need help with my work bench

[my82cam]

Well, I am finally getting around to building my work bench for my garage. It is 14 feet long and 2 feet wide, it has a 2ftx2ft section that comes off of one end of it making it almost an "L" shape. right now I have 3/4inch plywood for the top; I am looking for ideas to make a nice top for it. I was thinking of the 3/4 inch MDF plywood I can get at lowes, but not sure that is the best idea. thought I would ask here before I spent anymore money. lol pics to follow when it is done

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Are you planning to double the plywood on top for a 1.5" thick top? IOW, the 3/4 inch plywood you already installed, and then another layer on-top of that?

What is the purpose for the work bench? Single-purpose like reloading? Or many possible purposes? If you build the bench good you may find many uses over the years before it wears out.

I built some workbenches 30 years ago that still work fine, which were screwed'n'glued pine 2X4 framework with that "chipboard" plywood screwed down on-top. I think it is usually called OSB plywood--

Oriented strand board - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Didn't paint them or finish the surface and they are still in good shape. Have used em for electronics (lay pieces of carpet on places where chassis are handled, to prevent sheet metal scratches on the paint job). Also used to bind software manuals and shrink-wrap packages and other assorted purposes, and today they are the reloading benches.

Made some other old workbenches that look a little better that have a supporting frame with painted doors for the top. Doors are not made as good nowadays and dunno if a modern door would still be good for that purpose, unless you overlay them with some plywood or whatever. In that case it would be silly to use a door at all, if you also need to use sheets of plywood.

Have made several woodworking and power tool benches the last few years that are 3/4" plywood boxes about 12" tall, using prefab steel stands for "legs" under the benches. The prefab stands were reinforced with scrap stick wood so there is no wobble, and the boxes have various internal bracing so the tops are rigid and the 12" 'insides' are used on all sides for shelves or drawers. Those are also unpainted raw wood surfaces. They have absorbed various glue, stain, and paints and don't look very pretty, but have worked great. The main big bench for assembling cabinets, a couple of times has accumulated so much paint and glue that they got too rough on-top. Easy fix just smooth em out with a belt sander.

Just sayin, if the benches are gonna get heavy rough use, then maybe it isn't worth putting a nice surface on-top? I always figured if any of my benches get too rough on-top or if I want em to look better I can glue-on laminate any time. Kitchen counter laminate is really tough stuff, probably tougher than the laminate on the MDF plywood.

Maybe there would be a better way, but I'd be tempted to sand smooth the top, prime it with a couple of coats of something hard like gripper primer, then contact-cement down the laminate. Cut the laminate a little big then trim it smooth with a router.

This article describes it, but there are probably better articles. It is pretty easy to do unless if you are trying to please a picky wife.

HOMETIME HOW TO, Kitchens - Remodeling Kitchens: Laminate Counters

[mikegideon]

1/4" masonite makes a real good surface. That's probably what I'll use when I replace my makeshift reloading bench. Havent decided how much plywood thickness I'll put underneath it.

[quietguy]

As Lester stated, the function of the bench is a critical factor. If you are just doing gun cleaning and minor mods, then just about anything will work. If you plan to reload, then you will want a more solid surface to mount your equipment. If you want to get into metalwork or woodworking, then your requirements will be different.

[Guest PapaB]

MDF is a solid, heavy and flat surface that makes really good workbench tops. Whatever you use, top it off with 1/4" masonite as mikegideon mentioned. The masonite is a good smooth sacrificial surface that can be attached with small headed screws and replaced as needed.

[enfield]

If you ever want to move that monster, consider the weight now . . . especially if you use a 1.5" plywood top. I think I'd rather have two 7 foot benches than one 14 footer.

Just food for thought . . .

[analog_kidd]

I used 3/4 MDF on my workshop bench. I don't use this bench for my reloading, just workshop projects. One thnig I did with mine is not screw down the MDF to the bench. This way I can slide out the top a bit and have a place to use for clamping things and push it back when done. Works for me, your mileage may differ.

Of course I rarely get to see my bench top. It is a flat surface and I have a bad habit of piling things up on flat surfaces

[oldogy]

As mentioned, intended use would dictate construction. Think years ahead. For absolute cleanliness consider a section of metal working surface. If you're going to have a sizable vice installed, attach the bench to the wall solidly. Sooner or later you'll have a project where you want a solid heavy duty bench, a place to anchor a project and pull or push. Good lighting and ample electrical outlets are important.

oldogy

[my82cam]

the work bench will hold my reloading press, heavy duty vice and grinder. i'm a mechanic so it will get used for home car work when i don't feel like driving to my shop for minor repairs, also for wood working. the frame is made of 2x8s and it is attached to the walls at every stud with least 2 3.5 inche deck screws, it also has 2x4 legs supporting it along the wall and also several 2x4 legs on the front side. it is very sold just with the 3/4 plywood and i am planning on having at least 1.5 inches of top surface. i never heard or thought about masonite, where can i get this stuff? lowes?

[my82cam]

as far as lighting goes, i am going to put up several new 8 foot lights and also i have an electrical strip running half the length of the bench. just need to finish the top and i am ready to move in!

[quietguy]

MDF is great, but be careful with solvents and moisture. If you paint or seal it (especially the edges), you shouldn't have any problems.

[peejman]

MDF board works well. Lowes/Home Depot will have masonite (or their version of it) as well. You can also find sections of laminate counter tops cheap at salvage places, which is what I used for my work bench. If there's a kitchen cabinet place near you, sometimes they'll have big broken pieces you can cut down pretty cheap.

I'd extend that power strip the whole length and run it underneath. You don't want power cords draped across whatever you're working on. And make sure the circuit it's attached to is up to the task.

Consider plumbing in air lines. Compressed air is really handy, not to mention air tools.

Build in shelves under the work bench. You never have enough storage.

[shaftbass]

I used some peel and stick tile for my workbench's surface. It has taken plenty of gun/automotive chemicals with no problems. If a tile gets messed up, buy another one for $2 at Home Depot. I looked all over for a nice piece of stainless steel for the work surface, but it was going to take an act of Congress and a bunch of money to get one cut to the size I needed.

[my82cam]

i like the tile idea, hmm

[mikegideon]

i like the tile idea, hmm

Only one problem I can see. You are gonna be mopping up powder, no matter how careful you are. The tile will have some cracks.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Sounds like my82cam's bench is built real heavy-duty.

Though mdf can break, dent, or powder out pretty easy if abused, it is nice dense and non-resonant and has a nice smooth surface making it easy to glue laminate or tile on. I don't like mdf because it is too easy to break and crazy heavy if there is a chance of needing to move the stuff, but it has lots of advantages too.

edit: I'm not expert on any of this stuff, but have gone thru a lot of plywood the last few years. The "hardwood veneer" furniture grade plywood from Home Depot or Lowes is softer and easier to bang up than the construction-grade exterior 3/4" plywood. The construction-grade plywood ain't near as pretty but it is a lot harder and less likely to show abuse.

Edited November 23, 2011 by Lester Weevils

[mikegideon]

Sounds like my82cam's bench is built real heavy-duty.

Though mdf can break, dent, or powder out pretty easy if abused, it is nice dense and non-resonant and has a nice smooth surface making it easy to glue laminate or tile on. I don't like mdf because it is too easy to break and crazy heavy if there is a chance of needing to move the stuff, but it has lots of advantages too.

I wouldn't use it in a garage, because it hates moisture. I'm lucky... my reloading are is in the house.

[TGO David]

I'd recommend going to Lowes, Home Depot or even a salvage store and buying some Formica counter top with backsplash and using that as your work surface. Cleans up great and the backsplash keeps small parts from rolling off the back of the table and down behind your bench where the spiders are going to take up residence.

My bench is built with a double layer of 3/4" plywood as a top and then the Formica counter top is screwed down to it from beneath. I've got two six-foot sections end to end.

[Caster]

I doubled the 3/4 as well with the top layer being cabinet grade birch plywood. I didn't really want to finish it, but I did rub it down lightly with some Johnsons Paste wax to keep crap from soaking in. It's rock solid though I never beat on it. Having my scales and other stuff on there, I'd rather not pound it. That's why you take and old wheel from a dually truck, weld in a length of schedule 80 pipe, then fill pipe and wheel with cement. When dry I welded a small anvil from harbor freight to the top of it.

Good luck!

[Guest 6.8 AR]

I'd recommend going to Lowes, Home Depot or even a salvage store and buying some Formica counter top with backsplash and using that as your work surface. Cleans up great and the backsplash keeps small parts from rolling off the back of the table and down behind your bench where the spiders are going to take up residence.

My bench is built with a double layer of 3/4" plywood as a top and then the Formica counter top is screwed down to it from beneath. I've got two six-foot sections end to end.

I would have done that, also, except I had a hospital fire door laying around. They are durable and heavy

with a laminate surface. Just no backsplash. Countertops are cheap, especially if you can find one that was

cut wrong for a customer and is discounted. My fire door weighs a ton and is supported by 4X4 posts. I'm

migrating the non reloading stuff to it to free up the other fire door table. My reloading bench is made up of

an old base cabinet with another piece of fire door. I commandeered most of the basement for my gun room.

[my82cam]

thanks for all of the ideas guys. i think i am going to pass on the tile, i saw where a guy used the wax stile mdf and waxed it, he said it works great and if and when it gets messed up, take the top layer off and replaced as needed, not a bad idea. i will post pictures when i get everything done and show ready!

[Guest PapaB]

Masonite, also called hardboard, is available from Lowes and most places that sell lumber. It comes in 4' x 8' sheets and is usually available in 2 thicknesses. It's the basis for pegboard which is just masonite with a lot of predrilled holes. One side is usually textured and the other is smooth and slick. Use the thicker panels for a benchtop, less likely to warp and will last longer..

Shop DPI 3/16"D x 4'W x 8'H Brown Hardboard Wall Panel at Lowes.com

Edited November 24, 2011 by PapaB

[Guest Lester Weevils]

That is a neat idea using masonite for a "sacrificial" workbench surface. Easy to replace and not especially expensive.

Guess the reason I've never tried to finish most of my workbenches, is not wanting to put in something so nice I'd have to be extra careful to avoid getting it all scratched up.