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Posted

Hey everyone I'm sure there are a bunch of threads that have the answer to my question but I'm at work and not supposed to be on here (don't tell my boss/parents) I've been giving a rifle from my Great Grandmother a Rife of my Great Grandfather's its a WW11 Rife he brought back with him. I'm looking for a Good Gun safe to keep it in. I currently only own a few hand guns so don't know much about gun safe for rifles. Any suggestions?

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Posted

Buy something with a good fire rating. I sugest an hour at 1200 degrees as a starting point. Remimber that your collection will grow so pick a safe that allows the interior layout and capacity that will accomidate your future needs, not your current firearms. Look around for other items that you would not want to loose in a fire like your documents, laptop, camera, list of ex-girlfriends phone numbers, photos, etc. Lastly, look at the location you plan to put your safe. be sure you can get it there and secure it once in place. Bigger, thicker, heavier, and uglier are typically better. Lastly, do not give anyone the code/combo (especially your wife) because they do not always need to know when "another stupid gun" shows up.

Guest safes
Posted

man you hit the nail on the head about the combo the least they know the better off you are

Posted

Mason

Hit the nail on the head. I have been shopping myself for a good safe. I have me 2 picked out. Either case I have to support my floor better to hold it. I have a crawl space and depending on the safe I buy, 440 pounds or 710 pounds I want to support the floor under were I am going to put it. You may need to consider something like this.

Watch prices, they go up and down like roller coasters, about 200 bucks on most models, at least at gander mnt. Since I have 300 dollars in credit at gander mnt I will most likely be buying there.

Don't waste your money on a safe that is not fire rated. My first thought was anti theft because we have a great fire department, however don't bank on that. There is so little price different on those non fire rated safes to a fire safe, get it. Plus the locking is many times better as well. Those cheaper ones, when you check them out in the store, you feel that if you had enough time you could break into them, the doors did not feel very strong nor did I like the locks.

One thing that you may over look, moisture. You need a way to dry out the air. Some safes have a way to run in electric for small safe dehumidifiers.

However while I was there, a customer, not a saleman, told me there is rechargeable dehumidifier you can buy for about 30 to 40 bucks you just put in the safe and every few months you bring it out, bake it in your oven to dry it, let it cool down then put it back in the safe.

If you don't keep the moisture out by some method, I understand your guns will draw moisture and well we know that is not good.

Posted (edited)

I picked up a Liberty 23 gun safe on sale for $800. It's fire rated at 1200 degrees for 45 min. It has locking bolts on three sides of the door, which is a plus. I opted for the dial lock to save $130 and on the advice of my wife who says the keypad lock on their professional grade safe at her work has been replaced 3 times in the past couple of years. I am very pleased with it and find the dial lock no more of a burden than keying in the code (actually, I kind of enjoy it).

Most sources (including insurance and government sources) say the typical house fire burns at 1100 - 1200 degrees for 30 minutes. This temperature is at the hottest part of the fire, but it is common for other parts of the structure to heat up well above 300 degrees, which will destroy your firearms if they are not protected. If you live in reasonably close proximity to a fire department, this minimal rating will probably be all you'd ever need.

Is it the top-of-the-line in gun safes? No. Is it more than adequate for protecting a modest gun collection from your typical thief and house fire? Absolutely.

Before people start the "residential security container" versus "a real safe" debate and bring up the "Security on Sale" video, let's be realistic. The YouTube video showing people breaking into a "residential security container" is a video made by safe manufacturers. I say "residential security container" because that is likely what you are actually considering buying and what most people include as "gun safes," but purists get really flamed over the technical differences. The safe they tear into the video is an entry level safe and the guys ripping into it are professional safe manufacturers who have the large steel prybars and the knowledge of how and where to pry for quick entry. Thanks to that stupid video, any dirtbag with a web connection now knows how to pry open a gun safe. All that said, notice that the first thing they do is flip the safe on its back. It's much harder to pry one open quickly unless you do that and use the weight of the safe itself to help with the prying process. Most of us put them against a wall in a closet or somewhat confined area and bolt them down rather than setting them in the middle of an open warehouse. Next, most typical residential burglars aren't smart enough to look up safe prying on the web. Most burglars don't have a couple of 60" steel prybars laying around, don't have the money to purchase them, and don't waste their time stealing them. Those burglars who do are not likely to be targeting the average homeowner and their modest gun collection. They are going to find a big-time collector or gun store. I was a cop for 10 years and worked numerous residential and business burglaries. Never have I seen or heard of a burglary where the thieves pried open a home-owner's "residential security container." On the rare instance where a business safe was cracked, it involved a small document safe and the burglars typically stole the whole safe, took it to another location, broke it open with torches and/or heavy tools, then dumped the safe in a wooded area somewhere.

There are some cheaper metal gun cabinets out there, but they only provide minimal protection from curious kids and the least determined of thieves. They are clearly better than nothing at all, but if that's what your eyeballing, I'd highly suggest dropping a little more for at least one of the very entry-level fire rated safes.

Edited by East_TN_Patriot
Posted

I have an older version of the liberty presidential series. It holds a LOT of guns and weighs in at 1800 LBS Give or take (the guys who moved it for me weighed it for fun, so thats rough).

Liberty Safe Presidential Series - Best of the Best!

The only way out of my house with this is up a hill, up the stairs (which may not support the weight..!), or down the hill but thru thick woods. I am confident they cannot take it away to open later. It seems like it would be a royal pain to break into it even for someone prepared to deal with it.

I do not have any ammo in it, so it should survive a pretty good fire.

Guest adamoxtwo
Posted

there are a lot of great safes out there and a lot of well terrible waste of money safes. I personally did about 6 months of research and ended up with a Patriot safe. It has a 2 hour 1880 degree rating. My Only concern is I bought one too small. whatever size you think you want double it If it's a couple more buck I will tell you (as most people will) PAY IT!!! you will be glad you did. Of course if you can afford it.

Posted
Buy something with a good fire rating. I sugest an hour at 1200 degrees as a starting point. Remimber that your collection will grow so pick a safe that allows the interior layout and capacity that will accomidate your future needs, not your current firearms. Look around for other items that you would not want to loose in a fire like your documents, laptop, camera, list of ex-girlfriends phone numbers, photos, etc. Lastly, look at the location you plan to put your safe. be sure you can get it there and secure it once in place. Bigger, thicker, heavier, and uglier are typically better. Lastly, do not give anyone the code/combo (especially your wife) because they do not always need to know when "another stupid gun" shows up.

Some of us men buy stuff and bring it home and say "look here, I just bought this", and then go put it in the safe.

I don't know why people feel they have to hide crap from the wife (or husband) for that matter. Keeping crap from each other is why marriages fail. Sure you might catch crap the first time you do it, maybe even the second time, but once you tell her that "at least I'm not trying to hide anything from you" they come around to your way of thinking real fast. Unless they are really anti gun, then I dont know what to tell you.

Guest adamoxtwo
Posted
Buy something with a good fire rating. I sugest an hour at 1200 degrees as a starting point. Remimber that your collection will grow so pick a safe that allows the interior layout and capacity that will accomidate your future needs, not your current firearms. Look around for other items that you would not want to loose in a fire like your documents, laptop, camera, list of ex-girlfriends phone numbers, photos, etc. Lastly, look at the location you plan to put your safe. be sure you can get it there and secure it once in place. Bigger, thicker, heavier, and uglier are typically better. Lastly, do not give anyone the code/combo (especially your wife) because they do not always need to know when "another stupid gun" shows up.

I Hope your wife (or ex) has her own safe with a firearm to protect her.

Guest safes
Posted

I like East_Tn_patriot comments of safes I have been selling safes for over 20 years the "residential security container" thing does not mean much to me i have china safes that dont have this UL test and will out perform the ones that do have it one safe company started this a long time ago and all the rest did it costing us all in the long run higher safes prices UL is not cheap all safes have lifetime warranty's but the fine print takes it back like if you you have insurance and it pays your claim your safe wont get replaced by the manufacturer its all in there warranty you just have to read the fine print or have a sales person that will tell you the truth i have sold cannon safes at one time they give lifetime warranty on the lock but guess what they only pay labor 5 years well guess what cost the most the labor if the safe is locked and wont open its all a play on words and how you say it

Guest ForPointSix
Posted

Buy the largest safe you can afford. Then measure, measure, and measure again!! I purchased a Liberty Fatboy 64 from The Safe House in Nashville (great people). After 3 days of negotiations, the wife finally agreed to letting it go in our bedroom. I moved all the furniture from the front door leading all the way to the spot I picked out in the bedroom. Only to find out when the safe was delivered that it was to large to make the turn from my hallway into the bedroom!.!.!.!

Posted

How about a Safe in the garage or basement?

In addition of one not being in a controlled temp environment, what kinda of precautions/additions should be made?

Posted
Buy the largest safe you can afford. Then measure, measure, and measure again!! I purchased a Liberty Fatboy 64 from The Safe House in Nashville (great people). After 3 days of negotiations, the wife finally agreed to letting it go in our bedroom. I moved all the furniture from the front door leading all the way to the spot I picked out in the bedroom. Only to find out when the safe was delivered that it was to large to make the turn from my hallway into the bedroom!.!.!.!

I had this same problem, however mine was going into my home office. Sat in the living room for about a week befor eI convinced her to let me "widen the door" which would give me my clearance, well go it in, rebuilt the frame, been 4 or 5 years and still haven't put a new door up. LOL.

Guest safes
Posted

well there is a couple of things you can do eva-dri or a dri rod if you like electricity in your safe i dont thats why i like the eva-dri you dont have to run ele in your safe but i sell both some people have so much moisture they have to us a dri rod i would go with basement over garage because of access for someone to steal it just my thoughts my web site Gun Safes, Need 1? Southeast's largest gun safe distributor.

Posted

Beware of the Patriot Safe ! They list their fire rating as a 2 hour at 1880, yeah right ! they use half the amount of fire board as other safe companies that have tested their safes and have proof that their ratings are not just written down on a piece of paper. The bolt works are light gauge steel that will not hold up in a pry attack. The lock is in their words " Top Secret" but is a joke when you take the back of the door off and look at it. I could drill this safe open in under 5 mins due to it not having hard plate to protect the lock. They say their safes are made in the USA but why do they routinely get containers of safes from oversea's and when you inspect the safe it has all of the signs of a Chinese made safe. There are many better options at just as good a price, so just remember to not believe every thing you read on a website unless a company can back it up.

MB

Guest adamoxtwo
Posted
Beware of the Patriot Safe ! They list their fire rating as a 2 hour at 1880, yeah right ! they use half the amount of fire board as other safe companies that have tested their safes and have proof that their ratings are not just written down on a piece of paper. The bolt works are light gauge steel that will not hold up in a pry attack. The lock is in their words " Top Secret" but is a joke when you take the back of the door off and look at it. I could drill this safe open in under 5 mins due to it not having hard plate to protect the lock. They say their safes are made in the USA but why do they routinely get containers of safes from oversea's and when you inspect the safe it has all of the signs of a Chinese made safe. There are many better options at just as good a price, so just remember to not believe every thing you read on a website unless a company can back it up.

MB

Dude seriously quick hating on a product that is not yours.

Beware to all!!! any product not sold at the safe house is junk!

Posted (edited)
Dude seriously quick hating on a product that is not yours.

Beware to all!!! any product not sold at the safe house is junk!

Adam,

I never said that in all of my post discussing this issue !

One thing I will continue to do is tell the truth about PS and if you keep posting incorrect statements I will continue to state the facts.

Edited by av88tor
Posted
I like East_Tn_patriot comments of safes I have been selling safes for over 20 years the "residential security container" thing does not mean much to me i have china safes that dont have this UL test and will out perform the ones that do have it one safe company started this a long time ago and all the rest did it costing us all in the long run higher safes prices UL is not cheap all safes have lifetime warranty's but the fine print takes it back like if you you have insurance and it pays your claim your safe wont get replaced by the manufacturer its all in there warranty you just have to read the fine print or have a sales person that will tell you the truth i have sold cannon safes at one time they give lifetime warranty on the lock but guess what they only pay labor 5 years well guess what cost the most the labor if the safe is locked and wont open its all a play on words and how you say it

Any suggestions in th 1k range?

Posted (edited)

East TN Patriot

I will agree with your statement about fire ratings to a certain point ,but if on the other hand you are storing various items in your safe that are damaged at different tempertures, then a higher fire rated safe is probably a good investment. A lot of items that are stored in a typical gun safe (old pictures, collectable coins, back up disks, etc ) are damaged at lower tempertures and having a longer rated safe will keep all of your items from having any damage.

Another thing you speak about in your post is the issue with RSC rated safes and the video's showing a safe being pried open and the method that is being used is unrealistic and that you would have to drop a safe on its back to get into it and that burglars are not that smart and cannot pry open a cheap safe. I will have to say that in the over 18 years that I have been in the safe business I have seen numerous safes that have been pryed open standing up, one with a long handled screw driver. Others I have seen opened used various methods and some took longer that others. I have never seen one of the high end gun safes built by a reputable company that was broken into by smash and grabbers , but have seen low end "big box store" safes popped open in a matter of minutes. One report that I saw was an individual that had all of his guns stolen out of his safe, How? well he didn't lock the door ! Always lock the door of your safe.

There are no safes that someone cannot get into, it just takes time and the knowledge to open it.

One other thing.......... like the Atlas Shrugged quote

Edited by av88tor
Guest adamoxtwo
Posted
Adam,

I never said that in all of my post discussing this issue !

One thing I will continue to do is tell the truth about PS and if you keep posting incorrect statements I will continue to state the facts.

What proof do you have to support your claims that they are made in China? You haven't supported any of your accusations with evidence. You just sound like a cry baby when people mention anything you don't stock in your shop. It's pathetic really.

Posted
What proof do you have to support your claims that they are made in China? You haven't supported any of your accusations with evidence. You just sound like a cry baby when people mention anything you don't stock in your shop. It's pathetic really.

Adam,

I thought this discussion was over, but if you insist, I have one in my showroom that I have disassembled and if you want to take a look at it I will be happy to show it to you or anyone else. I show it to everyone that comes in as an example of a cheap safe that is built poorly. I have traveled to CA to research PS aka Marlow Safe Company and if you considered that they regularly receive containers of safes from overseas and they have all of the markings of a China made safe, like what you ask ? the dry board has Chinese lettering on it, the glue they use is the same that all overseas safes use, the wood that the pallets are made of is from China, the cardboard is from China, the lock is from China. I had a customer that bought a PS safe and had it shipped to me to deliver and guess what ? it was made in China. Do you need any other proof?

Like I said Adam , if you like your safe great, I just think that its not all that PS claims that it is...............

Guest adamoxtwo
Posted
Adam,

I thought this discussion was over, but if you insist, I have one in my showroom that I have disassembled and if you want to take a look at it I will be happy to show it to you or anyone else. I show it to everyone that comes in as an example of a cheap safe that is built poorly. I have traveled to CA to research PS aka Marlow Safe Company and if you considered that they regularly receive containers of safes from overseas and they have all of the markings of a China made safe, like what you ask ? the dry board has Chinese lettering on it, the glue they use is the same that all overseas safes use, the wood that the pallets are made of is from China, the cardboard is from China, the lock is from China. I had a customer that bought a PS safe and had it shipped to me to deliver and guess what ? it was made in China. Do you need any other proof?

Like I said Adam , if you like your safe great, I just think that its not all that PS claims that it is...............

I'm just saying you have not proved anything just continued to talk about what you believe to be the truth. Sorry I don't believe you and it's not because I don't want to....it's because of your character and how you handle yourself. Personally (and this is my opinion and mine alone) you have good products at your store......something I have never disputed and I think you can agree I have never tried to steer anyone away from your establishment. Ok now for you......I would never personally give you my business because of how you try to talk down and degrade people on this site. I flat out don't believe you are making factual statements. and after you latest post I think you are flat our lying now.

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