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The Lead Thread


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Posted (edited)

I kind of figured they'd be inexpensive. I just didn't want to get the wrong kind and sit watching a pot of wheel weights heat up and not melt.

You're gonna want to find something to cover the pot with to hold the heat in while it melts A piece of sheet metal or a pot lid. It makes a HUGE difference.

Edited by Caster
  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)
I have been keeping this thread in the back of my mind since Caster created it. Great info! I recently picked up a Lee TL356-124-2R 9mm mold. It is .356 RN 124gr with 2 ogive radius. So far I have only reloaded one caliber (30-06 factory bullets), so I am a noob at reloading, too. Of course with the factory bullets, you have reloading data. Where do I start for reloading data on hand cast bullets? Does Lee publish data somewhere or do I just find a similar bullet design and weight in my Speer manual and go from there? Maybe I'm over-thinking this.... Edited by Batman
Posted

I use Lee dies, they have a chart for diff weights and for jacketed, lead, solid copper, and others.

I use the lead loads for my cast boolits, I start light and work up, I never go over the max.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok, I ordered the Lyman cast bullet handbook. Just waiting on shipping now.

 

I want to go ahead and pick up up a rifle caliber mold though. I am debating 30-30 or 30-06. Is one easier or better for casting than the other? I am thinking 30-30 might be more prone to deformation in the tubular magazine of a model 94, or does it matter?

Posted (edited)
On a side note , if you have a barrel lead up I have found a cheap and easy way to clean it.

Deleted it as it creates PAA and not recommended for home use Edited by camp
Posted
Ok, I ordered the Lyman cast bullet handbook. Just waiting on shipping now.

 

I want to go ahead and pick up up a rifle caliber mold though. I am debating 30-30 or 30-06. Is one easier or better for casting than the other? I am thinking 30-30 might be more prone to deformation in the tubular magazine of a model 94, or does it matter?

30-30 HAS to be flat or founded real good, 30-06 are pointed, bad idear to load them in a tube end to end.

30-30 fly a 1700 to 1900 FPS, 30-06 a bit faster, 2800 to 3000 FPS

Use a diff boolit for each, but wait for others that are better than me to chime in.

Posted
Well, Reds right. Spitzers are bad juju in a tube, but a good flat point will fly perfectly fine out of an '06. Were I to suggest a good mold for you to cut your teeth on, I'd say Lees C309-170-F I've found lees heavier bullets to be rather large on the nose and act like a bore rider. That can be really good if they fit the throat, but often I have seen they don't.
Posted

Thanks, I'll check out that mold. I didn't really word my previous post very well. I know not to put the pointy ones in a tube, but I guess I was just wandering if a tube magazine works as well as a bolt gun with cast boolits. I keep thinking of the soft lead deforming, but it sounds like the water quenching would take care of that.

 

I didn't really consider using a flat point in my '06, so that type of mold will get me in the casting game with both of those rifles. It's out of stock at MidwayUSA, so now I just have to find it.

 

All excellent info!

Posted

See, I told ya someone better at this would chime in, Caster showed me the ropes on casting.

Posted
[quote name="RED333" post="871926" timestamp="1356843259"]See, I told ya someone better at this would chime in, Caster showed me the ropes on casting.[/quote] Only enough to tie a noose from. It's up to hang yourself. Lol
Posted
[quote name="Batman" post="871933" timestamp="1356843886"]I have a lot of learning ahead of me, but I'm anxious to get started.[/quote] You're so screwed. This is worse than heroine. I laugh at myself because I honestly enjoy this more than shooting them. Seriously.
Guest Fruit jar
Posted
My granddad cast bearings for locomotives. My dad cast bearings at Dover elevator. My uncle would cast bullets and sinkers. I have his molds, but don't cast that much.
Posted
My granddad cast bearings for locomotives. My dad cast bearings at Dover elevator. My uncle would cast bullets and sinkers. I have his molds, but don't cast that much.

You should start, it aint bad thing to get started, the molds are the big money part of this sport.

Guest Fruit jar
Posted

Oh I do cast. I have 19 sinker and jig molds, still looking at more. I have 2 new ones headed my way. 11 pistol bullet molds., Lee, Lyman, Ideal and a 3 cav. that doesn't have a name on it. It's in bad shape, the bullets are badly pitted. I used a bore brush in a drill with oil. It's cleared of rust but cast pitted bullets. 1 Ideal single hollow point mold. The point is 3/8" deep, I haven't cast or weighed the bullet. It's longer than a 158 gr. swc.

Posted

How bout a pic or 2 for us pic hounds?

Molds got any numbers on them, google search might give info about them.

On the mold that cast pitted boolits, please post a pic of that one, the cavity.

Guest Fruit jar
Posted

Pic will have to wait. I don't have a camera, wouldn't know how to upload a pic. Got a new phone for christmas and have yet learned how to answer it.

Ya'll know how estate sales work? Sat. sale is top dollar, sun. sale maybe half of that. Monday, call and see what's left, get it dirt cheap. My sister called me about one. Gave me the lot number of the items. I called this morning, I couldn't believe 5 buckets of lead were still there. I offered them $20. per bucket, I'll drive some 100 miles and pick it up after lunch.

Posted
[quote name="camp" post="871727" timestamp="1356829217"]On a side note , if you have a barrel lead up I have found a cheap and easy way to clean it. Plug the muzzle end ( I used packing tape) and then fill the barrel with a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar And then let it sit for 20 min , repeat as needed[/quote] And what do you do with the concoction when you are done? Dolomite
Posted

How about talking about lubing and sizing? I've been using a star luber sizer + heater for a ling time. Before that I used a lyman. I have always used the 50/50 alox NRA lube. Once I tried a [hard] lube to see if it smoked less. Lots of barrel leading and it didn't cut the smoke down much. What do you suggest/ use.

Guest Fruit jar
Posted

Back home from the lead haul, but first.

I got the mold out and looked it over. I found a rough spot on the side of the mold, ran over it with some 360 sand paper, 358B   146. I found a rough spot on the metal handle at the metal sleeve on the wood handle, Hensley & Gibbs San Diego, CAL

I think it's a .358, 146, wc. I'll cast a few more, weigh them, size them and see how they look. There ought to someone over here soon that can take pictures and post them for me.

 

Now the lead haul. These sellers don't have a clue of what they had. I looked in the book, black press, 4 boxes labeled 38, 357, 44m and 45c, sold $40. I'm thinking C & H products, collector items, 44m- 44 mag., 45c- 45 colt. Old american made products the will last for years. Replaced by the cheap stuff we have today.

2 5 gallon buckets with lids labeled IWW, ingot wheel weight? each ingot was stamped WW. 2 5 gallon buckets labeled scrap ww, fresh wheel weights. 1 5 gallon bucket labeled MIL, I found some ingots stamped XL, PL, BL. No clue of what that would be. I was thinking about it all the way home.

Posted
I tumble lube using a 45/45/10 mix of Lee liquid Alex, rendered Johnson's paste wax & odorless mineral spirits. Less mess, dries faster, not stick afterwards and goes a looooooooong way. For bullets with regular lube grooves I pan lube with my own homemade lube made from beeswax, Lucas red and tacky grease, STP oil treatment, ATF, and Johnson's Paste Wax.

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