AR15 assembly questions

[Guest nashnoob]

Just got a new stripped lower and would like to start assembling my own EBR. Hope someone can help me with some questions.

1) I have a DPMS lower, would a DPMS lpk be a better fit than those from other manufacturers?

2) Should I grease up the roll pins before I hammer them in? or is this a dumb idea?

3) If I buy a used upper from AR15's equipment exchange, would it be a problem to use a new bolt assembly with it?

Thanks for any help.

[awdbandito]

1) Use the cheapest LPK you can find. As long as it is made to spec you will be fine.

2)I always use a little moly grease when assembling my lowers.

3)If the upper is extremely worn, you might want to run a set of go/no go gauges through it with a new bolt and carrier. I've gone through many uppers and have never had one come up outside of spec, even when using an old SP1 upper with a brand new bolt and carrier.

[Rightwinger]

Any quality lower parts kits should work. (I prefer Rock River 2 stage)

Don't bother greasing or oiling the roll pins, they like to get away as it is! Don't add to your problems. Protect all the areas around your lower where your going to be tapping on the pins. Masking or electrical tape will work. Make sure you have a bronze hammer and punches to tap on in.

If you haven't already found it, use the step by step guide on ARFCOM

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

A new bolt and carrier group should work with no issues as long as its a quality one to mil spec. Check how much wear is on the original as it is also wearing to the lugs in the chamber and extension. If its really worn you may want to look elsewhere or plan on putting a new barrel and extension on it to match well to your new bolt. When you get down to it, a brand new upper (RRA, STAG, DPMS, etc) isn't much more than what you would pay piecing it together after you add shipping

[Guest nashnoob]

Thanks for the help guys. Have a few more questions. Is it alright to use a steel hammer instead of a brass one? I have a small ball peen hammer but it's steel not brass. I got some steel punches from Lowe's. I went through the guide at ar15 and it seems like the only punches I need are 1/8 , 3/32 and 5/32.

[Guest sling]

You can use any type of hammer you want.. The point of the bronze or brass hammer is simply to keep you from scratching the reciever.

Frankly, i started the roll pins in with a soft hammer and then used a pair of pliars and pressed the pins in VERY carefully. Easiest with for me without a jig.

[Guest nashnoob]

This is probably the dumbest question ever but where locally (Nashville) can I find brass hammers and roll pin punches? I found only steel punches at Lowe's and they didn't have any brass hammers too. Thanks.

[Guest CrazyLincoln]

I *think* harbor freight has brass hammers, but I could be wrong.

[R1100R]

You can use steel punches. At Harbour freight tools or the one at cheap tool shop at

Opry Mills you can find all kinds of punches to include brass hammers. They are not

expensive either.

[Rightwinger]

Pressing the roll pins in is a valid method of installation. Its even shown on ARFCOM with a pair of vice grips taped up to prevent scratches. Just beware of putting the trigger guard pin in. Those two small extensions from the receiver don't take pressure well and you'll end up breaking one of the wings off ! !

The hammer thing is just a precaution against marring your receiver. Even with a brass hammer if you strike the body, "that's gonna leave a mark".

You can buy a kit from Cheaper Than dirt that pretty nice. I think I have seen it listed for less eleswhere but that's where I bought mine a few years back.

http://cheaperthandirt.com/TOOL502-923-902.html

[awdbandito]

For my first build I used a claw hammer and an old nail as a punch, just put heavy duct tape on the receiver to prevent marring it. If a 9 year old afghani kid can build an AK, any of us should be able to put an AR together pretty easily. Just put it together and shoot the hell out of it!

[Guest nashnoob]

Thanks for all the help and encouragement guys. This is more intimidating that I thought it would be. The fact that I'm all thumbs does not help. I'm gonna do it this weekend, hopefully it will go well.

[Auburn]

I put off building my first lower until someone could help me. Then this week I said screw it, I'll try it myself and see what happens. It really wasn't hard at all. Between the two sets of instructions on ARFCOM you can breeze right through it. As promised, the only real pain was the spring & detente on the front pivot pin. Someone suggested doing that one under a blanket to make it easier to find when it launches...that was a very helpful tip. After five or six tries I finally managed to hold it in long enough to get the pivot pin inserted. What a PITA.

I tapped all the other pins in using a punch and the handle of a screwdriver....didn't even use a hammer. Lowes sells a 3-pack of punches for $10 that worked real well.

Anyway, everything seems to work. I think my next lower assembly will be about a 20 minute job.