Educate me on the 686

[daddyo]

On the hunt for a good deal on a Smith 686; preferably nothing longer than a 4" barrel without the internal lock.

So what are the most desirable 686's to have? I'm not a collector, just looking for something I can enjoy shooting, and something that looks good too.

[SonnyCrockett]

not much to educate..Early versions have no locks IE: 686-0 686-1 etc....

Also,19s,66s and many others have no locks...I have a 686P w a lock,its my range gun,works fine

7 rounds but not a collectible by any means..I like em all as long as it says S&W!

good luck

[Garufa]

There was a recall issued for No dash and -1 686's, along with others in the same family, due to cylinder binding issues under heavy loads. A gun sent back and repaired under the recall has an M stamped next to the model number. Not a deal killer and not an issue they all had based on what I've heard.

You can google 686 recall for more info.

[Magiccarpetrides]

686's are great, but they are expensive...there's no such thing as a cheap 4" 686 unless you run across someone who doesn't know what they have...if you are buying it to use and abuse get a lock model because the lock can be removed if your worried about it and it will save you money.

[TNWNGR]

Garufa pretty well covered the basic's, the 586/686 are L-Frame revolver's, slightly larger and stronger than the K-Frame. They came about due to the Model 19's reported problems with flame cutting and shooting loose with a heavy diet of magnum round's. I've owned a couple and consider them to be a first class revolver but still prefer the M-19 and M-13 for general use. If I want something a bit stouter I'll shoot my M-27 or will hunt up a M-28.

[Guest jkb4c]

I just acquired a 686-4 at the gunshow this last weekend. The -4 model seems like it has the best of both worlds; no internal lock and no MIM parts (if you care about that sort of thing). I believe S&W started using some MIM internals with the -5.

Anyway, I picked the best of 4 at the table, and I'm supremely happy with it. My first S&W in a stable full of Rugers

Edited January 9, 2012 by jkb4c

[DaveTN]

The 686 is an excellent revolver. It was the King of Police duty weapons prior to everyone switching to semi-autos.

The 686 is still in production, so it’s not really what I would consider a collector gun. All Smith & Wesson revolvers will hold their value. A Pre-Lock is more desirable to some, but there isn’t much difference in price.

The most important thing you need to check is the mechanics of that particular gun and whether or not Bubba has had his hands in it.

Things like Lock-up, end shake, and timing will impact price more than whether it’s a pre-lock or a dash “whateverâ€.

Here are some pointers on what to look for. You can do a search and there are some pretty in-depth articles on how and what to check.

Revolver Checkout Procedure

[MarkInNashville]

I own a 686-2 4", bought it new in southern Mississippi. I was in the Navy at the time and a reserve deputy (the sheriff was an old state trouper so we had to carry a wheel gun). Its a wonderful firearm, due to the weight it is easily controlled even shooting the most potent loads! Newer models are 7 shots but the older ones are 6.

Daddy O - if you have any specific questions, fire away (so to speak). If your interested in playing with one let me know.

[Bassoneer]

I have one of the 686-4 Plus models and it is my favorite gun of all time. I have also owned a -3 and a -6 and they were great guns also. The 686 is really a great gun and you will love being able to shoot any modern ammo through it without worries...it is a beast, but with a very nice action and very accurate. Good luck on your hunt...if you can find one at the price paid by jkb4c (noted above) then you will have it made (call me if they have two and I'll come buy another one at that price). B

[MarkInNashville]

That grip sure does look nice compared to the one I have! I bet that thing feels really good in your hand!

[Bassoneer]

That grip sure does look nice compared to the one I have! I bet that thing feels really good in your hand!

Thanks for the compliment on the grips. Those were made by Kim Ahrend...you can find them on ebay and some other places, or can order them directly from Ahrend's grips over the web as I did. These have the optional oil finish which is supposed to feel better, be more durable, etc. They are beautiful grips and do feel nice, but honestly, after trying several types of grips, I think I like the Uncle Mike's Rubber grips best for shooting at the range. Thanks again, B

[Glenn]

I have a 686-3 stainless snubnose I bought used. It has a really nice trigger, but I get an occasional ftf with some cheap .38s. Never with .357s though.

Glenn

[daddyo]

Some great information. Thanks to all of you.

[Guest vthokies03]

Newer models are 7 shots but the older ones are 6.

not true, smith is currently making both models. The ones with 7 shots are 686 Plus models, the 6 shots are just 686s

[Guest motonut]

I'm the original owner of a 686 (no dash) 4" that I bought in 1987 (apx) for about $330. Still have the original box too. Great gun, even makes me look like a good shot. Run many different types of ammo through it and never a problem. After reading up on the recall on the S&W forum I'm not bothering to send it back.

Love it.

[shaftbass]

I have an earlier model that, to my knowledge, was polished at the factory. It is a mirror stainless finish. Every piece. It feels much smoother than any other revolver I've shot, leading me to believe that at some point in its life it has had some work done to it. I love this revolver, and it's the only gun I own that I would never consider selling. It has the firing pin on the hammer and does not have a lock. Also has the full cylinder release button. 6 shot, .357 Mag.

[Bassoneer]

I have an earlier model that, to my knowledge, was polished at the factory. It is a mirror stainless finish. Every piece. It feels much smoother than any other revolver I've shot, leading me to believe that at some point in its life it has had some work done to it. I love this revolver, and it's the only gun I own that I would never consider selling. It has the firing pin on the hammer and does not have a lock. Also has the full cylinder release button. 6 shot, .357 Mag.

That's a beautiful gun. Just by chance, is it a Nickel Plated 586? The 586 model is exactly the same as the 686 except it comes either blued or stainless...just curious. I have seen them polished though and that is the way I like them. I usually use Mother's Mag Polish and an old tee shirt to polish them up. Later, B

[shaftbass]

Thanks! I have had it 9 years. It was my first carry gun.. when I was 22 and weighed about a buck fiddy.. carried in a snapless quick draw crossdraw holster Needless to say it was a bit much to conceal.

Anyway, it is a 686. On the frame just below the serial number, it reads, "MOD 686-4."

I wonder if you're right about it being nickel instead of stainless, though. If it's nickel, Im surprised at the quality of the plating. There is NO evidence anywhere of any chipping. Where the top of the frame/barrel is matte, there is no noticeable transition between matte and shiny. This alone led me to believe that it's just polished, but reading around, most S&W's that look like this are nickel plated, and the polshed models aren't anywhere near this shiny.

It could be an aftermarket job, as the trigger and hammer have also been polished or plated. I have not seen this in any other pics of S&W plated or polished revolvers.

[Garufa]

Nevermind.

[Bassoneer]

Thanks! I have had it 9 years. It was my first carry gun.. when I was 22 and weighed about a buck fiddy.. carried in a snapless quick draw crossdraw holster Needless to say it was a bit much to conceal.

Anyway, it is a 686. On the frame just below the serial number, it reads, "MOD 686-4."

I wonder if you're right about it being nickel instead of stainless, though. If it's nickel, Im surprised at the quality of the plating. There is NO evidence anywhere of any chipping. Where the top of the frame/barrel is matte, there is no noticeable transition between matte and shiny. This alone led me to believe that it's just polished, but reading around, most S&W's that look like this are nickel plated, and the polshed models aren't anywhere near this shiny.

It could be an aftermarket job, as the trigger and hammer have also been polished or plated. I have not seen this in any other pics of S&W plated or polished revolvers.

You're right...if it says 686-4 it should be Stainless Steel...same model as mine. I love the highly polished ones and yes, you can make them look like a mirror (like the nickle ones). I hope mine looks as good some day after years of hand polishing, but I'm leaving the hammer and trigger dark on mine. I have a 3" SS Ruger GP100 that has the original brushed finish, and it seems a little rougher than the Smiths, but I intend to polish it some day (when I get around to it). Thanks again for the nice photo, B

[Bassoneer]

I have a 686-3 stainless snubnose I bought used. It has a really nice trigger, but I get an occasional ftf with some cheap .38s. Never with .357s though.

Glenn

Glenn,

There is a small tension adjustment screw under your grips on the front side of the frame (below the trigger guard). Make sure that is tightened all the way in...that will make sure the proper tension is applied to a piece of spring steel (located inside the grips) and that your hammer falls on the primer with the full force designed by S&W to ensure your primers ignite. You should not be getting FTF with this type of revolver...let us know if this screw was loose. If not, suggest you try a different brand of ammo. Best of luck, B

[Glenn]

Glenn,

There is a small tension adjustment screw under your grips on the front side of the frame (below the trigger guard). Make sure that is tightened all the way in...that will make sure the proper tension is applied to a piece of spring steel (located inside the grips) and that your hammer falls on the primer with the full force designed by S&W to ensure your primers ignite. You should not be getting FTF with this type of revolver...let us know if this screw was loose. If not, suggest you try a different brand of ammo. Best of luck, B

Thanks Bassoneer,

I didn't mean to hijack this thread. I was just commenting on my 686. I have checked the screw and have even replaced the spring. I think it is just the ammo. but it shoots fine in my Ruger. A good reason to try a box before you buy a case. I didn't.

Glenn