We need a simple FAQ on Knife Steel types

[vontar]

I know enough to avoid 316l

But I am trying to figure out what type of steel I need to get for a pocket knife blade.

Been searching the web and found some interesting reading but I figure you guys can sum it up better.

Why would a knife be made from surgical steel? - Yahoo! Answers

I learned about 440, then the A, B, C,

https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15333

I really liked this bit

We asked them (the manufacturer in china) for 440C, they sent us what they called "Chinese 440C"

I also found this

Knife Steel FAQ

also some reading along the way lead me to 4034 steel which might be similar to 440c but I am not sure.

I am trying to find a simple break down. I am not a metallurgist

[Major Kong]

Try this. Has some good info:

Knife Steel FAQ

[vontar]

I am about to give up trying to figure out the different qualities of steel for a knife. I just want a good EDC blade.

Not sure which Steel I should be considering.

[willis68]

According to RJ Martin my favorite custom knife maker, S30V is the best bang for your buck in todays knife steels. Crucial is the company he buys his steel from. The Zero Tolerance knives use this steel as well they know it is the best on the market for the money the best steel period in his opinion is S110V he hates working with it but loves what it does it is very expensive I own one of his knives in S110V he will be making me another after the Blade show with S110V and after that sheet is depleted told me he will never use it again

You will be well served having an EDC blade in S30V, S90V or S110V i spoke with RJ at length about steel choices for an EDC blade

Edited May 26, 2011 by willis68

[fullmetaljoe]

If all you want is a decent EDC, then don't get all wrapped up around different steels. Just select a model from a quality manufacturer that appeals to you and do a little research on that model to make sure it isn't a hunk of crap.

[vontar]

According to RJ Martin my favorite custom knife maker, S30V is the best bang for your buck in todays knife steels. Crucial is the company he buys his steel from. The Zero Tolerance knives use this steel as well they know it is the best on the market for the money the best steel period in his opinion is S110V he hates working with it but loves what it does it is very expensive I own one of his knives in S110V he will be making me another after the Blade show with S110V and after that sheet is depleted told me he will never use it again

You will be well served having an EDC blade in S30V, S90V or S110V i spoke with RJ at length about steel choices for an EDC blade

Thanks, that helps me allot. That helped me narrow down some of the reading and looks like I might go for a S30V, based on

S30V backs off on the wear resistance of S90V, but is significantly tougher and easier to sharpen.

I don't think i will be ordering anything custom, that is a bit much for my needs, although sounds good.

With out this, I would probably have went for a 440C I was looking at. It probably would have been decent but I want to be a bit above OK/Decent.

[hso]

What do you intend to do with the knife?

That may seem like a silly question, but picking the knife just based on the "best" steel someone recommends may leave you unsatisfied. Best could be edge retention if you cut a lot of carpet or cardboard or just hate sharpening. It could mean resistance to rust is important because you use your knife primarily to cut fruit for snacks. It also might mean that you don't want to pay a lot for a knife that uses a very modern steel. So before recommending a steel it is always good to find out what you want to do with the knife.

I have a lot of knives, both production and custom, and the steel (or other alloy) that went into them is only part of what makes them good or great for their intended purpose.

[Guest Scramasax]

I'll second hso's comment. To a large degree Heattreat and edge geometry are more important than the minute differences between comparable steels. Most people will never notice the difference between different ss alloys given the proper production.

There are also many different names for the same alloy steels depending on the manufacturer. I'm going to the Bladeshow and will see if any of the factories have an updated steel list available.

Cheers,

tad

[ProjectDexter]

IMO a good EDC should be true SS (non rusting) and something that keeps its edge fairly decent. In that order, there is a decent amount of steel to choose from. Good Luck.

[TnShooter83]

Now here's one for you. The steel makes no difference unless the maker heat treats it right.

Being a pocket knife I would go Stainless. In my case I work out doors and sweat a lot so stainless keeps the rust away....longer.

Yeah, longer. Stainless can and will rust. Unless it's a Nitrogen steel like x15 T.N. or H2.

And studies show they are not that much better than 440c and need to be work hardened.

Or you could go Carbon steel with a coating. Good old 1095 works great.

My advise is lowest to highest: AUS8, 440c , VG-10, 154c, or S30V

Any higher up you go takes more practice and time to sharpen.

Again, this is my opinion and experience.

[East_TN_Patriot]

Now here's one for you. The steel makes no difference unless the maker heat treats it right.

.

This is correct. Even the best steels can be useless if they are not heat treated correctly or if they are overheated by someone using a bench grinder to destroy the blade, uh... I mean *cough* sharpen it. Also, as others have alluded to, it depends on what the intended purpose of the knife is. Some steels are treated to be more flexible, but that means it will not hold an edge as well as a harder steel, but the harder steel is more brittle and will break more easily under lots of stress. Also, the construction of the blade is important to knife performance. For a rough use knife, I much prefer a convex grid or a flat grind because it leaves plenty of material behind the edge for durability. Hollow ground blades tend to cut a little better, but aren't as durable for heavy work like chopping. Again, it all depends on what you want to use the knife for.

Then we can get into handles. A fantastic blade is useless if it's put into a crappy handle or if the tang is so weak that even minimal rough use will snap the blade off at where the tang goes into the handle or the handle will come loose easily. I prefer a full tang knife with scales riveted to the handle. Stick tang knives offer better opportunity for putting on nice looking handles, but won't hold up to rough use for a long time.

In reality, knives are kind of like guns. They are a combination of materials and designs that all have their strong points and weak points. Some of the best steel out there for knife blades is good old high-carbon spring steel like you see on vehicle leaf springs, but it will rust very easily.

This discussion wants to make me get back into knife making again...

[I_Like_Pie]

Think less about the type of steel and more along the lines of what you are doing with it....

For me it must be

-stainless steel

-drop point

-hollow ground

-full tang

-sub 4" blade

-full size handle

I use it to cut rope, general fishing, occasional skinning, general workshop stuff.

Like mentioned before....find something that fits your requirements - Then find a reputable knife with a good report. It almost makes the task of picking the steel irrelevant as long it is of modern metallurgical knowledge.