Got my new flat trigger for my 1911..

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

I got my new trigger in the mail today and couldn't wait to put it in. I ordered from brownells on the 13th, and vualla. Installation was fairly simple, but i did have to shave off a very tiny amount so that it would fit correctly. Other than that it was basic takedown/reassembly. The feel of this new setup is amazing. The pull is much, much, shorter. The only thing I couldn't figure out is the overtravel screw. The one on the factory was all the way in, while this one came all the way out.... Any suggestions on the importance.

Edited November 18, 2011 by NashvegasMatt

[ls3_kid]

I've seen these I want to know how they feel. I'm a fan of the solid triggers though. As for the grips, whatever feels right. I just ordered some VZs for my 1911.

[Garufa]

I really like the traditional wood double-diamond grips. I put these on my SA 1911 and they are beautiful....Grips 1918 WWI-Style 1911 Government Commander Checkered Walnut

Edited November 18, 2011 by Garufa

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

I really like the traditional wood double-diamond grips. I put these on my SA 1911 and they are beautiful....Grips 1918 WWI-Style 1911 Government Commander Checkered Walnut

I also enjoy a classic look, but I would have a tough time buying another set of grips that are really quite similar.

[mav]

These are the grips I put on my T3. I really like them. http://www.nighthawkcustom.com/NPDPopImage.aspx?pi=http://www.nighthawkcustom.com/images/GR-G-01_1.jpg

Midway has similiar grips without the fancy hawk on it AlumaGrips Slim Line Grips 1911 Government Commander Checkered Aluminum Black.

[Guest motonut]

Love the feel of the flat trigger on my S&W 1911DK but just don't like the "ribs" on it. Love the looks of your trigger, I may just get one for mine.

[jcoosi]

I have vz on my springfiled will get a pic posted this weekend

[timcalhoun]

The only thing I couldn't figure out is the overtravel screw. The one on the factory was all the way in, while this one came all the way out.... Any suggestions on the importance.

Be very careful.

It's not that hard to do but it is a must that the over-travel screw be adjusted properly. You can ruin your sear/hammer hooks. You can go full auto depending on where the shoe bottoms out. You also need to know how to check that there is enough reset/pre travel and what those numbers are. You need at least .035+ pre-travel for your safety notch on the hammer to function properly. You need enough over-travel so that the sear clears the hammer hooks completely.

It really needs to be done right.

Almost nothing on a 1911 is "drop in".

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

Be very careful.

It's not that hard to do but it is a must that the over-travel screw be adjusted properly. You can ruin your sear/hammer hooks. You can go full auto depending on where the shoe bottoms out. You also need to know how to check that there is enough reset/pre travel and what those numbers are. You need at least .035+ pre-travel for your safety notch on the hammer to function properly. You need enough over-travel so that the sear clears the hammer hooks completely.

It really needs to be done right.

Almost nothing on a 1911 is "drop in".

Would there be any reason why I can't just set the overtravel screw to where the factory one was set to? My intention is not to change the trigger response, because that was fine, but rather the physical feel.

[SonnyCrockett]

I dont know much about 1911s so Ill ask - flat trigger? seems uglier IMO

whats the advantage

[jcoosi]

Here is a pic

[Guest Plainsman]

I dont know much about 1911s so Ill ask - flat trigger? seems uglier IMO

whats the advantage

Same trigger feel and pull no matter where the finger is placed on the trigger. Provides more consistency.

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

I dont know much about 1911s so Ill ask - flat trigger? seems uglier IMO

whats the advantage

the eye of the beholder

[TN-popo]

Regarding overtravel screws...

When I was a 1911 guy, I removed them completely from all my "self defense" guns.

One less way for Murphy to step into my life.

I'm a fanatic for a trigger's good reset (1911s, Glocks, etc)...less so on some slight overtravel.

Many companies make "hard use" triggers with no overtravel screw. Here's one...

http://www.egwguns.com/triggers/solid-trigger/

Edited November 20, 2011 by TN-popo

[timcalhoun]

Would there be any reason why I can't just set the overtravel screw to where the factory one was set to? My intention is not to change the trigger response, because that was fine, but rather the physical feel.

Probably won't work. Triggers are all a little different and will (most of the time) greatly change where the over-travel screw will end up.

Edited November 20, 2011 by timcalhoun

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

Regarding overtravel screws...

When I was a 1911 guy, I removed them completely from all my "self defense" guns.

One less way for Murphy to step into my life.

I'm a fanatic for a trigger's good reset (1911s, Glocks, etc)...less so on some slight overtravel.

Interesting, this makes sense. Too bad the company who make this trigger set it, and made it stationary, so when I determine what to do, I'll have to file it.

Has anyone out there actually taken the measurement and set the screw to a specific measurement. No offense to the the guys who know, but have not done it first hand, I'm am looking for first hand knowledge. Everyone is making such a big deal about this screw, but now that it is back in, the guns functions feel the same. As it sits, the screw is the way it came from the factory... all the way out. The only difference now than before is that there is a little more play before the trigger actually drops the hammer. If my schematic knowledge of 1911's suits me correct, shortening the screw make the travel of the trigger longer correct?

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

Probably won't work. Triggers are all a little different and will (most of the time) greatly change where the over-travel screw will end up.

Measurement wise I can get the screw to exactly the same point measuring from the longest point of the trigger arm to the trigger pad. So why won't this work?

[timcalhoun]

First if you take the over-travel screw out......

Best case scenario - Your over-travel is as long as it can be and therefore makes your reset long too.

Worst case scenario - Your hammer starts to follow or you get 2-3 round burst or conceivably full auto ( seen it and fixed it for folks many times).

A trigger with an over-travel screw was designed to be used with it, the specs are not mil-spec. The shoe was designed with the screw in mind and often the bows are longer.

As far as just measuring the screw.......that might work, but why not just learn how to do it properly so it's not just a shot in the dark (pun intended). Moreover, you need to know that the pre-travel is correct too. If it is wrong, the half cock notch may not work as designed and that can be dangerous.

If you contact me via phone I will walk you through the procedure. This way you know that you know the gun is safe.

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

First if you take the over-travel screw out......

Best case scenario - Your over-travel is as long as it can be and therefore makes your reset long too.

Worst case scenario - Your hammer starts to follow or you get 2-3 round burst or conceivably full auto ( seen it and fixed it for folks many times).

A trigger with an over-travel screw was designed to be used with it, the specs are not mil-spec. The shoe was designed with the screw in mind and often the bows are longer.

As far as just measuring the screw.......that might work, but why not just learn how to do it properly so it's not just a shot in the dark (pun intended). Moreover, you need to know that the pre-travel is correct too. If it is wrong, the half cock notch may not work as designed and that can be dangerous.

If you contact me via phone I will walk you through the procedure. This way you know that you know the gun is safe.

Wait... what pre travel screw? there is only one screw in the trigger..

Let me get this straight about the OT screw. Too long isn't the end of the world, but too short ends up with full auto?

[timcalhoun]

Wait... what pre travel screw? there is only one screw in the trigger

There is no "pre-travel" screw, but it needs to be adjust as well. It has tabs in the front of the bow to adjust it. The geometry of the bow itself can change where it bottoms out in the trigger channel. Most of the time you have plenty, but then your pre-travel is really long.

[timcalhoun]

If the bow is allowed to travel too far back it can/will put pressure on the sear spring. The sear spring is what puts pressure on the sear and of course catches the hammer. So as you start to take pressure off the sear you will start to get hammer follow or yes bursts. Often with a heavier trigger it wont show up unless you are excited for some reason and trying to get shots of quickly.

Edited November 20, 2011 by timcalhoun

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

after looking back at my factory trigger, the screw is all the way in... this is making me wonder also, my beavertail catches the trigger from going back too far so I think I'm good.