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New-to-me Millet DMS-1


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A good scope should hit the same spot no matter the magnification. At 50 yards for 5.56 just use 4x on the Millet. You can check it by backing it down 1x at a time. The scope should hit the same spot, however don't forget that with less magnification your reticle takes up a larger area on the target thus making it a little more difficult to be putting the reticle in the exact same spot. Some scopes will only mil out at a certain magnification, so if you're doing hold over shots at long range there might be a magnification that is recommended. This is a non issue with the Millet because it's not a BDC reticle.

As far as zeroing.... that scope should be on paper already since I zeroed it on a flat top AR :)

I hope you are kidding.

All guns are different, even AR's, so just because it was zeroed on your gun doesn't mean it will be on his. As a matter of fact in most cases they will never line up.

As far as zeroing I start at the lowest magnification and look for the "splash" of the round then increase magnification as I get closer to the zero. This is in an area where I can shoot at the ground to get close before moving to paper.

If you are zeroing on paper start by doing this. Remove the upper and then the bolt from the upper. Lay it on a flat, stable surface and look through the bore and then the scope. Make adjustments on the scope until what is seen in the bore is in the scope. This will work to get you on paper to about 50 yards. Also, the adjustments will be opposite while doing this. That is if the bore is lower than the scope you are going to have to use the "up" adjustments on the scope to bring the scope down to the bore.

I have always bore sited these two ways and bore sighting has always worked as well as saved me rounds when zeroing. I do it this what with every gun I can including bolt guns and autos. Don't be tempted to use one of the laser bore sighters as they tend to be problematic. Also, if you forget it is in the bore and fire a round it will ruin your rifle.

Dolomite

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I hope you are kidding.

All guns are different, even AR's, so just because it was zeroed on your gun doesn't mean it will be on his. As a matter of fact in most cases they will never line up.

As far as zeroing I start at the lowest magnification and look for the "splash" of the round then increase magnification as I get closer to the zero. This is in an area where I can shoot at the ground to get close before moving to paper.

If you are zeroing on paper start by doing this. Remove the upper and then the bolt from the upper. Lay it on a flat, stable surface and look through the bore and then the scope. Make adjustments on the scope until what is seen in the bore is in the scope. This will work to get you on paper to about 50 yards. Also, the adjustments will be opposite while doing this. That is if the bore is lower than the scope you are going to have to use the "up" adjustments on the scope to bring the scope down to the bore.

I have always bore sited these two ways and bore sighting has always worked as well as saved me rounds when zeroing. I do it this what with every gun I can including bolt guns and autos. Don't be tempted to use one of the laser bore sighters as they tend to be problematic. Also, if you forget it is in the bore and fire a round it will ruin your rifle.

Dolomite

I hope you are kidding...that scope was used on two rifles and the scope required 2 clicks of elevation between the two. It will be on paper, which is what I said, not that it would be zeroed.

Edited by Kenstaroni
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I didn't believe it would be zero'd in, DS, but I appreciate you bringing that up. Some people are uneducated to that fact. I knew what he meant by saying, "it would be on paper." Thanks, though. :koolaid:

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Guest GunTroll

I'll drift a bit....

I do agree that looking through the bore is a good way to go. AR's especially. At least they are easier to do it that way. I'd go a step further and say I do the "look through" at 100 yards. I'll punch paper at 50 before doing it at 100 but 100 works for me.

I have collimator's, magnetic Leupold thingy, but still just look through the bore the way folks have done it for years.

Oh yeah 13 AR's :koolaid: .

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I'll drift a bit....

I do agree that looking through the bore is a good way to go. AR's especially. At least they are easier to do it that way. I'd go a step further and say I do the "look through" at 100 yards. I'll punch paper at 50 before doing it at 100 but 100 works for me.

I have collimator's, magnetic Leupold thingy, but still just look through the bore the way folks have done it for years.

Oh yeah 13 AR's :koolaid: .

Never used my Leupold thingie on an AR. Never figured a muzzle device would be precise enough. The Leupold thingie comes in handy when you're replacing a zeroed optic with a new one. Doesn't matter how many AR's I've owned.

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