picking the final pieces of my AR - couple Qs?

[Guest nysos]

Disclaimer - on any of the parts I may have listed, feel free to suggest your own - the link I provide is not necessarily where I am buying it from, so price is not the issue but just where I have been browsing and comparing certain parts.

*****************************************************

1st - I am going to be using an 18" barrel w/ mid length gas ports - I want my free float quad rail to completely cover the gas block +1-2" to spare to help protect it. Will a 10" get the job done or do I need to go to a 12"?

Midwest Industries T-Series Free Float Tube Handguard Quad Rail AR-15 Aluminum - MidwayUSA

2nd - Barrels, is fluting worth the extra $$? And for an 18" what should I go with -1 in 7 twist, or 1 in 8? If someone asks what ammo I will be shooting, initially probably the cheapest stuff I can find until I get enough brass saved to start reloading - so I do not know what weight bullet I will be primarily firing, but if there are advantages of one barrel to the other, I can go with that barrel and fit my reloading needs around it. Primary use of this gun will be from a bench, mid range target shooting.

https://danieldefense.com/cold-hammer-forged-barrels/18-inch-chf-barrels/18-5-56mm-s2w-mid-length-chf-barrel-stripped.html

DPMS Barrel AR-15 Mini SASS 5.56x45mm NATO .920" Muzzle Diameter 1 in 8" Twist 18" Fluted Stainless Steel Black Teflon Pre-Ban - MidwayUSA

3rd - butt stock - I am debating getting a magpul UBR - it comes with its own buffer tube and says it just needs a spring. My lower parts kit has a buffer retainer and buffer spring, is there anything else I need to get for this to work?

MagPul UBR Buttstock Assembly 7-Position Collapsible AR-15 Synthetic - MidwayUSA

4th - buffer spring - any reason to get an extra strength buffer spring? ie wolff

5th - gas block - I was plan on going with a clamp on as it seems like it would hold better, any reason I should go with a set screw setup? I know some barrels don't have indents for the set screws but as I have no experience with either (in rifles), I would like your personal preference.

6th - mags - polymer or steel? recommend a brand? there are so many to choose from...

7th - bolt carrier/bolt/firing pin - I haven't found much info on these, should I go with a bolt carrier from the same company that makes my upper so it is more likely to be in spec with each other? go with a 3rd party? recommend me one? >_<

thanks all to those who read/reply

[Guest coldblackwind]

Only one I'll comment on is the mags. I have a bunch of steel mags (all cheap used mags) and they tend to have issues. I also have some magpul polymer mags, and they work awesome, I'll be going with them from now on personally.

[peejman]

If primary use is bench shooting, I see little value in a fluted barrel. If you're target shooting with light bullets, get 1-8 or 1-9 rifling. If you think you might hunt with it and want heavier bullets, get 1-7.

Pmags seems to be the best on the market.

I've no experience mixing/match bolts and uppers. Unless you just really want to build it, I'd consider a complete upper.

[Guest nysos]

All the upper assemblies I look at are including handguards, gas blocks, etc.

I wouldn't mind a completed upper receiver with the bolt, BCG, and charging handle - but it seems that the only assembled uppers you can buy are with the dust cover and forward assist preinstalled.

[Seaslug]

All the upper assemblies I look at are including handguards, gas blocks, etc.

I wouldn't mind a completed upper receiver with the bolt, BCG, and charging handle - but it seems that the only assembled uppers you can buy are with the dust cover and forward assist preinstalled.

Not sure I understand what you're saying here. Why is it a problem if the dust cover and FA are already installed?

And to partially answer your OP, the make of your bolt and carrier will not aid in fitment. Just buy one that's been properly staked (gas key), tested, and inspected (i.e. BCM, Daniel Defense, LMT, etc.), and you're good to go.

[Guest nysos]

Not sure I understand what you're saying here. Why is it a problem if the dust cover and FA are already installed?

And to partially answer your OP, the make of your bolt and carrier will not aid in fitment. Just buy one that's been properly staked (gas key), tested, and inspected (i.e. BCM, Daniel Defense, LMT, etc.), and you're good to go.

I have a daniel defense picked out at the moment, so that is reassuring. In regards to the dust cover and FA, it already being installed is not an issue - my point was that the different stages you can buy uppers appears to be stripped, assembled (FA/dust cover installed), & complete assembly (barrel, handguard, sights, etc.) no in between. No point buying a complete assembly if I want a different barrel, handguard, sights, etc. That leaves me with piecing together my own upper minus a FA and dust cover.

[Seaslug]

I have a daniel defense picked out at the moment, so that is reassuring. In regards to the dust cover and FA, it already being installed is not an issue - my point was that the different stages you can buy uppers appears to be stripped, assembled (FA/dust cover installed), & complete assembly (barrel, handguard, sights, etc.) no in between. No point buying a complete assembly if I want a different barrel, handguard, sights, etc. That leaves me with piecing together my own upper minus a FA and dust cover.

Well, the barrel is the really important part. Everything else is just gravy. You can buy an assembled BCM upper group (will still need handguard/rail, rear BUIS, charging handle, and BCG) direct from them, and they also offer various railed uppers, as well. You can also buy the other parts I just mentioned from their site to save on shipping.

If you want a Daniel Defense barrel, smartgunner.com always has great prices on custom upper groups. You can select a number of different options (rail systems, gas blocks, charging handle, BCG, etc.), and they're built to order at the factory.

I have both, plus a LaRue and a Noveske. Can't go wrong with any of 'em.

[Guest nysos]

Well, the barrel is the really important part. Everything else is just gravy. You can buy an assembled BCM upper group (will still need handguard/rail, rear BUIS, charging handle, and BCG) direct from them, and they also offer various railed uppers, as well. You can also buy the other parts I just mentioned from their site to save on shipping.

If you want a Daniel Defense barrel, smartgunner.com always has great prices on custom upper groups. You can select a number of different options (rail systems, gas blocks, charging handle, BCG, etc.), and they're built to order at the factory.

I have both, plus a LaRue and a Noveske. Can't go wrong with any of 'em.

I really don't mind building it, that is half of the reason I am doing this. If I wasn't going to build almost all of it myself, I would probably drop my money on a SCAR, tbh. I the geeky, techy, over analyzing, eye for detail, everything has to be done perfect type and building my own AR appeals to me on many levels. I will definitely check out smartgunner though for some prices! Thanks for the input.

[peejman]

I really don't mind building it, that is half of the reason I am doing this. If I wasn't going to build almost all of it myself, I would probably drop my money on a SCAR, tbh. I the geeky, techy, over analyzing, eye for detail, everything has to be done perfect type and building my own AR appeals to me on many levels. I will definitely check out smartgunner though for some prices! Thanks for the input.

If that's the case, build a FAL (I am). AR's are like Legos by comparison.

[Guest GunTroll]

If that's the case, build a FAL (I am). AR's are like Legos by comparison.

Or build up a tactical 700 (I am) FAL's are like Lincoln logs if AR's are like Legos. J/K

[Jon_L]

1 Most people go with the 12" for the longer sight radius. Should do fine.

2 1x8 should do fine with most kinds of ammo, so I've heard. The fluting I don't know about, as I barely looked into it when I was shopping. EDIT: apparently it has to do with the "stiffness" of the barrel, therefore the accuracy.

3 No. You're G2G.

4 Midlengths don't need heavy buffer springs. There isn't as much concussion as with carbine length gas systems.

5 Clamp-on should work fine.

6 D&H mags. D&H Ind. 30rd 5.56/.223 AR Magazine Invest in a mag loader to save your thumbs.

7 Spikes, Daniel Defense, BCM, LMT--any of those are G2G. Linky: Daniel Defense MPI Tested Bolt Carrier Group

Enjoy your shopping.

Edited July 8, 2011 by Jon_L

[Dolomite_supafly]

Disclaimer - on any of the parts I may have listed, feel free to suggest your own - the link I provide is not necessarily where I am buying it from, so price is not the issue but just where I have been browsing and comparing certain parts.

*****************************************************

1st - I am going to be using an 18" barrel w/ mid length gas ports - I want my free float quad rail to completely cover the gas block +1-2" to spare to help protect it. Will a 10" get the job done or do I need to go to a 12"?

Midwest Industries T-Series Free Float Tube Handguard Quad Rail AR-15 Aluminum - MidwayUSA

I would get the rifle length. You will have plenty hanging over to cover your gas block.

What I did with mine is use a standard free float tube and then drilled and tapped it to install the rails I wanted. For me having a quad rail is overkill. They tend to be either sharp or too big for most when you add rail covers. And in most cases most people don't use 10% of the rails. I used a DPMS free float tube, installed it and then drilled the tube for the rails I thought I needed and it works great. Not that hard to do, definitely easier than assembling an entire AR.

Midwest is some of the best as is Daniel Defense.

2nd - Barrels, is fluting worth the extra $$? And for an 18" what should I go with -1 in 7 twist, or 1 in 8? If someone asks what ammo I will be shooting, initially probably the cheapest stuff I can find until I get enough brass saved to start reloading - so I do not know what weight bullet I will be primarily firing, but if there are advantages of one barrel to the other, I can go with that barrel and fit my reloading needs around it. Primary use of this gun will be from a bench, mid range target shooting.

https://danieldefense.com/cold-hammer-forged-barrels/18-inch-chf-barrels/18-5-56mm-s2w-mid-length-chf-barrel-stripped.html

DPMS Barrel AR-15 Mini SASS 5.56x45mm NATO .920" Muzzle Diameter 1 in 8" Twist 18" Fluted Stainless Steel Black Teflon Pre-Ban - MidwayUSA

I would get the Daniel Defense over the DPMS any day of the week. DPMS, although good, is not great. It isn't even in the same league as DD. I would however get either a chrome lined or a stainless barrel. If you are going to be putting a lot of rounds down range get the chrome lined. If you are more worried with accuracy get the stainless one. Or get one that has been boron treated, can't remember the exact treatment name but it is amazing from what I have read.

As far as twist goes I would go with a 9 twist. You can shoot 69 grain bullets easily with the 9 twist. 8 twist will get the bullet weight to 77 grains which is about the heaviest bullet you are going ot find that can feed from a magazine. For most people 9 twist is plenty for what they are going to do. If you go with a fast twist some lightweight bullets will come apart from centrifugal force. I know 53 grain SMK's will come apart at under 3300 from in a 7 twist barrel. There is nothing to gain accuracy wise by choosing a 7 or 8 twist over a 9 twist. Problem with heavy bullets is they tend to be slower than the lighter bullets. Combine this with a faster twist and you have a combination that results in bullets not tumbling or fragmenting, only punching neat little holes. You can fiz this some with proper bullet selection but with FMJ's it is miserable.

A good read about bullet selection and such:

http://www.texassmallarmsresearch.com/TechInfo/556Performance/556Performance.pdf

3rd - butt stock - I am debating getting a magpul UBR - it comes with its own buffer tube and says it just needs a spring. My lower parts kit has a buffer retainer and buffer spring, is there anything else I need to get for this to work?

MagPul UBR Buttstock Assembly 7-Position Collapsible AR-15 Synthetic - MidwayUSA

4th - buffer spring - any reason to get an extra strength buffer spring? ie wolff

No need, standard springs work fine. If you need to fine tune it then use buffer weights to do the tuning.

5th - gas block - I was plan on going with a clamp on as it seems like it would hold better, any reason I should go with a set screw setup? I know some barrels don't have indents for the set screws but as I have no experience with either (in rifles), I would like your personal preference.

I would take a clamp on over a setscrew version. I have seen several setscrew versions work loose. Not saying it won't happen with a clamp on type but I have persoanlly seen less clamp on's coming loose.

6th - mags - polymer or steel? recommend a brand? there are so many to choose from...

I have always used aluminum and never had an issue. P-Mags can become brittle in really cold weather. Not really an issue here but it is an issue that aluminum mags don;t have. Another advantage is the aluminum feed lips will not spread like some plastice mags. Magpul has a mag cover to address that.

7th - bolt carrier/bolt/firing pin - I haven't found much info on these, should I go with a bolt carrier from the same company that makes my upper so it is more likely to be in spec with each other? go with a 3rd party? recommend me one? >_<

I would recommend getting the best bolt carrier you can afford. The bolts or lack of uality tend to cause the biggest problems for people. Bravo Company makes some of the best. As a matter of fact their bolt carriers and bolts tend to be better than Colts. Don't waste your money on any Ti coatings or even chrome. They tend to be so slick any lubricant won't stick and offer very little in any other areas as well. Spike's makes a very nice Boron Nitrided bolt and carrier but they are pricey.

thanks all to those who read/reply

Some of my thoughts. I am far from the expert but I have had some experiance with AR's over the years. And one more thing, try to find people in your area that have AR's you can handle. I have spent a small fortune on items I thought would be right for me but weren't. If you can find a few people hat have a variety of AR's you can figure out what works for you and what doesn't. AR's are very customizable and personal so don't be afraid to step outside of the circle of those who dringk from the "tacticool" fountain.

Dolomite

[Guest GunTroll]

I like your closing thoughts Dolomite.

[Guest nysos]

I like your thoughts on the rail, but I think I will stick with the quad. The main reason I want all that rail space is not for tacticool tons of accessories but so I can experiment with placement of what few things I will have. All in all my AR isn't going to be anything super fancy - my only requirements I set myself for is good quality, flat top, big quad rail, and 18" barrel. I also want it to be versatile enough to if I want to change up a few things it would be used more for 3gun down the road, or some carbine style classes. When it is first built, all I will be doing is trying to get back what little rifle skills I had shooting at 200yds up at ORSA. I haven't shot a rifle from a rest in a number of years, so that is part of the reason for this build and choosing an AR. I want it to be able to fill 2 different roles and my own needs as they change down the road, vs having to just buy a brand new gun.

All in all, most of your answers were what I thought was the case - but was just unsure. You have helped my resolve in purchasing certain parts. The only thing I don't know about now is my barrel, I am pretty much building a daniel defense upper on my own minus the handguard, but their 18" barrels are only offered in 1/7 twist for 5.56. Have any suggestions for a good company to look at their barrel selection to maybe find something with a 1 in 8 or 1 in 9 twist 18"?

[Jon_L]

I've heard some good things about White Oak Armament

White Oak SPRr Barrel for the Tactical AR15 at ADCO Firearms

[gotigers]

1st - The longer the FF tube the better. I would get 12" for mid or carbine and 15" for rifle. I like to reach way out.

2nd - Barrels - I dont think fluting is worth to much more money, but it looks great. personal preference. I dont buy flutes. 1:8 is the way to go.

4th - buffer spring - I dont see a reason for it.

5th - gas block - Both clamp and set screw can come lose. I prefer clamp on. Clamp on makes up for any tolerence slack. Just check it occasionally.

6th - mags - I like steel. any USGI are good. Just dont pay for the colt name.

7th - bolt carrier/bolt/firing pin - I dont see a need to match same as barrel, unless it is a match set for a high end barrel. Otherwise get a good full auto, pin shrouded BCG. BCM, palmetto state premium BCG, etc.

[Guest cheez]

1/8 is the best all around twist. Handles 55-77 grain bullets well. Magpul Pmags are the best way to go. Many if not most of our troops buy them with their own money rather than use the free issued aluminum mags.

[Dolomite_supafly]

1/8 is the best all around twist. Handles 55-77 grain bullets well. Magpul Pmags are the best way to go. Many if not most of our troops buy them with their own money rather than use the free issued aluminum mags.

I have spent a lot of time overseas and I would say just the opposite. Most troops I saw or came in contact with were using issued magazines. Not saying there weren't P-Mags in theater but most of the troops are not using them.

An 8 twist will shoot even the lightest bullets accurately. It depends on bullet construction more than anything. Centrifugal force will and does tear apart bullets with thinner jackets but if you have a bullet with a thicker jacket, even if it only weighs 40 grains, it will shoot fine out of a 8 twist. I have shot 40 grain bullets out of a 7 twist barrel without issue and have had issue with 53 grain SMK's. The SMK's would fly apart at about the 35 yard mark once velocity got over 3400 FPS in the 7 twist gun.

You want the twist rate to be as such that the bullet you are using is barely stable in flight. That way it tumble upon impact. Too fast of a twist and the bullet will not tumble. And with the heavier bullets the velocity is going to be slower and in short order the bullet will not have neough velocity to disrupt. And when the bullet will not tumble or disrupt it just passes through the intended target like a .22 rimfire. A bullet that is sideways will always have more surface area than a bullet that isn't.

Dolomite

[Guest nysos]

I need some recommendations for a barrel company. Daniel Defense only offers 1 in 7 twist on their 18", I was looking at some yankee hill barrels which I really like but they do not make any 18". The main reason I was wanting a longer barrel was to do a decent amount of bench shooting. What sort of accuracy gain am I looking at from going from a 16" to an 18"? I may just end up getting the 16 because I think the 20 will be too much.

[Jon_L]

Accuracy? There is basically no difference in accuracy between 16 and 18 barrels at shorter ranges (less velocity gives you less range). You'll find a decrease of velocity--but only about 200 feet per second.

[peejman]

Accuracy? There is basically no difference in accuracy between 16 and 18 barrels at shorter ranges (less velocity gives you less range). You'll find a decrease of velocity--but only about 200 feet per second.

This.

Why do you think the 20" will be too much?

[Guest nysos]

This.

Why do you think the 20" will be too much?

I started thinking about it and am actually going to go with a 20".

[Dolomite_supafly]

I started thinking about it and am actually going to go with a 20".

And if you don;t like it you can have it shortened. Kind of hard to lengthen a rifle barrel but shortening it is easy.

Dolomite

[JeffsSig]

Nysos,

Plus No matter what you get now you will get another soon. So get the 20 now and then build a 18 or 16 later.

[Guest nysos]

got all my parts on order for a functioning rifle w/ BUIS. still looking to figure out how I want to go with optics. thanks all for the help.