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agreed. I'm a fan of SureFire but AAC will work too.....or any of the other reputable can companies. I know the YHM is cheaper initially but try and think long term. Most people that have been doing this have learned the hard way. I started out cheap but ended up spending more money in the long run replacing the cheap stuff with the better (more expensive, ususally) stuff. Weapons, like most other things in life, you get what you pay for.

Really, since it's just a FH.....stick with the A2 until you decide for sure on what kind of can you want. Once you have one NFA item......:)

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Before you cut anything, completely unload your handgun. Double check it to be sure its unloaded. Come to a firm hard ready, with the muzzle touching a wall. Look down and put tape on the floor at the tip of your shoe.

Now, repeat this with the rifle you are getting ready to cut off. Again put tape on the floor at the the tip of your shoe. I bet they are in the same place. Is it really worth cutting and loosing bullet speed?

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Oh ok, got it. I've heard they work pretty well?
Makes my 7.5" run like a champ. Increases back-pressure to improve cycling with really short barrels, with the added benefit of directing sound and concussion forward and away from the shooter.
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So it's a must for sbr's then?
No. A properly-tuned SBR from a manufacturer that knows what they're doing will run just fine. For extremely short barrels, however, the KX3 sure doesn't hurt. As I mentioned earlier, it also gives you the added benefits of faux sound suppression (although you're not supposed to talk about it...lol) and mitigated concussion. This is a big deal to some shooters, because SBR's are OBNOXIOUS.
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The KX3 has a outer shell and then a "V" shaped baffle that faces torwards the muzzle. As the bullet exits the gases go between the outer shell and the "V" baffle. This holds the gases up for a fraction of a second, reducing the concussion normally felt by other flash hiders.

I have used them and they work extremely well. You will not see much of a benefit on a 16" or longer barrel but on the shorter barrels it keeps the blast down.

I even called and asked if they would make a baffle with a 22 caliber hole to make it more efficient and they said they wouldn't. They said they would need to go through the approval process again. And realistically having a 22 caliber hole in it and shooting a 22 caliber bullet it would work a lot better. So much so it would probably be reclassed as a can. I know if you were to use a KX3 with a 22 baffle on a 22 rimfire it would definitely quiet it down.

Adding the KX3 is like adding 2" to the barrel length because of the extra back pressure. I have talked to numerous builders who say if you are having cycling issues try a KX3. If it resolves the issue then they say to go up one drill size on the port.

Dolomite

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Well I guess I will add that to my list of parts then. I have shot next to some pretty obnoxious guns with and concussions, and I can see why some shooters don't like that. Like shooting today, there was a guy with a Desert Eagle at an indoor range. That was annoying.

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Adding the KX3 is like adding 2" to the barrel length because of the extra back pressure. I have talked to numerous builders who say if you are having cycling issues try a KX3. If it resolves the issue then they say to go up one drill size on the port.

Dolomite

Why go up one drill size if the cycling issue is solved by the KX3?

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Why go up one drill size if the cycling issue is solved by the KX3?
If you're having cycling issues that are resolved by the KX3, then it tells you that the issues are gas-related. The ports need to be opened up, because the gun was never properly tuned in the first place.
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If you're having cycling issues that are resolved by the KX3, then it tells you that the issues are gas-related. The ports need to be opened up, because the gun was never properly tuned in the first place.

Okay, I get what you're saying. Well hell, if you go through the money to buy the KX3 you might as well leave it on there, right?

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