Mountain Bike fitment questions and other

[Guest db99wj]

My background is BMX bikes, which I haven't done in a long while, still have a GHP, which was a limited run endeavor by Gregg Hill, one of the all time great racers back in the day. I have a Diamond Back MB with Rock Shox that is approximately 15 years old. I'm looking to getting back into riding, mainly for cross training with my running, but I have a bug to do a triathlon, more specifically the Wolfpack Tri which is a 400 meter swim, 5 mile mountain bike, and 2.5 mile trail run. Not to be competitive in,but to finish. We will see if I get the bug to ride more.

My current MB is old, I know it, it is out of date, heavy, etc. It should be fine for my cross training goals and mild trail riding, but I find myself, browsing through craigslist, and ebay looking at used bikes. I understand, with fitment, the major items are the seat height, tilt, handlebar position and height are key, and you can make most the frame sizes work. I'm confused about all the different frame sizes though. 13" up to 24". I found a used Trek 4300 with a 13's frame, is this thing tiny? I'm 5'9" according to the military:D.

Anyway, my riding style use to be jumps, and style in the air etc, and I'm sure that once I get back on, I will hit some jumps. So maneuverability is important. I've seen some huge bikes, that look like they would be very difficult to manipulate, the way I grew up.

It's all confusing to me. I've also considered building one, which is one reason for buying used, I can upgrade as I advance.

Here is a Trek 6000 series for $450, it appears to be older, but with an 18" frame. http://memphis.craigslist.org/bik/2534508019.html

Edited August 12, 2011 by db99wj

[JReedEsq]

13" is really, really small. If you're 5'9", I'd say you'd be roughly in the 16"-17" range depending on the geometry of the particular bike. The best thing to do is visit a bike shop and test ride some bikes. I raced for many years and sold bikes before I completed my education. Don't let any bike shop guys sell you on 29" wheel bikes either. They are the big thing right now and at your size the bigger wheels are definitely going to make the bike slow handling/too stable. They can have benefits for bigger riders but I really don't like them for smaller riders.

[Guest db99wj]

I've seen a lot of stuff on the 29's, that seems to be opposite of what I would want. Also, Trek (Gary Fisher), Specialized, GT. Any other brands I should be aware of or stay away from?

[JReedEsq]

If your looking at used bikes from the majors in the low-mid price range they are all going to be pretty much the same. I would buy based on fit more than anything else. You might also look at Giant. I've never actually owned one (although I sold them at one point), but they actually produce bikes for a lot of the other companies. They are a huge souless Tiawanese conglomerate so you so what that means??? That's right; a great value for your dollar. You're exactly right that the 29er thing is the opposite of what you'd want. Honestly I can't emphisize the fit thing enough. A well fitting bike will be more comfortable and handle better for you. You'll be more likely to enjoy it and then you'll just end up either upgrading parts as you go or getting a higher-end bike later. Jamis is another company that offers a lot for your dollar.

[Guest db99wj]

Great. Thanks!

[Guest db99wj]

I might even consider buying a frame and then taking the stuff off my old one/upgrading and putting on it.

[Guest mustangdave]

Here's 2 cents worth....if the DB is still a good fit...take it to a bike shop and get it tuned up good and checked out....unless you're going to drop some bigger coin...bike weights haven't really changed depending on price range...the componetry is WAAAAY different than for 15 yrs ago...that's where you're gonna find a huge difference...do you want dual shocks, ie... front and rear...or a hard tail like your DB....a year or so ago I sold my 93 Specialized Rockhopper FS and went to a new TREK 7.2FX...its more of a road bike with flat bars. your DB could probably use a parts upgrade...deraileurs, brakes etc...that would make it a whole new ride.

[Guest db99wj]

Here's 2 cents worth....if the DB is still a good fit...take it to a bike shop and get it tuned up good and checked out....unless you're going to drop some bigger coin...bike weights haven't really changed depending on price range...the componetry is WAAAAY different than for 15 yrs ago...that's where you're gonna find a huge difference...do you want dual shocks, ie... front and rear...or a hard tail like your DB....a year or so ago I sold my 93 Specialized Rockhopper FS and went to a new TREK 7.2FX...its more of a road bike with flat bars. your DB could probably use a parts upgrade...deraileurs, brakes etc...that would make it a whole new ride.

That's a thought as well. I've thought about painting the frame, upgrading and what not. I don't want a FS, definitely want to stay with a hardtail.

I'm going to bust into the DB this afternoon and over the weekend. Something is going on with it, when I crank down hard, i'm slipp'n, which hurts like a mofo, and the kids don't like dad dropping F'Bombs. Wife either.

[Guest fastbilly1]

look to the forum, MSTA (google "midsouthtrails) is the local MTB group. there are several mtb for sale there. as for the 29er thing, i resisted till several years ago, but i am sold on the bigger wheel, even for a 5'6" guy. and yes i race and ride alot

[Guest mustangdave]

That's a thought as well. I've thought about painting the frame, upgrading and what not. I don't want a FS, definitely want to stay with a hardtail.

I'm going to bust into the DB this afternoon and over the weekend. Something is going on with it, when I crank down hard, i'm slipp'n, which hurts like a mofo, and the kids don't like dad dropping F'Bombs. Wife either.

Sounds like the crank arm is out of round or your bottom bracket spindle is FUBAR...

[wareagle]

I am 5'10" and a huge fan of 29er. I resisted as well. Went from a 16" 1994 diamond back to a 17" 2009 fuji with hydraulic disc brakes, tora shock, and 29" wheels. This is way more bike than I could imagine.

[Wyldk2]

I used to race CC, then just got tired of it. Now just ride mainly for fun( and when it's cooler). Like mentioned in another post, a 16-17" frame would be best IMO. for a person of your size. I'm 6 ft and my K2 is a 17" frame( which they consider a Medium). I got a good deal on the frame and fork about 8 years ago. added shimano xt components and disc brakes. Like the Dual suspension, but i'm thinking i would like a hardtail( like i used to have) as a second "spare" bike. I just have 26" wheels, not into the 29" craze either.

You could go the route of fixing your old bike, taking all the parts off, cleaning and painting the frame( powdercoating lasts longer, but a good paint job will work fine). Best thing is to upgrade your components if possible. Usually when the weight of a component goes down the price goes up. So if you go the Shimano XTR route it could be close to a grand or more for just the components, that is unless you get a really good deal.

[redfsr]

That's a thought as well. I've thought about painting the frame, upgrading and what not. I don't want a FS, definitely want to stay with a hardtail.

I'm going to bust into the DB this afternoon and over the weekend. Something is going on with it, when I crank down hard, i'm slipp'n, which hurts like a mofo, and the kids don't like dad dropping F'Bombs. Wife either.

Check your rear cassette. If the teeth look like shark fins you need a new chain and cassette. Check your front rings too. If they don't look like shark fins, your rear derailleur may just need to be adjusted. If I were you, I'd clean and tune up the bike you have real good and test ride many many bikes before deciding what to buy. Based on your height, I'd agree with the others that you probably need a 16" frame. Nothing smaller than that.

[-Bristol-]

Dittos on the 16" frame. It sounds like you've picked the event and you can do some training on the same course. As others have mentioned, get the drve train fixed and use it for a trainer. Continue watching for a used bike, now that you know what frame size you need. It sounds like this is for a one time event so buying used might make more sense; might save you several hundred $$.

And good luck on the triathalon. I've only entered the ones that feature kayaking, biking and running. The transition is important to plan and rehearse. Beware of overtraining, especially on the running. A naging overuse injury can really set you back or take you out completely.

[Shorty]

You might want to try hitting up Bikes Plus on Poplar maybe 1/2 mile past Forest Hill-Irene. The lady that runs that place is big into Adventure Racing and multi-sport racing. She might be able to give you some pointers on what to upgrade with. Cannondale would also be another good bike to look into from what I hear.

[Parrothead]

When i biked on a regular basis i purchased a Religh M80. Disc brakes and some pretty good hardware for a sub 1k bike. Things may have changed a lot in the last 5 years so th is info may or may not be helpful.

[Guest db99wj]

Rock Shox Judy XC cartridge system

Zoom stem. Need a real seat and real pedals

Made in China, designed in USA

Can't tell what model, need todo some research.

Shimano FC-AT20 170 cranks

Shimano Alvino gears

Shimano FD-CT10 derailer

Exage HB-RM50 hubs and Sun Levanter alloy rims

This is what I have. It needs to be tuned, I rode it this morning and I have some type of driveline vibration and the gears, when working change fine, but will have issues of not changing sometimes. Like the cable is stuck and not moving freely in the casing if that makes since. Like they are gummed up which is very likely.

Got some work ahead of me.

[Guest db99wj]

Just left Peddler bike shop. Wow technology has changed a ton.

The guy said at the shop not to even consider any of his stock if I intended to get the wheels off the ground. They are a Trek concept shop and had 3,4 and 6 series Treks and some Gary Fishers. I was looking at a 4series when he said that. I'm nit going to be a dirt jumper, but I'm not going to ride on paved roads all the time either. Kind of turned me off.

Edited August 13, 2011 by db99wj

[Wyldk2]

Makes you wonder with their type of additude if they even want to stay in business at all?

I've looked at the 4 series and the 6 series( way too much). If i was in the market for a new bike and trek was all i could get and being on a budget, go the 4 series route.

$2 grand for a bike could buy some pretty good jeep parts.

[Guest mustangdave]

Going into a Bike Shop...you gotta be fairly educated anymore on whats out there...EXACTLY what type of riding you're going to do...When I bought my TREK FX7.2...I though I was pretty knowledgable...I worked in the bike shop for a number of years...LOL...and kinda know the lingo...but the technology was so much better than what was on my Rockhopper...and I was switching from a MT Bike to an "urban" bike...the Rockhopper was a 16-17inch medium size frame...to a 20inch road frame...I'm 6'2"...good luck with your choice...I know you'll be stoked with whatever you get.

[Smith]

Your 15 year old bike is more than out of date. Even getting it tuned up is not worth the time or money. Cables will need to be replaced. I can guarantee you the dampers in the fork are gone and the oil is worthless. The components on your bike are not even up-gradable at this point as too much has changed during the years. Giant is the way to go for the money. They make nearly everyone else OEM frames. Jamis is another very good bargain bike. Make sure your rear dropout is able to take aftermarket gear changers as well as the bottom bracket and headsets.

[JReedEsq]

Your 15 year old bike is more than out of date. Even getting it tuned up is not worth the time or money. Cables will need to be replaced. I can guarantee you the dampers in the fork are gone and the oil is worthless. The components on your bike are not even up-gradable at this point as too much has changed during the years. Giant is the way to go for the money. They make nearly everyone else OEM frames. Jamis is another very good bargain bike. Make sure your rear dropout is able to take aftermarket gear changers as well as the bottom bracket and headsets.

The bike is definitely out of date but I'm not sure I wouldn't say to get it tuned up and ride it long enough for the OP to figure out his next step. The big issue is that this bike isn't going to work with disc brakes and that's probably the biggest improvement in hardtail technology. As for the poster who commented about $2,000 buying a lot of Jeep parts: Jeeps are cool and all, but they do nothing for rule 1: Cardio. Further, I'll make sure never to mention how much I have in my mountain bike on TGO (or my road bike, or my cyclocross bike etc...).

[Guest db99wj]

Yea, I don't think my bike is upgradeable to a point. I can get it running again with some small upgrades and maintenance, and ease back into it, can't spend the money just yet. It, at the least, can supplement my running for cross-training, running a half marathon in December. You are right, one of the gear cables is sticky and doesn't change very smoothly. The shocks actually do ok, I'm not bottoming out or anything, but I wouldn't want to trust them on a trail at speed. I will eventually buy, might be used, but I will need to upgrade at some point if I continue, and especially if I do the tri.

[JReedEsq]

Just left Peddler bike shop. Wow technology has changed a ton.

The guy said at the shop not to even consider any of his stock if I intended to get the wheels off the ground. They are a Trek concept shop and had 3,4 and 6 series Treks and some Gary Fishers. I was looking at a 4series when he said that. I'm nit going to be a dirt jumper, but I'm not going to ride on paved roads all the time either. Kind of turned me off.

I've been around a lot of bike shops (and worked in 3, all over 10 years ago) and seem a lot of good and some very bad customer relations. He may have been a little out of line but I think there was definitely some truth to what he was saying. He probably could have been more diplomatic about it, but it's also not a good idea to tell someone a product will withstand hard off-road use, if it won't. In looking at their line, you could defintely do some real off road riding on a 6 series, but if you go below the 6 series and ride regularly, you will probably start to break stuff sooner rather than later... JMHO. In Jeep terms, you wouldn't take a compass on the rubicon would you? Then again, I've seen lots of guys race on fairly entry-level hardtails ($1,000-$1,200) and smoke guys on the latest, greatest carbon-fiber wonder bikes.

[JReedEsq]

Yea, I don't think my bike is upgradeable to a point. I can get it running again with some small upgrades and maintenance, and ease back into it, can't spend the money just yet. It, at the least, can supplement my running for cross-training, running a half marathon in December. You are right, one of the gear cables is sticky and doesn't change very smoothly. The shocks actually do ok, I'm not bottoming out or anything, but I wouldn't want to trust them on a trail at speed. I will eventually buy, might be used, but I will need to upgrade at some point if I continue, and especially if I do the tri.

Cables are super cheap. Take it to the shop and ask them just to replace that cable. Shouldn't cost more than $10-15 total. Then ride that thing until you decide what to buy next.