Salt Wood Brownings and Corrosion

[graycrait]

Today I saw an ad on another website for a 1966 Browning T-Bolt and here is what it said that set alarms off in my head: 1 ( smaller than a dime) small spot of surface rust between barrel and stock.

I would love to see what that barrelled action looks like without the stock, maybe it is great and then it might not be.

I know some of you also know about Browning Saltwood problems of the mid-60's, but many do not. For those that don't here is a primer.

A saltwood discussion: Browning Saltwood questions - TheFiringLine Forums

Salt wood resulted from a process used on Browning's to speed up the curing time of wood...the salt would draw out the moisture and speed up the drying process, unfortunately the salt residue remained in the wood grain and caused metal corrosion where the metal and wood made contact. This was not a Browning problem, but a supplier problem.

About 1965, a large wood supplier sent wood not only to Browning for FN's use but also to Bishop, Fajen, Winchester, Ruger and to the US Military for M-14 stocks. This company was drying their walnut using granulated salt, by covering the wood with salt and placing it in quonset huts.

The wood dried so quickly that the workers said they could actually see a steady drip of moisture coming from the wood. The wood was already cut into the appropriate size planks and no one thought that any salt residue would remain on or in the wood after final shaping, sanding, and finshing.The US Government stopped using walnut for the M-14 rifles and went to other types of wood because properly cured wood was so scarce at the time.

In Browning's case, the problem first showed up starting in 1966 and ends on their guns about 1973. Superposes and T-Bolts made between 1967-1973 should be looked at; Safari, Medallion or Olympian made between 1967-1976; and any A5's 2,000,000 edition Commemorative's should be looked at.

Inspect any place the metal touches the wood. Take out the butt plate screws and look them over carefully. If you find no rust, the gun is probably OK. Sometimes you can test the wood with silver nitrate. Place a drop or two on a hidden spot on the wood, if it bubbles you have a problem

(From "Browning Sporting Arms of Distinction" by Matt Eastman)

Browning procrastinated in signing the wood contract in Europe because there was a price spike. They thought it was a ploy and put off the purchase knowing there was plenty of cheap California wood available if needed. By the time the European wood deal fell through the California wood was gone.

The only figured wood available was planks bought in California but sent to South America for furniture. Browning was trapped and had to take it. This is where the salt curing was being done but Browning missed it being a problem.

They then tried to sell some of these to TRW for M-14 stocks but Claro walnut failed the physical test and was never used. Bishop, Fajen, the Warsaw Missouri pact, bought some and sold it in semi-inlets.

Browning nearly went broke from the fiasco. A serious tax problem about the same time almost put them under and as a result they lost the FN connection and were forced to Japan and Portugal for guns and parts. That's why round knob, long-tang, (RKLT) Browning's are more desirable. If a Browning has French walnut stocks it can not be salt wood. All Claro, especially the higher grades, is suspect.

[KahrMan]

That is really interesting. I helped my Uncle sell a mid-60s Browning Superposed a couple of years ago. It had been in storage for 30+ years. When I took it out I found a rust spot a little smaller than a quarter. Half of the spot was exposed and the other half was under the stock. I assumed my Uncle had put the gun up with a wet stock or something. After reading this, I am wondering if this was the problem.

[gregintenn]

Great post. I've seen the effects of the saltwood stocks, and heard it discussed in passing, but never to the degree you've shared here. Thanks.

[Guest GunTroll]

I have one on a T-bolt. Mine is strictly under the stock line and can't be seen well above the stock line. Rust I'm talking about. I re-finished the rifle and stock as soon as I separated them and saw what was going on. I did a quick google check and found out the salt issue. Mine was pretty badly rusted. Real shame too because this thing was mint with the rear aperture sight included for the low price of $60. Thats what the owner said he paid for it back in the day so thats what he wanted. Also his wife was a CA lib and guns could no longer be in his house. I glassed the action and barrel channel to attempt to keep the salt wood from getting contact to the metal. I also oil often. The rifle looks real nice today.

Good info you posted there for all to see.