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Mora Knife


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So after reading some raving reviews about Moras and their usefulness, I picked one up yesterday.

I was at SMKW and browsing around, and for the first time that I can remember, my wife spent more than I did.

After asking a few employees that were clueless, I found one that pointed me in the right direction. The woman working the counter was actually fairly knowledgeable about what they were, even owning one herself and knowing the reputation they have among the bushcraft community.

After handling a Mora Cutter in a carbon blade for a bit I decided that $9 it was worth it. The knife was very solid and just felt good in the hand. The sheath felt a little cheap, but overall I liked the package. It is shaving sharp, so I haven't taken it to a stone yet, but it seems that it will be very easy to sharpen.

One question I do have regards the carbon steal blade, should I do a forced patina on it to keep it from rusting? This is going to be a knock around knife, but I don't want the blade to rust up.

Over all I am pretty happy with it, and at $9, how could I not be.

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I've heard good things about Mora, especially for the cost. I've never done the forced patina on a carbon blade although I am a fan of the appearance. I believe it was OhShoot that just posted some info on forced patinas here recently. I use Tuf-Glide dry lube on all of my carbon steel and it does a good job protecting them.

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A Mora is one of the best values in the world! There are four of the little beauties at my house. I have two 511s (one is modded with a shortened blade and the thumb guard cut off), a No. 1 and a discontinued 780. As for patinas, I don't worry to much a out that. Just use it and it will build up it's on patina over time. Kinda like us, the older we get the more "character" we show. Patina on a carbon steel blade is just another name for character in my book.

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...One question I do have regards the carbon steal blade, should I do a forced patina on it to keep it from rusting? This is going to be a knock around knife, but I don't want the blade to rust up....

Most folks don't seem to have rust probs with the carbon Mora, unless it's going to get put to bed wet every day or something (in which case a stainless model would be better).

- OS

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Hmmmm........Moras......

1 in the truck

2 in my toolbox

2 in the kitchen

1 in the gunsafe

1 in my shooting bag

2 in my camp kitchen

1 in my hunting pack

3 on my boat

I pretty much don't have a bad word to say about 'em! Just remember when you sharpen them, you need to lay the entire bevel on the stone. Scandi ground blades like these don't have a secondary bevel, just a zero-ground primary. If you keep to this grind, it'll last you forever!

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Scandi grinds are the simplest blades to sharpen, but you if you don't do it right, you can screw it up. My Moras came very sharp, so it doesn't take a lot of work at all to make them scary sharp. Once you get them scary sharp, they'll make a razor look dull in comparison. Here is a pretty good video on sharpening a scandi grind blade. Also the knife he is using is a Mora.

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Marttinni's are nice knives, but in stainless steel, except for the 571 which is like a beefed up Mora 511. Another good economical fixed blade is the Hultafors GK. It's even more beefy than the Marttinni 571. It's hard to find here in the States though. It is available through Bushcraft Canada. Check them out online and if it's something you think you might like, start haunting EBay. That will be a bit cheaper.

Also another knife to checkout in the good economical line is the Svord line of knives. They look like a Mora on steriods, with a thick carbon steel blade with a convex grind, plastic hilt and leather sheath. They are another EBay item and usually sell for around $40.

I also have a Helle Obel that I traded some other blades and a hawk for. It's a great little fixed blade. It's my go to woods knife now. I love Puukkos! They are my favorite style of fixed blade.

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