Russian 223 ammo?

[red dirt]

I acquired 500 rounds of Russian made Wolf Military Classic, its grey so I'm assuming its polymer and not lacquer coated ?

A friend told me that its bad stuff and will cause problems with my gun, not sure if he was referring to the older lacquered stuff.

So grey casings are polymer and green are lacquer ?

Thanks

[TN-popo]

When I'm buying it, my practice .223 ammo of choice is Brown Bear. I've run thousands of rounds through my ARs with zero issues.

Also, a much smaller sampling, but I've shot several hundred .223 Golden Tiger with zero issues as well.

That said, when I co-owned a training company and conducted our 2-day, 1000 round carbine class, I don't think we ever had someone complete the class using the Wolf/AR combo without numerous malfunctions (some of which required a rod to pound out stuck cases). And yes, they were quality ARs.

If it works for you, great...personally, I'll pass on .223 Wolf based on my observations.

Plinking 100 rounds of it at the range? Probably fine. I'd hate to show up to a 2-3 day carbine class with it only to be sidelined because of ammo that won't run.

Besides, I can usually find Brown Bear for the same price (or cheaper) as Wolf, so for me it's a no-brainer.

Edited November 6, 2011 by TN-popo

[TN-popo]

Back when Wolf sold Lacquered steel case ammo, I had extraction problems with my AR-15 and 1911 using it. Since they started using the polymer coating, I've never had a problem. I've also never heard of an extractor being pre-maturely worn. The steel case is much softer than the steel of the extractor.

Good points.

-Lacquered vs Poly Wolf...regarding my above post; I can't be sure which versions were used by students in my classes that caused the problems.

-Increased extractor wear;

1. I haven't seen it.

2. Who cares, extractors are cheap and the ammo savings will more than make up for it (if it exists).

Edited November 6, 2011 by TN-popo

[Oh Shoot]

Good points.

-Lacquered vs Poly...regarding my above post; I can't be sure which versions were used.

...

Your Brown Bear is lacquer coated, that's why it's "brown".

Looks like Russian .223 Wolf is probably made by Barnaul these days, too.

- OS

[TN-popo]

Your Brown Bear is lacquer coated, that's why it's "brown".

- OS

Yeah, I know. I was referring to the Wolf that exhibited the problems in my classes.

Clarification made...

Edited November 6, 2011 by TN-popo

[myg30]

When the wolf came out, if you got your rifle so hot the laquer cases might of stuck in the chamber from melting. I never had any trouble out if them in my mini 14. The AC556 is another story. It heats up pretty fast !

Function is what you need to base your purchase on. If it works, Good ! If it dont,then change brands !

No shooting is cheep any more.

[Magiccarpetrides]

I have heard the same thing Mike. If you think about it that makes a lot of sense. Don

I have had it happen after shooting silver bear and switching to hot shot...though that could have been the hot shot ammo (Century branded 62gr brass cased steel core ammo)

[mikegideon]

I have had it happen after shooting silver bear and switching to hot shot...though that could have been the hot shot ammo (Century branded 62gr brass cased steel core ammo)

Hasn't happened to me, because it's the one thing I avoid when shooting Wolf. Don't know how likely it really is. Just know that a stuck case sucks, especially if you don't carry something to knock it out.

[Oh Shoot]

.. Just know that a stuck case sucks, especially if you don't carry something to knock it out.

Have had two or three in Minis ... easy to remove by putting something on charging lever to protect it and tapping it out with hammer or something like one. Much easier than using the Garand Foot Kick, though that works too.

Not so easy in AR though.

Oddly, my few stuck cases have been polymer coated steel case.

- OS

Edited November 9, 2011 by OhShoot

[mikegideon]

Have had two or three in Minis ... easy to remove by putting something on charging lever to protect it and tapping it out with hammer or something like one. Much easier than using the Garand Foot Kick, though that works too.

Not so easy in AR though.

Oddly, my few stuck cases have been polymer coated steel case.

- OS

Yep. An AR can be a two man job.

[Guest MarksGlock]

I have shot several hundred rounds of various steel case .223 from my AR's, and I have never had a problem.

[Dolomite_supafly]

The biggest problem with the RUssian stuff is the velocity. I have chronographed several and all are low powered. I can't remember all of them but I know out of a 16" AR the 55 grain Tula ran about 2,850 fps and Wolf was even slower. In a brand new gun this can cause issues but in a well used and lubed gun there should be no issues.

I would say buy a few hundred rounds to try out before buy a case. You should do this anyways to try to find what shoots best out of your gun anyways. I know Tula in my gun shoots 2"-3" at 100 yards while my reloads run <.75".

Dolomite

[jeff43]

I have a Bushmaster and I've shot some of the WPA through it.Sometimes a fired case will get stuck in the chamber and I have to knock it out with a cleaning rod.What case this?

Jeff

[Mike]

The chamber is probably too tight. Find someone with a chamber reamer and ream it out to proper 5.56 dimensions.

Or you can buy one of Ned's reamers and do it yourself.

Michiguns.com

[jeff43]

Would that be risky of ruining the chamber?

Jeff

[mikegideon]

Would that be risky of ruining the chamber?

Jeff

I don't know. Aren't all Bushmaster chambers chrome lined?

[jeff43]

I don't know. Aren't all Bushmaster chambers chrome lined?

Yes they are.

Jeff

[mikegideon]

Yes they are.

Jeff

I think I would try a Flitz treatment first. A bore mop of the appropriate size (probably .410), a cleaning rod section, and a cordless drill. Slather some Flitz on the bore mop, and polish the chamber.

[Oh Shoot]

I think I would try a Flitz treatment first. A bore mop of the appropriate size (probably .410), a cleaning rod section, and a cordless drill. Slather some Flitz on the bore mop, and polish the chamber.

Same technique many folks who buy a Rem 870 shottie (and some other brands too) have to do anymore to keep certain shot shells from sticking, especially low brass ones. Many just use some ScotchBrite pad material around a dowel chucked in a drill.

(note: I don't know if this is completely safe or not, so don't sue me for a ruined chrome lined AR chamber, but it's a common suggestion on shotgun forums).

- OS

[mikegideon]

Same technique many folks who buy a Rem 870 shottie (and some other brands too) have to do anymore to keep certain shot shells from sticking, especially low brass ones. Many just use some ScotchBrite pad material around a dowel chucked in a drill.

(note: I don't know if this is completely safe or not, so don't sue me for a ruined chrome lined AR chamber, but it's a common suggestion on shotgun forums).

- OS

I got the Flitz suggestion from the .458 SOCOM forum. RRA has put out some rough chambers in that caliber. I did mine with no ill effects. Just a slicker chamber. I think it would take a lot to chew thru the chrome plating with Flitz and a bore mop.

[Dolomite_supafly]

I have done the Flitz treatment to a lot of firearms over the years. Never had single issue. I will say that the majority of them were on rimfires though.

Dolomite

[Mike]

Would that be risky of ruining the chamber?

Jeff

No, it spaces off the shoulder and only cuts the throat to proper 5.56 dimensions. It will cut into the chrome lining but the chrome on the throat naturally erodes over time anyways.

Mike

[TN-popo]

No, it spaces off the shoulder and only cuts the throat to proper 5.56 dimensions. It will cut into the chrome lining but the chrome on the throat naturally erodes over time anyways.

Mike

This.