HELP MY GLOCK 35 IS FULL AUTO

[Guest farmerscsmith]

I put a Titanium Striker Complete Fulcrum Trigger Kit kkm barrel i have shot about 500 rounds in it and today it started firing full auto i have a state match in 2 weeks please help Iput the stock trigger in and it is fine has anyone had trouble with this trigger?

[Erik88]

what's wrong with full auto?

but seriously though, did you "polish" anything?

[Guest farmerscsmith]

nope there is alot of scratch marks on the safety plunger

[Erik88]

You should ask the guys over on Glocktalk.

[Guest farmerscsmith]

thanks

[Jonnin]

Really? Can you tell us exactly what you did again.... !

The only difference between a full auto and a semi is a catch after each shot that has to be reset by release and re-pull the trigger. These designs vary and I am not really into glocks, but likely enough its just something is in there too tight or too loose that is preventing this from working properly, either its too tight and doenst catch at all or too lose and catches and releases without the trigger reset. I would say open it up & watch what happens, it should be obvious where the mechanical stuff goes wrong, then try to figure out why & see if it can be fixed easily.

[Mike.357]

bet it was fun anyway.

[Links2k]

Silly me. I would keep it that way for a fun range gun and buy another one for competition.

[Grunt67]

bet it was fun anyway.

Maybe, maybe not. LOL. Many moons ago, I had a Remington Mod.742 Bdl. in

30-06 go full auto on me. Scared the crap out of me! Never did it before or

after. Have NO idea what went wrong, but had my full, undivided attention for a

long time afterward. Full auto is great if you're expecting it. Hair raising otherwise.

This was maybe 40 yrs. ago. Still in memory.

[nb forrest]

The trigger bar, striker or both are worn. It has happened to me also but it's a cheap fix.

[flyanything]

Did it stop firing when you let go of the trigger, or continuous nonstop with one pull and release? In the panic state you probably didn't want to let go. If it didn't stop after trigger release, lock it up until you can get it to a gunsmith. If it did, just get it to a gunsmith, or sell it to me.

[Guest farmerscsmith]

it will fire when u pull the trigger and when u let off. watch the vid

[Garufa]

Good thing you filmed that in the dark 'cause if the man catches that fully auto business you might be in some trouble.

[Guest farmerscsmith]

aint that the truth

[Karnage]

The trigger bar, striker or both are worn.

I agree. You need to check the engagement of the trigger bar and the striker lug using the orange half slide cover plate. A minimum of 2/3rds of the surface of the rear leg of the trigger bar should be in contact with the striker lug.

Edited April 3, 2011 by Karnage

[Guest gw2and4]

I agree. You need to check the engagement of the trigger bar and the striker lug using the orange half slide cover plate. A minimum of 2/3rds of the surface of the

rear leg of the trigger bar should be in contact with the striker lug.

+1. I believe you should also check the connector. Did the trigger kit you installed have a different connector then the OEM minus? I had a similar issue with an aftermarket connector that I modified and polished, and it seemed the reset was just too short for reliable function under recoil. If during dry fire your 35 has a very short reset, it could likely be the connector alone causing the issue (especially if it's been polished or modified in any way at all). Try leaving the trigger kit in the gun and just swapping back to the OEM minus connector. Once I did that, my problem went away. I destroyed that connector for obvious reasons and recommend you do the same if that turns out to be your issue. Good luck.

[graycrait]

After trying quite a few aftermarket parts I stick with Glock stock and just polish, not dimensionally change, engagement surfaces. where the cruciform and striker engage I just barely knock off the sharp release edges of the striker and cruciform. If you want some more fun just get a Wolf competition trigger kit. Lastly the safety plunger can have the "sharp" edges radiused by using a small dowel and holding it against a fine grinder like a paper wheel grinder. Just don't make the plunger smaller in length or width. This makes for a safe and fun gun at the range when riding the reset.

[William_Munny]

Bummer... get another one.

[Alleycat72]

Malfunctioning AR15 becomes a machine gun? « Totalrecoil

[Guest farmerscsmith]

+1. I believe you should also check the connector. Did the trigger kit you installed have a different connector then the OEM minus? I had a similar issue with an aftermarket connector that I modified and polished, and it seemed the reset was just too short for reliable function under recoil. If during dry fire your 35 has a very short reset, it could likely be the connector alone causing the issue (especially if it's been polished or modified in any way at all). Try leaving the trigger kit in the gun and just swapping back to the OEM minus connector. Once I did that, my problem went away. I destroyed that connector for obvious reasons and recommend you do the same if that turns out to be your issue. Good luck.

GOOD CALL NEW CONNECTOR ON THE WAY THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP

[Dave Shooter]

Recommend you do not reassemble it with the combination of parts that caused the problem. ATF may take a dim view of unregistered full-auto, even if unintentional.

When you do test fire recommend you do the old 1-2-3 drill. Load only one round, fire, and see if gun is "cocked" properly. Repeat 5 times, if all seems good load only two rounds and repeat the drill then go to three rounds.

[graycrait]

Dave Shooter,

Good Advice! This is a must when working on old semi-auto .22 rifles!

Craig in Clarksville

[Dolomite_supafly]

This seems to be the standard among Glock folks.

3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less take up and over travel. The other two connectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $15 HERE.

Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 HERE.

While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results.

For instructions on replacing your connector and trigger spring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts Disassembly Page. Just click "Disassembly" on the left of his home page. They give instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work on so give it a try.

I no longer own Glocks but I can say that the .25 polish job helps out a lot. Not so much with the pull weight, that is what the 3.5 connector and spring are for, but to make the trigger feel smoother. Maybe I need to go back to the dark side again, I am not sure my 1911's would approve.

Dolomite

[Dolomite_supafly]

One more thing, I would remove the parts you added for now or take the pistol to a gunsmith immediately. Allowing it to remain in its current state knowing it is a machine gun can get you in all kinds of hot water even if it is an unintentional malfunction.

Although some might think it is cool it is a violation that can land you at club fed for a while. The worst part would be the loss of the priviledge to vote as well as own firearms.

The ATF can, and often does, lurk on boards looking for violators and you are not as hidden behind your screen name as you might think.

Dolomite

[JReedEsq]

One more thing, I would remove the parts you added for now or take the pistol to a gunsmith immediately. Allowing it to remain in its current state knowing it is a machine gun can get you in all kinds of hot water even if it is an unintentional malfunction.

Dolomite

+1000