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What have I got myself in to?!


IggyBcool

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Posted

Left to right - .243, 30-06, and my new 300RUM. Picked up a Remington 700 Stainless 300RUM. Just had a few questions: What should I sight my scope in at for 100 yards to make a good solid 3-500 yard shot? What are some good first mods to this 700?

Posted

Surprisingly it comes with a very nice squishy recoil pad :mad:

What kind of optics should I look in to that will hold the power of the RUM? Also a good magnification that will be suitable for hunting but will also be good for long range plinking? 500+yards.

Posted

I have the 300 Weatherby, according to chuck hawks this is the trajectory tables comparing the two,

[TABLE]

[TR]

[TD]Cartridge (Wb@MV)[/TD]

[TD]Bullet BC[/TD]

[TD]100 yds.[/TD]

[TD]200 yds.[/TD]

[TD]MRT@yds.[/TD]

[TD]MPBR (yds.)

[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[TABLE]

[TR]

[TD].300 Wby. Mag. (180 Sp at 3250)[/TD]

[TD].483[/TD]

[TD]+2.4"[/TD]

[TD]+2.6"[/TD]

[TD]3"@155[/TD]

[TD]320[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD].300 Ultra Mag (180 Sp at 3250)[/TD]

[TD].483[/TD]

[TD]+2.4"[/TD]

[TD]+2.6"[/TD]

[TD]3"@155[/TD]

[TD]320[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

Guest GunTroll
Posted
Left to right - .243, 30-06, and my new 300RUM. Picked up a Remington 700 Stainless 300RUM. Just had a few questions: What should I sight my scope in at for 100 yards to make a good solid 3-500 yard shot? What are some good first mods to this 700?

What model did you get?

Posted (edited)

Here's the dope for a Remington factory round with a 180gr Nosler Partition bullet. Scope zeroed at 100. If you're going to shoot out past what Chuck Hawks calls the "maximum point blank range", then you'll have to use some method to compensate for bullet drop. My personal favorite is to dial the drop into a scope with target turrets with the scope zeroed at 100. You gotta know the range, but will have to anyway if your not gonna just lob Hail Marys at the target.

300RUMElevationdope-1.jpg

Edited by mikegideon
Posted

Got the Rem 700 ADL. I had been wanting a 300 for a while now and Sportmans Warehouse had a jam up deal going so I went a head and pulled the trigger..literally lol.

I got it bore-sighted while there and went to the range today and set up a target at 25yards and grouped a quarter at two inches right and an inch high. I was like that seems close enough... So I set the target up at 100 and moved the power to 9 and fired two shots that didn't even hit paper. So I brought it back to 25 and shot one on 9 at 25 and it was barely on the paper.

What gives? How does adjusting the power of the scope throw off the shot that bad?

Posted

Before I shot I made sure everything was snug.. Great... Looks like wasted a box of shells for nothing then lol. Guess I'll just continue to hunt with this 30-06 that bit me today and put the 300 in the safe until I can afford to put a good scope and base on it.

Posted
Before I shot I made sure everything was snug.. Great... Looks like wasted a box of shells for nothing then lol. Guess I'll just continue to hunt with this 30-06 that bit me today and put the 300 in the safe until I can afford to put a good scope and base on it.

You need blue loctite on the ring screws and the base screws, especially with that much recoil. I've had hardware fall off a Mini 14, and that's NO recoil compare to a big magnum. Since I have a lot of scopes, it was worth it to me to buy a Fat Wrench. I Loctite and torque every screw on my scope hardware.

You may just have a scope that won't hold zero, but I would check all the screws and see if anything backed out.

Guest GunTroll
Posted

I've seen a simmons lens crack from a 300 ultra. They warranted though and now it has a home on a .17HMR

Posted

Just the cheapo Remington scope that came with the package. Which I'm sure explains it, but I figured that it would at least be a "decent" better than nothing kind of thing for time being. Guess not.

Posted

For you to make accurate range cards or get accurate holdover information you need to find what ammo you are going to use and then fire it across a chronograph. In all the factory ammo I have fired across my chronograph none have lived up the advertised numbers. And without the correct velocity you are just guessing at ballistics.

The only other way to determine correct holdover is to actually get out and shoot it at various distances. But that information is only good for that area and on that day. It will change with weather conditions such as temperature, humidity and pressure. Also, elevation can have an impact on ballistics as well.

But when shooting across a chronograph and getting velocity at 10 feet from the muzzle you can use that number to figure out all the ballistics for all the different areas and conditions you might hunt in.

Not sure how often you make it to Knoxville but if you are ever in the area bring your rifle and you can shoot it across my chronograph.

Dolomite

Posted

And when mounting a scope make sure it is as far forward in the slots as possible when tightening. This keeps it from moving under recoil. I normally set the weapon on its muzzle to do the tightening of the scope rings.

Dolomite

Posted
For you to make accurate range cards or get accurate holdover information you need to find what ammo you are going to use and then fire it across a chronograph. In all the factory ammo I have fired across my chronograph none have lived up the advertised numbers. And without the correct velocity you are just guessing at ballistics.

Dolomite

I have an exception to that rule. I have some Black Hills stuff that's dead on. I was using a 24" barrel though, so it should have been real close

Posted

With the recoil of rifle like that you need a well made scope. I would recommend a good used Leupold. They have a lifetime warranty that they actually honor so I have never gone wrong with them. Plus they are really good scopes. I would look for a 4-12x40 or even bigger unless I was going to be hunting in heavy cover.

Posted

Dolo, I actually used to live in Knoxville for school, what parts are you in? I'll actually be there this weekend visiting my old roommates..unfortunately, I found the culprit.. It was my base and rings. They were "snug" and before I started they were tight tight. Oh well guess I'm just going to put it in the safe and wait to tinker with it until I can afford to put a scope and a good base on it. No point in wasting more money slinging rounds through it.

I did how ever find another problem thats bugging the absolute **** out of me. The scope thats on it and the base, is adjusted as far back as it comes and when I shoulder the rifle I'm having to actually move my head up about 4 inches. Will a different base resolve this problem or is this going to be an ongoing issue due to the ejection port length?

Posted

I am about 20 minutes east of Knoxville.

When you do make it we can shoot here at my house to get the rounds chronographed. You will be surprized at how much of a difference there is. Even between like guns the velocity can be different.

Dolomite

Guest 556or762
Posted

I would have to say save esome money and buy a good one piece steel scope base you might even consider a base with some elevation built in I buy all mine with 20moa and then a quality optic like previously stated, that big magnum is gonna smack the crap out of a scope might as well buy a good one once if you buy a cheap one you might buy 10 before you get it to last. I might have to go check out a big caliber bolt gun for my next project I am getting buned out on assault rifles I have enough for "WHEN THEY COME" ! lol

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