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Re-sizing Die


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Guest Lester Weevils

Googling over the holidays, I saw some company selling resize dies where you push the case all the way thru the die. IIRC it was an open-top die with a ram to push the case thru. Which would only seem practical in a single stage or turret press.

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Lester, the one you are talking about is a bullet sizing die that people use to fix "Glocked" brass. Glock pistols have unsupported chambers and can "smiley" the brass if the loads are hot. The problems the OP is probably having is from a Glock pistol.

OP, what is going on that standard dies will not work? Are you making sure the die is bottoming out on the shell holder? They are designed to be bottomed out against the shell holder.

Dolomite

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Guest Lester Weevils
Lester, the one you are talking about is a bullet sizing die that people use to fix "Glocked" brass. Glock pistols have unsupported chambers and can "smiley" the brass if the loads are hot. The problems the OP is probably having is from a Glock pistol.

OP, what is going on that standard dies will not work? Are you making sure the die is bottoming out on the shell holder? They are designed to be bottomed out against the shell holder.

Dolomite

Thanks Dolomite

Maybe be remembering incorrectly, am pretty sure those all-the-way thru dies came from bullet-resizing suppliers, but they made some models specialized for cases rather than having to re-purpose a bullet sizing die. Could very well be remembering wrong.

May be remembering wrong again, but it seemed that they push the cases thru back-end first, which would make sense to avoid crushed cases.

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My basic lee die eats the case all the way to the shell holder. I consider that to be full length, its what every other "full length" die I have (223 and other rifle dies are billed as full length, or not, when you buy them). All my pistol dies meet the same "full length" definition that the advertised rifle dies meet, in other words.

The brass should be "nearly solid" back towards the primer, where the shell holder grabs it. Most brass should be fine with the standard dies. I pick up all my brass at ranges, where glocks are pretty darn common (and you can tell, the funny primer strikes give it away) and the normal dies work just fine on all of it, apart from the occasional super mangled case that gets tossed out.

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.40 and .45 it usually happens in Glocks. I haven't seen the bulge in any of my

9mm reloads, yet. In my case, it probably has to do with me not cramming

enough powder in to do it. I decided I liked my brass more when it was good

for more reloads. Glocks like full loads fine, but not real hot ones.

Edited by 6.8 AR
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Guest Lester Weevils

When reading about it awhile ago-- Was searching pictures of different kinds of bulged brass. Was looking around out of curiosity for an explanation for what would cause that range brass I posted pictures of, which had a "slight line bulge", expanded a few thousandths bigger from the bullet line on back to the case base. I wasn't worried about "fixing" those cases I picked up. They looked like they would size and load fine. Just wondered what caused it.

Never found other pictures with exactly that kind of tiny bulge from the bullet line, but learned interesting tidbits along the way.

Saw several threads about glock bulges, where it was alleged that glock 9mm chambers have fuller support than some other calibers of glock, and usually don't have a bulge.

Unless I'm remembering wrong, there were pictures of 9mm rear bulges that were said to be made by some 9mm machine guns. I think at least one discussion of full-sizing 9mm cases, had to do with reloading machine gun 9mm.

Edited by Lester Weevils
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What you are talking about is a Lee Bulge Buster Kit, it uses a Lee Factory Carbide Sizer die and a special punch that will push the case all the way through the die. I made one out of one of My Lee Factory Sizers and a Lee bullet punch from one of the bullet sizers. Didn't really need to do it just wanted to see if it would work and it did.

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Midway shows the parts. There is no reason to buy a bullet sizer just to get the ram as it come with the Bulge Buster kit. You will have to by the Factory Carbide Crimp Die(I called it a size die) for each caliber.

Bulge Buster Base Sizing Kit (380 Auto 40 S&W 45 ACP)

Here is the Lee web page link

Bulge Buster Kit - Lee Precision

This is the setup I used to work Glock 40 brass I had collected here & there. Works fine

on my 40 S&W. Haven't tried it on any other calibers.

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And one other caveat, they don't recommend doing this in 9mm.....I don't know, if I had the Lee Crimp die and was going to resize it anyways, I would give it a shot.

They don't recommend it because the 9mm case has a slight taper to it.

I personally use Redding for 9mm. Their size die has given zero problems and the cases chamber in everything. If you have problems with the bulge I'd use EGW U die (made by Lee). I have 'em in 40 and 38 Super and they work very well without the extra step of pushing cases all the way through an extra die.

Undersize Reloading Dies: Evolution Gun Works Inc.

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Thanks Dave and everyone, Dave what is Redding? Also how does an undersizing die work? All I have is range brass, every shoot I pick up all the 9's that are not wanted, so some come from Glocks. I am shooting a Para 18-9 and it has a ramped barrel that is very tight. EGW might just be what i'm looking for..

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Redding is a brand of die, like RCBS, Lee, Lyman, Hornday, etc.

The U dies (built by Lee soley for EGW) are .001 inches smaller (size the brass to a smaller diameter) and have a taper on the bottom that allows it to size all the way down to the extractor groove. I load .40 brass fired in Glocks all the time and after sizing in U die it will chamber in match 1911 .40 barrels backwards.

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If the issue you are seeing with that para is a 9mm that will not go all the way into the barrel chamber, it could be the rifling / headspace. The wife and I have 2 guns that will not accept some reloads, the rifling bites into the bullet early and the slide cannot close, cannot push it in any deeper, and it takes a dowel rod to remove the stuck round. This was always with heavier bullets, and you mention the 147 grain so I will ask if this is possibly the issue (rather than a tight chamber). The brass fit in fine, it was all a problem with the heavy, fat bullet not having enough room.

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If the issue you are seeing with that para is a 9mm that will not go all the way into the barrel chamber, it could be the rifling / headspace. The wife and I have 2 guns that will not accept some reloads, the rifling bites into the bullet early and the slide cannot close, cannot push it in any deeper, and it takes a dowel rod to remove the stuck round. This was always with heavier bullets, and you mention the 147 grain so I will ask if this is possibly the issue (rather than a tight chamber). The brass fit in fine, it was all a problem with the heavy, fat bullet not having enough room.

I have seen this also. It seams like some guns don't have a throat or the throat is extremely short. Also, some bullets don't have an ogive that is compatible with some chambers.

OP, if you want a long term solution have a smith run a SAAMI spec 9mm reamer into the chamber. It should fix your problem.

Dolomite

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