdf

will give you a place to start thinking.

Edited February 23, 2012 by R_Bert

[Guest canebreaker]

I've heard of ppl breaking the hammer style pullers in the past. Remember, it's a tapping hammer, not a sledge hammer. Mine is almost 20 years old. It's pulled over 3k bullets. Still doing good.

I got the forster collet style the other day,419579 and the .356/.357 collet 446392 from midway. Dang, I had 4 trays of bullets pulled in an hour. The hammer style will sit back until it's needed.

Look at the press kits, they should have just about all you need for reloading. Read what comes with it, and what extras you'll need. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

My 12 year old Frankford Arsenal Impact Bullet Puller, which has some metal and rubber parts but mostly plastic-- Didn't cost much and it ain't broke yet but haven't used it a whole bunch. Probably haven't even pulled 100 bullets.

Maybe I ain't got the knack. Takes me several firm whacks on concrete to pull a bullet, plus the time-consuming chore of putting the loaded round in a collet, closing it up in the bullet puller, whacking it repeatedly on concrete, then removing the components. Am quite surprised the impact bullet puller ain't broke yet, even with the light use I gave it.

Feels vaguely sinful to repeatedly whack a clear plastic hammer against concrete-- Intentionally defying natural law! Can hear Bill Engvall now-- "So you are repeatedly whacking a flimsy-looking plastic gadget on concrete-- Here's your sign!"

Sounds like Canebreaker has better skill to have pulled so many bullets without going stark raving mad. Or maybe his bullet puller tool is better. Am betting on better skill rather than better tool.

I don't mean to diss the Frankford Arsenal impact bullet puller. It doesn't cost much, always pulls a bullet, and ain't broke yet. It would just seem a kinda slow way to pull a whole bunch of bullets assembly-line fashion.

If I ever need to pull a whole bunch of bullets, will probably get some bullet pulling collets for the single-stage press, as canebreaker explains.

Edited February 24, 2012 by Lester Weevils

[Guest canebreaker]

My puller is a franklin arsenal too. First thing I read was never strike against anything harder than wood. So I've always had a piece of oak wedge cut as firewood for the job. Striking the grain not cross grain. The first k I got was 38spl 158 gr. rn cowboy action rounds, loaded without powder. The second k was 9m 115 gr fmj loaded without primers. They almost tore up the collet in the puller. The rest were range pick ups and this deal. Striking up to 5 or 6 times on 38s/357s was ok. But losing the round in the puller on 9ms wasn't fun.That started about number 500.

I got it to pull bullets back that I had sunk to low. But a new set of collets for it ( # 2) and it will see lots more years.

[Jonnin]

If you do take up reloading you'll also want a good reloading manual that tells you how to and has pressure tested data, not just internet hearsay.

Most of the powder manufacturers publish data for free on their sites. Lee dies come with poweder data as well usually. Manual is a pricy waste unless you just want the thing.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

My puller is a franklin arsenal too. First thing I read was never strike against anything harder than wood. So I've always had a piece of oak wedge cut as firewood for the job. Striking the grain not cross grain. The first k I got was 38spl 158 gr. rn cowboy action rounds, loaded without powder. The second k was 9m 115 gr fmj loaded without primers. They almost tore up the collet in the puller. The rest were range pick ups and this deal. Striking up to 5 or 6 times on 38s/357s was ok. But losing the round in the puller on 9ms wasn't fun.That started about number 500.

I got it to pull bullets back that I had sunk to low. But a new set of collets for it ( # 2) and it will see lots more years.

Thanks canebreaker

Started using the puller on the shop concrete floor because first had tried on a "pretty solid" pine workbench, but the bench didn't seem firm enough to talk a bullet into coming out. I have some scrap 4X4 oak. A few-inch 4X4 oak cutoff might do, to set on the concrete floor as an "endgrain whacking surface" as you describe. Next time will try that.

Most of the powder manufacturers publish data for free on their sites. Lee dies come with poweder data as well usually. Manual is a pricy waste unless you just want the thing.

Thanks Jonnin

That is a good point that there may be such a wealth of reloading "technique and practices" info on the web that a reloading book may no longer be necessary.

As long as a beginner learns it somewhere. My starter book was a Lyman, whose text was augmented by online reading and asking numerous dumb questions. The first few chapters of the Lyman reloading manual of that time were chock full of how-to's, why's, wherefor's, do's and don'ts,. Good stuff and clearly explained. Worth reading a second time to make sure it was properly understood on the first read.

If a reloading book is comprehensive and well-explained, and the instructional chapters do not contain numerous dangerous errors-- Maybe it is worth some money just to have it "all in one place" available under the fingertips?

Edited February 24, 2012 by Lester Weevils

[Guest A10thunderbolt]

I learned how to reload from the web, and my stuff is all Lee. If you stick with their recommended loads you wont go wrong. I haven't had one bad bullet yet, that wasn't my fault. I was careless one time loading some 9mm, I must have left to get a drink or something and forgot to put powder in, the bullet wedged in the barrel, luckily I heard the small pop and realized what it was.

[Guest CajunKen]

Go to your local library and checkout " THE ABC'S OF RELOADING " It will take you thru the reloading process step by step. It doesn't provide load data, so you will need one of the previously mentioned sources for that.

[Jonnin]

I see you are in south pitts. I am in chattanooga, its not so far if you want any help from me (you would be doing any driving though). Also, the sportsmans warehouse here has a reloading expert who gives classes on the basics (the class is pretty short and only covers the high points) but you can ask him anything afterward or any other time. Its a good place to get powder and primers as well.

If this is a one time thing, you could use a lee-loader. It is a pressless system, very cheap, but it works for making a few rounds. If you want to get into it, get a press. http://leeprecision.com/reloading-kits/lee-loader-pistol/

It says to use brass fired in your gun but as I understand it, new brass works as well. Just not someone else's used brass (may or may not work, on a 357, it probably would work anyway).

If you want to get serious, buy a press. I strongly recommend a turret press, but a single stage is the least expensive.

You also need dies, as you noted, a scale, as you noted, calipers (important!), possibly a brass cleaner (tumbler). You may need a small funnel for the powder. I made one from a rifle cartridge with a tube cutter, but do not use it much.

You need bullets (your first batch will be the pulled ones), primers (your first cases will be primed already if you use the ones you pulled the bullets from), powder (you will have to buy this. Accurate #7 is good for magnum loads and comes in a small bottle). That is pretty much it for the basics.

[Guest Nunya]

Cool. It looks like the kits come with pretty much everything but the calipers and I can pick one of those up pretty cheap. I found a guy up the road who's getting out of it and has a kit plus some dies. I'll get a book from Amazon and get rolling.

Thanks, guys!

[Guest Nunya]

On that Lee loader... Obviously, that's a super-cheap solution to my current problem. Do you just use a rubber mallet instead of the press?

Think I might try that and a bullet-puller to dissassemble and reassemble this batch. If I enjoy the process, I can upgrade with a press, etc.

[Guest nicemac]

Most of the powder manufacturers publish data for free on their sites. Lee dies come with poweder data as well usually. Manual is a pricy waste unless you just want the thing.

I would never consider a reloading manual a "pricey waste." They are a wealth of information and no, all data is NOT available online.

[Jonnin]

On that Lee loader... Obviously, that's a super-cheap solution to my current problem. Do you just use a rubber mallet instead of the press?

Think I might try that and a bullet-puller to dissassemble and reassemble this batch. If I enjoy the process, I can upgrade with a press, etc.

Yes, you just hammer it together. I have not used one, but there are videos online of them in use and details about them. Someone here has probably used one.

Nicemac,I never said *everything* was free online. I said you can get the basic load data online from the powder manufacturer, and as much (or more) how-to info as well. Apart from obscure calibers or +p data, the manuals are, while nice, $20 and up spent on a book that contains largely free info. Its like buying a set of encyclopedias in today's world. They are nice, and look good in your bookshelf, but 95% of the info is available for free.

[JAB]

Feels vaguely sinful to repeatedly whack a clear plastic hammer against concrete-- Intentionally defying natural law! .

Not having gotten started reloading, yet the part of the whole thing that sounds weird, to me, is that you are basically hitting a live round with a hammer. Just makes me think of the old Bugs Bunny cartoons where one of the characters ends up with a job testing for dud missile warheads by whacking them with a big, wooden mallet.

[R_Bert]

Yes, you just hammer it together. I have not used one, but there are videos online of them in use and details about them. Someone here has probably used one.

Nicemac,I never said *everything* was free online. I said you can get the basic load data online from the powder manufacturer, and as much (or more) how-to info as well. Apart from obscure calibers or +p data, the manuals are, while nice, $20 and up spent on a book that contains largely free info. Its like buying a set of encyclopedias in today's world. They are nice, and look good in your bookshelf, but 95% of the info is available for free.

You must not have Comcast!

I see both sides, and choose to use both resource styles; 8 manuals (so far), and Internet as well. When setting up, it is *very* nice to have 8-10 info sources open on the same table. More than once, technology has let me down in the middle of a session.

[Dave Shooter]

I will follow up that, yes, there is reliable manufacturers load data and mechanics available on the web. The issue is for a new reloader to sort out the wheat from chaff. I've seen what I consider idiotic advice and dangerous loads posted in various places on web. I'd consider reloading manual to be ground truth for safe data and correct procedures.

For a first time reloader I'd recommend taping the data section shut until you've read and understand the "how-to" section.

[Guest canebreaker]

you are basically hitting a live round with a hammer.

You need to operate one before understanding what's going on.

[Guest Nunya]

You need to operate one before understanding what's going on.

Now that you put it that way, it doesn't sound nearly as desirable.

[R_Bert]

You need to operate one before understanding what's going on.

Now that you put it that way, it doesn't sound nearly as desirable.

Follow directions, you will be fine.

Otherwise, next step in upgrade is this - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/650614/lee-breech-lock-hand-press-kit no hammers required, but have to buy more "stuff"

[JAB]

Now that you put it that way, it doesn't sound nearly as desirable.

I was mostly following up on Lester Weevils comment about hitting a plastic hammer against concrete. It just 'seems' funny to me that pulling the bullet with that setup requires using a hammer.

That said, although I haven't actually started loading yet, one of the things that convinced me that I can safely reload my own ammo was a video on YouTube focusing on Pakistan's 'illegal' gun market. They showed a guy sitting in the dirt on the floor of a cave who was hand building guns with just hand tools. These weren't just zip guns or the like, either - they were largely clones of existing, factory guns (the one they showed was a 9mm pistol that looked similar to a full-size, HiPower type and went for $50.) Then when they showed a couple of guys handloading multiple rounds of ammo per minute with a hammer and some simple tools (actually looked like it might have been something like a "Lee Loader"), I decided that I could probably manage to do it with a press/kit without blowing myself up.

Edited February 24, 2012 by JAB

[Guest canebreaker]

JAB, yes you can reload without blowing up yourself. Out of all that I've reloaded, I've had 2 primers to go off while pressing them into cases. Both were CCI. I've had 2 primers not to fire, both remington. I've had 3 squib fires, they were 38 spl .357 120 gr. rn lead over 2.3 grs HP-38. With that load, the gun barely moves when fired. Good thing I only loaded 50 of them. 5,000 primers to a sleeve or brick, I'm about half way on my 10th. I reload in the house, mostly while watching tv. It's a safe hobby.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

I was mostly following up on Lester Weevils comment about hitting a plastic hammer against concrete. It just 'seems' funny to me that pulling the bullet with that setup requires using a hammer.

Hi Jab

The inertial pullers seem quite safe. I was more commenting that it "feels like" begging for tool breakage to design a mostly-plastic tool intended for repeatedly thunking against a hard surface. Though in practice they seem much more rugged than one would expect, work pretty well, and are very inexpensive.

You don't hit the ammo with a hammer. The hammer head is hollow. You unscrew the top of the hammer head and put a round of ammo in a collet in the top, facing down. Then you screw the top back on to clamp the case inside the hammer head so it can't move. The bottom inside of the puller is hollow and that is what catches the bullet and powder.

When you whack the hammer on a hard surface, the inertial jerk of deceleration tugs the lead bullet out of the case, but in my experience it takes several thumps to get the bullet all the way out. When the bullet finally comes all the way out, the bullet and powder fall into the bottom hollow of the hammer. Then simply unscrew the top, remove the empty case, then dump the remaining contents into your powder storage tray. Pick the bullet out of the powder tray and put it in your bullet tray. Then proceed to pull another bullet if you have more to pull.

I usually only have a few mistakes to fix at any one time. I keep a plastic jar for messed-up rounds that didn't get primed correctly, or the case mouth split seating the bullet, or whatever. After a few months when there are enough rejects in the plastic jar, I'll pull all of them in one sitting.