Ruger 10/22

[Murgatroy]

So after examining my collection and situation thoroughly, it occurred to me that something was missing.

I spend my time punching holes in vicious paper. I am not a hunter, not a competitive shooter. However, I like collecting firearms and shooting them.

I own a Remington Nylon 66, well, more correctly, my wife owns and my mother now possesses a Nylon 66. Which left me with only my Daughter's Iver Johnson Lil'Champ (my first rifle from thirty years ago) as a rimfire long gun.

I find myself drawn to spending a large chunk of my range time shooting rimfire, due to the price. So after a box or two of 9mm through my Glock, a couple of magazines through my AK, a box of shells through my shotgun and a couple rounds through my M44, I will spend the next several hours tossing shotshells out a handful of yards and dancing them till I have shot up a brick of bulk with my Heritage Rough Rider.

So the addiction to rimfire is there, and the cost is much more pleasant than even cheap 9mm.

But until today, I didn't have a full size long gun to shoot any .22LR out of.

Thanks to Academy opening, that has been resolved.

I picked up a Ruger 10/22 Carbine for under two bills, the same price that Wal-Mart carries them for, so I figured I couldn't do any better buying new.

Now, I am hit with the dilemma of what I want to do with it.

Obviously I am going to shoot the snot out of it in it's stock configuration, I have a tip-off scope somewhere around here that will find it's way on the top of it I am sure.

The question I have now, what 'must haves' are there for a 10/22?

I have no desire to create a tactical gun out of it, so I don't see any fancy tactical stocks in it's future.

Are Ruger factory magazines the best bang for the buck? I wanted to grab some BX-25s while I was there, but they didn't carry them.

What is the logical range of a .22LR round? I typically never shoot them past 10-15yds, but would it be reasonable to make decent groups at 100yds?

[jcj]

My son has a couple of the Tactical Innovations 25rd magazines for his. No problems from either mag and they're reasonably priced.

[Guest Broomhead]

Volquartsen or another brand's hammer will reduce the trigger pull and smooth it out considerably. Get a hammer and sear set and it will be better. Go to rimfirecentral.com and look up Que or Nemohunter, I can vouch for Que's work, and send them your barrel and slide to rework; Randy at CPC is said to do good work too. If you are a DIY type guy and have the tools, then you can follow the how-tos on rimfirecentral. If you want a great set of iron sights then Tech Sights can't be beat, the are a Garand style rear peep sight and replacement front sight. Get a better scope rail, the 3/8th dovetails aren't good. Ruger mags are the best, but don't shy from others if there's a really good deal, my two run flawlessly with some Eagle mags, about the cheapest on the market. Lastly, enjoy the hell out of it.

100yrd shots aren't out of the questions. I shoot mine mostly at 25, that's my limit at my range.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk

[Murgatroy]

I like those Tech Sights, I was looking at Nodak Spud, they offer something very similar.

[Guest Broomhead]

I like those Tech Sights, I was looking at Nodak Spud, they offer something very similar.

IIRC, the Nodak sights only work with their receiver. A 10/22 receiver is convex on the top where Nodak's is flat.

[Garufa]

I would also recommend the Volquartsen target trigger and a Tactical Solutions mag release.

[Dolomite_supafly]

IIRC, the Nodak sights only work with their receiver. A 10/22 receiver is convex on the top where Nodak's is flat.

+1

Nodak sights will only work with Nodak receivers. Tech sights are cheap enough that equipping a 10/22 shouldn't be an issue if you want quality iron sights. If you plan on using a scope dump the factory scope rail and get a T-09 base from Weaver. They are about $6 and are worlds better than the factory mounts. The factory mounts tend to have a twist in them or are not square. I have solved accuracy issues with several guns by swapping in the T-09 base. And make sure you Blue Loctite the receiver mounting screws and do not overtighten as they are easy to strip on a 10/22.

Accuracy wise in stock configuration it should shoot 4"-5" at 100 yards with ammo it likes. Some guns shoot better but they are extremely rare. I have a full on custom that does 1" on occassion at 100 yards. As far as "bulk" ammo goes Federal Automatch is a decent round. Also, most CCI offerings are gonig to do well but they are a bit pricey. In the true "bulk" ammo Winchesters seem to be the most consistent stuff at the moment. This seems to change every year or two though. If you want to squeeze the most out of it you need to shoot only subsonics because as the bullet passes from supersonic to subsonic accuracy goes south. Forget about any of the hyper velocity stuff like Stingers because I have never had them group under 8" at 100 yards, never. Remingtom seems to be the most inconsistent rimfire ammo out there.

When accuracy testing allow 25 rounds between brands for the barrel to settle down. Once you find ammo your gun likes DO NOT clean it until accuracy starts to fall off. I have had guns go thousands of rounds before accuracy starts to degrade. I would not even consider cleaning anything under 1,000 rounds. Also, there is no break in for rimfires. I would run a bore snake down the bore to get any debris from manufacturing out of there. Most guns are shot at the factory so this probably isn;t needed but I alsways do it before the first shot is fired.

There are several things you can do to help accuracy.

Here are some free or virtually free things you can do. First is free float the barrel. I will take a piece of cork or some other material and place it under the area that the stock screw screws into. This raises the fron of the receiver very slightly and free floats the barrels without sanding out the barrel channel. The trigger return plunger should be rounded more to reduce friction in the trigger but this requires a total disassembly of the trigger to do. But while you are at it you can do some slective polishing to make the trigger feel better. Rimfirecentral has some information on how to do this. It is easy but you must take your time.

Then as far as stuff to do that costs money. If you want to keep the factory barrel you can have the chamber set back. It generally costs about $50 without a new crown. This gets the bullet closer to the rfling and all the ones I have done have seen a major improvement. Or you could swap in a match barrel, they can be had for under $100 shipped. Next would be to swap in various trigger components. This can cost anywhere from $20 on up depending on how far you want to go. You can have the bolt headspaced to reduce the amount of slop the factory bolt has. Most factory guns I have checked have the headspace set at .0450" or more. Setting the headspace rquires squaring up the face and setting the new space at .0425" (rimfires rounds have a rim thickness of .0420"). This reduces the amount of flyers and makes the gun more consistent. The places that do it mnormally charge around $60 for this service but it also include chamferring the rear of the bolt for reliability.

For reliability here are some things I would recommend doing or not doing. Replace the factory extractor with a Volquartsen Exact Edge one. I do this with every 10/22 before the first shot is fired. I would radius the rear of the bolt even if you don't have the headspace corrected. Remove the paint that is on the inside of the receiver if you start having cycling issues. If you do swap trigger components keep the factory hammer spring. Use only factory Ruger branded magazines whether it be 10 rounders or the new 25 rounders. The only exception would be the Tactical Innovations magazines because they can be adjusted to your receiver. And finally, grab a .243 caliber bore brush and chuck it into a drill. Put some Flitz or other metal polish on it and insert it into the chamber with the drill spinning. This polishes the chamber slightly and helps with reliability. Only do it for about 1 minute, just enough to get a nice smooth finish.

I shoot betewen 500 and 1,000 rounds a week with my rimfires if I do not leave my house. If I leave my house and go to a public range that number will generally double for a given week. This is how I know what current bulk ammo is most consistent in all of my guns. I have also built a lot of 10/22's over the years and have tried sipping the snake oil that was the magical cure for all 10/22's. Sometimes it works sometimes it was nothing more than a waste of my time and money.

If you have any questions feel free to ask or you could go to RimfireCentral.com for all things 10/22 as well as rimfires in general.

Dolomite

[Murgatroy]

...sage advice...

Dolomite

Thanks!

That is kind of the reason I grabbed a 10/22. Just all the fun things out there for it. For the price, and shooting targets, as much fun as a high power rifle would be, I don't want to spend that kind of money.

If I have any questions, I will be sure to ask. I just picked up a couple of Ruger magazines, believe it or not, Wal-Mart had them. I think Norris is shut down right now, so it might be a little bit before I shoot it, but I can't wait. I did a basic clean this evening to get a feel for it. The stock leaves a little to be desired, it has a few rough spots in it, but that is to be expected for what it is.

Nodak just released a peep rear for the Ruger receiver, it includes a full rail with it, but it is a hefty price. I honestly think I might pick it up though, as it gives the option for optics, and a quality sight.

With this being the base carbine model, and having the barrel band, wouldn't it be self defeating to free float the barrel? Is that something better left for a new stock?

I am not adverse to dropping a little coin on it over time to make it better, but I think my immediate goal will be some better iron sights and then just shoot the crap out of it.

I am kind of having a hard time deciding on the direction to go with it. I really like the M1 Carbine stock sets I have seen, but that doesn't seem like it would favor accuracy. On the other hand, I really like the Archangel Target Stock as well.

Thus once I decide on the stock set, it helps decide whether or not to go with a barrel and other work.

Or I could just buy another 10/22 and build both...

[Garufa]

That barrrel band does doodly-squat. I don't even know why it's there but it is handy when trying to attach a sling. The single action screw just forward of the magazine holds the thing together.

[Oh Shoot]

Hope to meet ya at Norris one of these days, Murg:

I have two 10/22's, only thing I've done internally to them is add the Volquartsen hammer and extractor. Oh yeah, and a plastic buffer pin to replace the steel bolt stop pin.

Have same inexpensive Bushnell 3x9 scope on each of them.

At Norris, with crosshairs zeroed at 50 yards, I can use the bottom of reticule where it fattens to the ^ as sight for the 122.5 yard stands, hit tin cans or clays at that distance most every shot. About all the accuracy I expect to get out of them without throwing enough bucks into them where I might as well buy a more accurate gun to begin with, like something in the Savage or CZ line.

Also, the new Ruger 25 round mags are all aces, no need to consider other makers' offerings anymore.

As per Garufa's comment, true, the barrel band doesn't hold gun together, isn't necessary. It's can even be a detriment, as degree of tightening can change point of aim from last time you did it. So can even the main takedown screw torque, if you're trying to get all you can out of it. Some folks replace the screw with a hex type so they can use torque wrench to get it the same each time.

You can't go wrong following Dolomite's advice on this kind of stuff, btw, if you have either/or the dedication or coin. 'Course, you'll probably need a new thicker target barrel too, and a .. , and a ... and....and ... and...

- OS

Edited November 12, 2011 by OhShoot

[Guest Broomhead]

I forgot about free floating the barrel. Remove the barrel band, or use a Dremel to widen where the barrel contacts it so it won't touch the barrel.

When I said slide earlier I meant bolt, brain fart.

A hex head take-down screw makes it a helluva lot easier to take apart, also removes the possibility of slipping and gouging the stock.

For less money, get the Tech Sights and the rail Dolomite mentioned and cut the rail to fit. My Dad did this to one of his and both the sights and rail have performed flawlessly.

[Murgatroy]

Made it up to Norris with it today.

Wow.

How did I make it to this age without a 10/22?

I didn't hit squat, ran through 200 rounds of ammo and loved every second of it.

Well, let me rephrase.

With irons at 50 yards, it was about three inches to the right. Not bad at all, the groups held great. Over all I was very happy. Thirty rounds went this way.

Now here is where I made my mistake, if we are going to call it that. I didn't get up there till late, and I didn't get started shooting until after 4pm. I attached the factory rail, and dug out an old rimfire scope I had, I think it came factory on the Nylon 66 I have from back in the `70s.

So I get it all buttoned down, and set of a target to zero the scope. Not a shot on paper. So I spent the next 100 rounds going shot by shot, pulling out my binoculars, checking, adjusting... Nothing.

So I got frustrated, the range goes cold, I go downrange, check my target, and see that I had been making a nice little 2" group right in the black ring, where I couldn't see it.

Overall I am very pleased. It ate everything, and just kept on going. That little bolt hold open thingy is a pain in the ass though.

Now I am looking for a better rail and scope. Should keep me busy the rest of the night reading reviews.

[Oh Shoot]

....That little bolt hold open thingy is a pain in the ass though...

Yeah, but most folks don't operate it correctly, so it seems worse than it is.

Open: Pull back bolt, HOLD the catch down, release bolt.

Close: Pull back bolt, PRESS and RELEASE catch, release bolt.

Most folks try to get it to operate same for both open and close, and it doesn't.

- OS

[Murgatroy]

Yeah, but most folks don't operate it correctly, so it seems worse than it is.

Open: Pull back bolt, HOLD the catch down, release bolt.

Close: Pull back bolt, PRESS and RELEASE catch, release bolt.

Most folks try to get it to operate same for both open and close, and it doesn't.

- OS

Ah...

I was pressing and holding to release.

[Il Duce]

I just picked one one of these as well. Can't wait to shoot it

[Murgatroy]

It is a blast.

I definitely need more magazines. The ten rounders aren't bad, they drop right out, impressively so, but I only have two, so I wind up reloading quite a bit.

I grabbed the Winchester 525 brick from Academy, $16 and not a single failure in 200 rounds. I will run back and grab a couple more boxes if it stays the same price.

This is probably the first range session I have had that I didn't sit with my Rough Riders and pop shot shell hulls for several hours. Part of it had to do with the lateness of my arrival, having my wife and daughter with me and having so much fun with my new rifle.

I am hooked on rimfire.

[Guest Broomhead]

I forgot this too, the Auto-Bolt Release. This is a must have. Very easy to do yourself in about 5 minutes with a dremel, or 15 with a file.

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30867

With this, you lock the bolt back the same as described above, but to release it, you just pull the bolt back and let it fly. So much better.

Edited November 14, 2011 by Broomhead

[Oh Shoot]

I forgot this too, the Auto-Bolt Release. This is a must have. Very easy to do yourself in about 5 minutes with a dremel, or 15 with a file.

Auto Bolt Release Picture - RimfireCentral.com Forums

With this, you lock the bolt back the same as described above, but to release it, you just pull the bolt back and let it fly. So much better.

Thought many times about giving that a go, but then I don't hardly ever have need to lock the bolt back. Generally just to use Bore Snake. Which doesn't get done very often either.

- OS

[Guest Broomhead]

Thought many times about giving that a go, but then I don't hardly ever have need to lock the bolt back. Generally just to use Bore Snake. Which doesn't get done very often either.

- OS

I lock it back between mags. I usually don't just do mag after mag after mag. I'm usually doing or adjusting something, changing positions, or checking my target. Just a little retentive on safety I guess. If you ever attend an Appleseed event it is a major benefit. I wouldn't go back to the stock now. Its just so much easier. I think I have a spare I can send you to try. If you like it, send me your OEM in exchange, if not then send it back. I can send an SASE along with it if you'd like.

[Erik88]

Yeah, but most folks don't operate it correctly, so it seems worse than it is.

Open: Pull back bolt, HOLD the catch down, release bolt.

Close: Pull back bolt, PRESS and RELEASE catch, release bolt.

Most folks try to get it to operate same for both open and close, and it doesn't.

- OS

This is fantastic advice. I was doing it completely wrong until you showed me how to operate it correctly.

[Oh Shoot]

... I think I have a spare I can send you to try. If you like it, send me your OEM in exchange, if not then send it back. I can send an SASE along with it if you'd like.

Broom, I really do appreciate the offer, but honestly don't care enough about the feature to fool with it. I never lock it open while shooting -- and with Volquartsen extractor I've never had a jam where I needed to lock it open to clear either.

The very infrequent times I do it is no problema -- since I actually know how to do it!

- OS

[graycrait]

OK, something I know something about. The rules of 10/22 to make a factory gun (which is a very nice factory gun for the money) and what to make it a pretty nice gun regardless of price but in order of money or time neeed:

1. Volquartsen hammer & poly buffer pin

2. Auto bolt release mod - zero dollars

3. Rechamber and recrown stock barrel

4. Volquartsen sear

5. Reface and chamfer bolt.

6. Bed stock

7. Maybe oversized pins or aftermarket tigger group

8. Stiffer stock

But now you are exceeding the original design parameter limits. Start looking at Remington 40X orAnschutz 2013.

[Guest Broomhead]

Broom, I really do appreciate the offer, but honestly don't care enough about the feature to fool with it. I never lock it open while shooting -- and with Volquartsen extractor I've never had a jam where I needed to lock it open to clear either.

The very infrequent times I do it is no problema -- since I actually know how to do it!

- OS

No problem. Offer stands for anyone else. Just one at a time though, I'll have to wait for either the exchanged release or my release to come back between folks.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Hey Murgatroy.

If you want I can set your chamber back on the stock barrel when you are ready. I have done about a dozen or so now and all have shown improvement. I am not comfortable doing the crown with what I have but the chamber setback it a no brainer. I really need to get a crowning tool but have put it off because I would never use it on my stuff and I generally don't work on others stuff.

Dolomite

[Murgatroy]

Hey Murgatroy.

If you want I can set your chamber back on the stock barrel when you are ready. I have done about a dozen or so now and all have shown improvement. I am not comfortable doing the crown with what I have but the chamber setback it a no brainer. I really need to get a crowning tool but have put it off because I would never use it on my stuff and I generally don't work on others stuff.

Dolomite

Thanks, I think we can do that.

Let me get a couple of parts stocked up for it, a rail and a scope most importantly at this point, then I will bring it over, we can do some work on it and set the barrel back then sight it in.