The Lead Thread

[camp]

And what do you do with the concoction when you are done?

Dolomite

I pored it in the cast iron pot that I melt my wheel weights in to make ingots, I figure the liquid will evaporate when I heat up the next batch

[RED333]

I would not use this, but that is me. What Would Happen If I Mixed Vinegar And Hydrogen Peroxide Together?

 

 

http://www.blurtit.com/q789922.html

 

 

 

The direct combination of the two substances, hydrogen peroxide and vinegar, produces a strong oxidizing agent known as peracetic acid (also known as peroxyacetic acid, or PAA).

The reaction occurs when hydrogen peroxide reacts with the active component in vinegar, acetic acid.

Peracetic acid is a much weaker acid than the reactant, acetic acid; however, it has different properties and characteristics. Due to its high oxidizing potential, peracetic acid is often used as a sanitizing product. It is effective against a large range of bacteria and, in food, breaks down to acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide, which are considered to be safe and environmentally friendly. This gives the substance application in sanitation of hard surfaces on which food is prepared, wineries and breweries, greenhouse facilities and even directly onto foods such as vegetables, fruits and meat. 

The substance at high concentrations can be highly corrosive and cause irritation to the skin, eyes and respiratory system. Long-term exposures to the substance can cause permanent lung damage.

Susan Sumner, a food scientist at the Virginia Polytechnic and State University, worked out the best way for using the two products as a sanatization product. The proposed method is to keep white or apple cider vinegar in one clean spayer and 3% hydrogen peroxide in another. These used simultaneously killed virtually all salmonella, shigella and e.coli bacteria on contaminated surfaces and food in tests run at the Virginia Polytechnic and State University. This proved the combination of the two mists separately to be more effective at killing bacteria than chlorine bleach or other commercial kitchen cleaners. The tests also proved that the simultaneous use is ten times more effective than using one of the products only and generally more effective than using the two as a mixture.

[camp]

I would not use this, but that is me.

What Would Happen If I Mixed Vinegar And Hydrogen Peroxide Together?
 
 
http://www.blurtit.com/q789922.html
 
 
 
The direct combination of the two substances, hydrogen peroxide and vinegar, produces a strong oxidizing agent known as peracetic acid (also known as peroxyacetic acid, or PAA).
The reaction occurs when hydrogen peroxide reacts with the active component in vinegar, acetic acid.
Peracetic acid is a much weaker acid than the reactant, acetic acid; however, it has different properties and characteristics. Due to its high oxidizing potential, peracetic acid is often used as a sanitizing product. It is effective against a large range of bacteria and, in food, breaks down to acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide, which are considered to be safe and environmentally friendly. This gives the substance application in sanitation of hard surfaces on which food is prepared, wineries and breweries, greenhouse facilities and even directly onto foods such as vegetables, fruits and meat. The substance at high concentrations can be highly corrosive and cause irritation to the skin, eyes and respiratory system. Long-term exposures to the substance can cause permanent lung damage.
Susan Sumner, a food scientist at the Virginia Polytechnic and State University, worked out the best way for using the two products as a sanatization product. The proposed method is to keep white or apple cider vinegar in one clean spayer and 3% hydrogen peroxide in another. These used simultaneously killed virtually all salmonella, shigella and e.coli bacteria on contaminated surfaces and food in tests run at the Virginia Polytechnic and State University. This proved the combination of the two mists separately to be more effective at killing bacteria than chlorine bleach or other commercial kitchen cleaners. The tests also proved that the simultaneous use is ten times more effective than using one of the products only and generally more effective than using the two as a mixture.

Good info, I did not see that at the source that I found the deleading info at, thx

[Guest Fruit jar]

Thanks for the info, I'll try it.

I remember when I was in high school, one of the widow ladies close by called my mom. She was having an ant problem, wanted to know if I could come by and spray for them. So I went to the co-op and got some poison and sprayed around her house. The next day the lady called my mom again. Whatever I had sprayed didn't smell to good. My mom told her, yep, you can't invite ants to a bake sell.

[xd shooter]

I use my own lube in a RCBS lubamatic.

I mix beeswax, carnaba wax, Parafin wax (for color), Vasoline, Johnsons paste wax, & Lanolin.

 

It is working great! i have had absolutly no leading in the 45-70, 444 Marlin, 30-30, 38spl, or 9mm.

 

 

Will try more calibers a little later.

[Wingshooter]

I use my own lube in a RCBS lubamatic.
I mix beeswax, carnaba wax, Parafin wax (for color), Vasoline, Johnsons paste wax, & Lanolin.
 
It is working great! i have had absolutly no leading in the 45-70, 444 Marlin, 30-30, 38spl, or 9mm.
 
 
Will try more calibers a little later.

About equal parts of those ingredients?

[xd shooter]

No sir  I use more beeswax than anything. I will have to check the exact amount & get back with ya.

[timthetoolman]

Caster, great thread and thank you!  I just received most of my casting goodies and have been waiting on a visit from my father to run me through the basics.  I got everything I need to cast for 9mm, 38, 357, 40, 45, and 44mag.  Are any calibers finicky or harder to cast for for any particular reason..  Might be a dumb question, but I'd like to start with the easiest one , if there is one.

[Wingshooter]

I am looking at adding a 44 mold for SBH 44mag. I see the Lee molds come in .429 or .430 which one do you recommend I get for the blackhawk?

[Caster]

Depends on the gun. You'll need to slug the barrel and each cylinder throat to see where you need to be. It will also tell you if you are about to hit a brick wall. Rugers have been known to have SMALLER throats that groove diameter. If that's the case, you're wasting your time until you get that fixed.

Ideally the throat will slightly larger than the barrel so that the bullet can obturate and fill the barrel. If its smaller, the cylinder throat will undersized e bullet and you will never see results.

You'll also need to take a sharpie and mark you cylinder and KNOW the throat diameters of each one. Finding the largest one and working with that will put in the right direction.....unless they are wildly different. Find the largest one, add .001-.002 to that and record it. Then slug the barrel and measure the slug. If its bigger, you may have troubles. If its not, then the corded number should be your sizing diameter. Find an appropriate sizing die or get lucky and find a mold that drops that diameter. Don't rely on what the book says it SHOULD be, know for a fact.

Also know that you are not feasibly going to get a bullet too big. If it will chamber, you should be fine.

Another VERY important thing, pull a bullet from a case before you start shooting. Load your bullet in a case you plan to shoot and then pull it with a kinetic hammer. MEASURE that puppy. It happens often tht the case will swage the bullet undersized, so find out.


It's a pain getting all your ducks in a row but it IS worth it. Just ask any one I've learned from, or any of my loyal acolytes I've had the pleasure of enlightening.

[RED333]

Listen to Caster, He knows what He is talking about.

He got me into casting and has giving me advice on hand loading.

He likes to try things, He has a load for 300 blackout.

I swear you can not feel it kick, all you get is the bang and a hole in the target.

It is SO smooth, scary good stuff.

[Wingshooter]

I just casted my first batch o' boolits. 9mm from a Lee TL356-124-2R using wheel weights. They weigh in at 127gr

 

 

I think most of them need to be redone due to imperfections, but I was getting better results the more I practiced. I am most concerned with the bases. How 'perfect' do they need to be? Some of my first ones are obvious, but others just have a small rough place on the base. Is any imperfection of the base a no-go for leading?

 

 

This one looks worse in this close up photo under light, but should I re-melt something like this...

 

 

 

I need to get a little better 'feel' for how long to let them cool before opening the spru plate. I also need a better ladle. I got the $5 Lee, and I got what I paid for.

 

I think my wife thinks I'm crazy, but I'm having fun with this. I haven't tried my Lee C309-150-F yet, and I plan to add a .44 mold next.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Batman

[xd shooter]

Yes I would remelt that boolit, but that's me I don't like imperfections in my boolits. I actually inspect mine as I'm casting & if I don't like one I just put it back in the pot then.

 

It loks like the bottom band is solid on your boolit & wouuld probably br fine to shoot, myself I go for consistancy.

[RED333]

The bottom of a boolit will have a much greater effect on accuracy than the front.

the gases will puch the boolit off target.

Recast it if you are shooting target or SD, plinking load it and shoot it.

Nice looking boolits there.

No I did not spell it wrong.

 

Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream

graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.

 

Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.

[Wingshooter]

Yes I would remelt that boolit, but that's me I don't like imperfections in my boolits. I actually inspect mine as I'm casting & if I don't like one I just put it back in the pot then.

 

It loks like the bottom band is solid on your boolit & wouuld probably br fine to shoot, myself I go for consistancy.

 

That's what I thought. It didn't look as bad to my eyes, but when took the pic it looked rough. I'm doing this on the back porch, so lighting needs to be improved too.

[Caster]

I would be more concerned with the bases. That last pic is an unacceptable base. They must be square, sharp cornered.

[xd shooter]

Also Batmanwith your Lee Mould be sure to use a lubricant on the bottom of your sprue plate.

 

If you see scratch marks on the top of your mould & lead building up on the bottom of your sprue plate then you can ruin a good mould if your not careful.

 

Email this guy for some Bullplate & follow his directions. It makes casting alot easier. http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

 

This guy also makes a mould lube called Zip lube. I have not tried it but I hear it works great. He is a great guy to deal with as I have bought some lube ingredients from him. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?131679-TAC-1-boolit-lube-mold-sprue-lube

 

I'm not trying to sell either of these items for these guys.  I'm just trying to help out fellow TGO casters.

Edited January 21, 2013 by xd shooter

[Wingshooter]

Thanks. I'll check out those links, XD. I think I'll fire it up again and give it another shot. I'll check the lube on the spru plate

[Caster]

Bump for posterity and renewed interest. Edited March 26, 2013 by Caster

[Troutburger]

Thanks Caster!

[Caster]

Thanks Caster!

 

Sure thing brother!  Hope it helps.

[Ray Z]

Just thought I'd add a couple of tricks that I do to this thread. When I cast I do it outside. I use a 5 gallon bucket of water with a parts strainer in it. {Available at most parts stores}. It just fits inside the bucket and I only have to empty it every 300 bullets or so. After the bullets dry I size and lube my bullets and drop them into a pan just under the luber/sizer. After I have a couple of hundred bullets in the pan I put a 1/4 teaspoon of motor mica [Midway] in the pan and roll them around. It's neutral burning rate, extra lubricating value, and stops the lubed bullets from being sticky, make it a great last step.

[joustin]

I have two molds but haven't had any luck finding lead to cast.

Looking for ammo? I can get anything you need!

[chperry]

This is a great thread.  I am thinking of getting into casting.  I gave up the idea years ago when I was told a 444 Marlin with microgroove barrel would NOT shoot cast bullets accurately.  Recently I read a great series of articles on the subject that pointed the problem to Marlin's barrels being oversized.  You slug the barrel to find the right diameter to cast.  From the articles, 0.432 is the most common size.  The authors had luck driving the bullets at full 444 marlin velocities.  Now I am interested in casting ;-)  I love my 444.

[Caster]

MIcrogroove won't shoot cast accurately?  Well, somebody lied to you.

 

I will say, they are a miserable beast at times, but there IS a combination out there that'll work.  Head over to Cast Boolits forums and do some digging, those guys have the answers.  I have no experience with the cartridge or microgroove barrels but i know it WILL work if you are patient enough to search for the right load.