P3AT extractor & firing pin question

[peejman]

So I finally took my P3AT to the range yesterday. While plenty accurate and easy enough to shoot, it suffered numerous failures to extract. When I got home, google kindly informed me that the likely cause was the extractor screw being a bit loose. Sure enough, I was able to tighten it about 1/8 turn. So I took it all the way out, cleaned everything, put a dot of blue loctite on the screw, and tightened it down.

When I put it back together, something wasn't right. The slide would go fully to the rear, but wouldn't come all the way back to battery. I noticed an interference problem between the hammer and firing pin, and noticed that the firing pin seemed locked up tight and a tad crooked.

Further googling this morning informed me that the extractor screw also retains the firing pin. So in bottoming out the extractor screw, I've locked up (and possibly bent) the firing pin. I've also learned that the firing pin must go in a particular way. Shame on me for not reading up on it before I started messing with it.

So.... for proper function of the extractor, the retaining screw must be tight. Yet when its tight, it locks up the firing pin. That tells me the screw is too long. Easy enough to file a little off the screw until it can be tight for extractor function yet not lock up the firing pin.

Someone tell me why shortening the retaining screw is a bad idea.

I've further discovered that, if I booger it up (or have already), replacement parts are quite inexpensive direct from Keltec.

[Guest BungieCord]

While you have it apart, you might want to Dogpile (I don't G**gle) P3AT and "fluff and buff." It's something that might interest you.

[peejman]

While you have it apart, you might want to Dogpile (I don't G**gle) P3AT and "fluff and buff." It's something that might interest you.

It appears that's already been done to this one. I did find a few high spots in unimportant places that I'll smooth out, but otherwise it looks pretty good.

[MphsTiger1981]

This is fairly common with the Kel-Tec pistols. I'm assuming from your description this is a second generation P3AT, which they call the FrankenBolt Version. First thing Monday call KT and tell them you need the extractor, extractor spring, firing pin, fp spring and the button (retaining) screw. They will ship this out to you at no cost and it will be there by next Thursday. They have some of the best customer service in the gun business, even for cheap guns.

Until then, take it all apart once again. Spray some gun cleaner down into the firing pin channel and hose it out really good. After this take either a pipe cleaner or a Q tip and swab it out good. Chances are you've got some gunk in the fp channel. Hose it down again with the cleaner then let it dry or use a can of compressed air to blow it out good. Reassemble carefully making sure that the flat side of the firing pin is up against the retaining screw.

Be careful not to strip the head of the hex screw trying to overtighten. It does not have to be more than barely hand tightened with the allen wrench. put just a dot of blue loctite on the end of the screw near the button head, careful not to let it run down into the firing pin channel.

If you have any questions or need more information, skip on over to the KTOG.org which is the Kel-Tec owners group. Great folks over there and you can find more than enough information about this from several threads on this topic. You may have some gunk in the channel, a worn firing pin, or a bad extractor. Either way, it's no big deal and something you can easily solve yourself. They really are easy to work on.

good luck,

Robert.

p.s. I meant to ask, have you been dry firing this pistol without snap caps?

Edited July 16, 2011 by MphsTiger1981

[-boatman-]

It has been some time since I have had one of these apart but I think I am correct on this. The screw is not too long. It is the position of the pin when the screw was installed. There is a flat spot on the firing pin where the extractor screw goes. This keeps the pin free to move back and forth while holding it in. If the pin moved while you had it out it locked it down in that position when you put the screw back in. When you put it back together make sure it is in position and moves back and forth before tightening the screw down. If you have not taken it apart you'll see what I am talking about when you do take it apart.

[peejman]

Thanks for the info. It was exactly as described, the firing pin moved when I took the Frankenbolt out and I didn't pay attention when I put it back together the first time. Thankfully I didn't bend it when I reinstalled it incorrectly. I did clean it (wasn't really dirty to begin with) and I put a little shine on the feed ramp while I was at it.

It appears to be working normally, though I'll have to go back to the range to verify.

I did dry fire it a few times before I read that you're not supposed to (which seems odd). Nothing appeared to be damaged or worn.