Kimber 1911 Extraction

[Guest 1911Girl]

Shot my Baby Girl for the first time today only had one issue, other than that issue I am looking forward to carrying her and becoming very close!

The Shell would get stuck between the slide and the barrel, to the point one got stuck we had to use a knife and multitool to get it out. We used five different types of ammo and it didn't really matter. I cleaned it and oiled it last night before I went shooting today, so there isn't any build up in the barrel or around the area.

Any Suggestions? I was told maybe looking into calling Kimber?

[Garufa]

Definitely sounds like you need a new extractor.

[Guest 1911Girl]

is it better to get one or call Kimber

[Lumber_Jack]

is it better to get one or call Kimber

I would call a local gunsmith, it should be relatively inexpensive. Unless the gun is brand new. If its new, call Kimber.

[Guest 1911Girl]

I would call a local gunsmith, it should be relatively inexpensive. Unless the gun is brand new. If its new, call Kimber.

its not new and my husband is a gunsmith sorta lol, so I am going to go to TN gun and knife country and talk to them guys

[Dolomite_supafly]

Does it do it with everyone who shot it? Although a rarity, limp wristing can cause problems like you describe.

Also, how many rounds total on the recoil spring. As they wear they can cause cycling issues.

Not sure if you do it or not but never let the slide drop onto a round in the chamber. This can damage the extractor on 1911's fairly quickly. The extractor is designed for the round to slide up and under the extractor.

As a quick fix try this. Remove the extractor and put it into a vice about mid way. Apply a little pressure to the outside of the extractor. Not a lot but enough that the extractor is harder to put back into the slide. Take it back out and try shooting it. It may or may not fix it.

Dolomite

[Dolomite_supafly]

I see you are new to the gun so I will say this. You would probably need to replace a few parts, nothing expensive or hard to replace.

Recoil spring, extractor and firing pin stop. If the new extractor will work with your current firing pin stop then there is no need to buy one. But at a minimum I would replace the recoil spring. You should be able to buy everything you need from Kimber. Or if you don't want to buy from them I would recommend Ed Brown for the extractor and firing pin stop and Wolff for the recoil spring. A 16.5 pound spring is standard and will work for anything you might fire out of the gun.

A few tips I will let you know about 1911's. First is they love grease above oil. I use molybendum disulfide grease for all of mine. You can find it at Walmart for under $6 for a large tube back where they sell wheel bearing grease.

These are the places I apply grease. Right before you put it together apply a little at the front of the rails on the frame and a little on the rear of the slide rails. Also, put a thin layer on the underside of the slide at the rear (you will see a shiny area, this is it). And finally a little bit on the locking lugs right in front of the ejection port of the slide. Put the gun together as normal. Now add a little to the front of the barrel where it hangs out of the front of the slide when the slide is locked back. This should be all the grease you need and the gun will not only shoot better but will feel better.

I will also add a drop or two of oil to the hammer, right where it passes into the frame. This will let the oil get down to the sear and eventually work into the other bits down there.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. There are some 1911 genius' on here and I am not one of them.

Dolomite

[Guest Plainsman]

I'll give you two links that may help you out...

As it relates to overall ejection issues and troubleshooting...

10-8 Performance: Troubleshooting 1911 Ejection

As it relates to proper extractor tension, which I feel you may be having issues with...

Hope you get things worked out!

[Guest 1911Girl]

Does it do it with everyone who shot it? Although a rarity, limp wristing can cause problems like you describe.

Also, how many rounds total on the recoil spring. As they wear they can cause cycling issues.

Not sure if you do it or not but never let the slide drop onto a round in the chamber. This can damage the extractor on 1911's fairly quickly. The extractor is designed for the round to slide up and under the extractor.

As a quick fix try this. Remove the extractor and put it into a vice about mid way. Apply a little pressure to the outside of the extractor. Not a lot but enough that the extractor is harder to put back into the slide. Take it back out and try shooting it. It may or may not fix it.

Dolomite

The slide caught the shell once, and it did it about four times in 100 rds, then I stopped messing around with it. My husband also shot it and it did it with him also, but I was flinching a few times. I think I am going to take it out tomorrow and see how she does with different ammo. If it is the extractor no biggie, we have one laying around somewhere.

I cleaned it night before applied oil to the slide, and grease to the parts of most wear on it. I have owned a 1911 before, but it wasn't as tight or picky , this is why the Kimber is a "she" and maybe when I run her a little more might help!

Thank You For Your advice.

[Paladin132]

Call Kimber. A buddy bought one used and had something break. He wound up with a brand new weapon.

[DJTC45]

I'm going to disagree about using grease on 1911's sorry, but I only use Wilson Combat ULTIMA-LUBE Oil it's ideal for temps.rangeing from 150deg.-10deg.it stays slicker than grease.Grease has a tendacy to "gum" up when the weapon starts to get dirty form shooting,I have had this problem in the past and since I swicthed to oil no problems what so ever,as far as your extractor problems you may ned a new one,allso like someone said before go ahead and change the recoil spring out you can go with the 16.5pound-to an 18pound spring,wolfe springs are great I personaly use an 18pound spring in my 1911's,allso make sure you do a complete detail strip,and a complete cleaning of your gun at least every 1500-2000 rounds that way you can inspect it for worn parts and can lubricate the sear,hammer strut and trigger,I recently had to replace a sear spring in my Les Baer that I found broken,and that 1911 is brand new with only 500rnds.ran through it.Get your self a good book that explains in detail how to do all of this,believe me once you do it a few times it's simple plus you get an understanding of how the 1911 works.Here is a good book for info.on the 1911.THE M1911 COMPLETE OWNER'S GUIDE by WALT KULECK,it has all the info. you need about the 1911.Good luck with your's and I have a feeling it won't be your last one you or your husband will buy.

Edited February 5, 2012 by tjc357

[Lumber_Jack]

Disagreeing is what we do on this forum. I use Mil-Comm tw25 grease on my 1911s

[DJTC45]

That's what it's all about,what works for one may not work for another,

[RobertNashville]

I don't know how old your Kimber is but it's my understand that Kimber stopped using external extractors a few years ago and went back to internal because of the type of problems you describe...I guess Kimber just never quite got it "right" with their external design. However, that's not to say that you can't make it work well using the tips already provided.

[Lumber_Jack]

Her 1911 has an internal extractor. She posted pics in another thread.

[RobertNashville]

Her 1911 has an internal extractor. She posted pics in another thread.

Ah...for some reason I thought the original post said it was an external!

[k9wh91984]

Put some KeeLube on it and it'll be GTG

[samson7x]

Check extractor tension and also make sure you take the extractor out and clean the tunnel. I use Q-tips dipped in Hoppes for this task. The extractor tunnel gets very dirty as its often overlooked for cleaning. As such, this can get dirty enough to prevent the extractor from flexing as it should to properly function.

[Guest nicemac]

My Kimber had this same issue when it was new as well. Kimber told me 6-8 weeks if I sent it to them. I asked if they would just send me a new extractor. They sent it to me in 2-3 days. I found it to be very picky regarding extractor tension. I wound up buying a Weigand Extractor Adjusting Tool and a Timney Trigger Pull Gage. Once set to the proper tension (IIRC it was around 28oz) the original performed flawlessly. I put the new one in the cabinet as a spare.

http://www.midwayusa...sting-tool-1911

http://www.midwayusa...posed-extractor

http://www.midwayusa...e-8-oz-to-10-lb

Edited February 9, 2012 by nicemac