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Guest nysos

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Guest nysos
Posted

Ok, I am looking at planning my first AR build. Tools aside, I am wanting to know from the people that have experimented with their AR's enough with difference accessories, or built enough that they have come to conclude what certain items are a "must have" for them on future builds. This idea stemmed from me on a different through mentioning magpul grips, which I have made a mental note of.

Now to put this into perspective, I am not looking to go crazy with my build - it will be on the cheap(er) side but I would like to divide things into different categories if you could. But feel free to post different options for different price points, as I don't want this thread to be just about my build but to help others with future builds. So maybe if you recommend a budget lower, vs the most expensive one you would drop cash on, we could list each.

Must haves!

1. core components (ie, grip, stock, upper, lowers, etc.)

2. accessories recommended for now - not needed for the base build, but strongly recommended (ie. if it will enhance the functionality/feel to the point where even though it isn't "needed" but you would probably put one on every build"

3. accessories recommended for later (ie. optic rings/optics, rails, foregrips - these will mainly be personal preference depending on the type of build)

Thank you all for input, if there are enough responses and input I will try to compile everything into this post for future readers as I it could be beneficial to others.

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Posted

I have yet to see where a cast versus milled versus forged lower made any difference in accuracy or reliability. I have a .50 upper on a cheap cast EA lower that has been perfectly happy and accurate for about ten years and 700rds now. As long as the lower is made to spec, it will be fine. I have heard that the plastic/polymer lowers may have problems with the front hinge pin area.

Use good mil-spec parts for the internals (Fire control, bolt carrier, bolt, etc) and you will never regret it. Unless you are going to compete in long-range shooting, a chromed bore is a good thing. I would stick with 1/9 twist unless you plan to shoot bullets heavier than about 67gr. The military 1/7 twist will overstabilize bullets lighter than 65gr and has been known to cause bullet disintegration with light varmint bullets. The Army went with 1/7 twist in order to get improved penetration at long range. It has proven to be detrimental to combat performance with the standard 62gr, though.

I also stick with 20" barrels as the little 5.56mm needs every bit of speed in order to get optimum performance. I have not found that a 20" barrel hurts the handling except in very tight quarters. The M4 barrel profile has little to offer anyone who does not have a 40mm grenade launcher to mount on it. It is too light in front of the chamber where extra metal would help cooling and accuracy, and too heavy at the muzzle where it just adds weight (unless you have a 40mm grenade launcher). If you want a light handy carbine, get a standard 16" barrel, not the M4 profile. It will be lighter, more accurate, and handle better.

I am not an optics fan considering how many high-quality scopes I have broken. But, they are getting better and more durable. So I would recommend a flat-top upper with fold-down backup iron sights. Keep in mind that no folding sights will be as accurate or durable as the normal A2 fixed upper sights. I also like the handguards with the double heat shield. Keeping sight mirage down on a hot day is a good thing!

The rest is purely up to you. I believe in the KISS principle, and don't clutter up and weigh down my rifles with gadgets. Others like them. That's why I like a free market. Everyone gets pretty much what they want.

Posted

I'll chime in later when my power comes back up.

I have tried all different kinds of parts and found some work for me and some don't. I would recommend getting with a few AR owners and try their gear. It will save you time and money in the long run because AR's tend to be a bit more customizable and personal.

Dolomite

Posted

For not a lot of money check out DSArms for a complete lower and upper for less than you can buy a complete rifle in most cases. they make a pretty good product and you won't have to invest in any tools up front.

I've used their parts on a few builds and got good results. It'll provide a good base to improve on later.

Posted
For not a lot of money check out DSArms for a complete lower and upper for less than you can buy a complete rifle in most cases. they make a pretty good product and you won't have to invest in any tools up front.

I've used their parts on a few builds and got good results. It'll provide a good base to improve on later.

I would be careful about buying a DSA lower. I had one that would out of spec. The mag release hole in the lower wasn't big enough for the "button" to fit in. It wasn't a big deal because my Dad has a machine shop at his house and we just machined the button down where it would fit. I thought maybe this was just a one time thing until I saw another guy who had the same problem and had to use a drimmel on his which looked like crap. I wouldn't use them again but YMMV.

Posted
I would be careful about buying a DSA lower. I had one that would out of spec. The mag release hole in the lower wasn't big enough for the "button" to fit in. It wasn't a big deal because my Dad has a machine shop at his house and we just machined the button down where it would fit. I thought maybe this was just a one time thing until I saw another guy who had the same problem and had to use a drimmel on his which looked like crap. I wouldn't use them again but YMMV.

that stinks....good to know Jason

I had really good luck and was really impressed with the finish quality on my "Surplus Arms and Ammo Lower"....the Spikes lowers have been nice, but except for my custom ordered Zombie version the other one didnt have as nice of a finish as the SAA mentioned above.

Posted

the beauty of building an AR is the fact you have so many options. That's why you'll find yourself with more than one. I agree with the others about getting mil spec parts. As far as a lower goes, you want forged. But the name and pretty picture on the side is purly what you "like". It is just a chunk of aluminum, it's what you put in it that matters.

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