Anybody around Oak Ridge have a MOACKS I can borrow?

[Jon_L]

I'm looking to stake my gas keys (I have two BCGs, one poorly staked and the other not at all) and don't want to drop the cash to pick up one myself seeing as I may never buy another AR, and if I do I'll be sure to check the gas key myself. I would take a hammer and a screwdriver to it (as mentioned other places) but I would hate to mess it up.

Or if I could send my BCGs to you with a payment of some kind, that would be fine.

Thanks,

Jon

[Guest 6.8 AR]

I wouldn't use a screwdriver. if you have a

decent vise and a hammer and punch,

you should be able to do it just fine. All

you are doing is locking the screws. The

rest doesn't matter.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jon_L]

If nobody is willing to let me borrow one, I may as well. For the price of a MOACKS, I can buy a Bravo BCG, you know?

Edited March 30, 2011 by Jon_L

[crashgordan]

HI.

I have the MOACKS. works perfectly every time.

I'm happy to stake yours.

i stake for everyone around here for $5.

this includes checking torque specs before staking using a precision inch/pounds torque wrench.

if undertorqued, I will torque to Mil Spec or whatever spec you prefer.

I would drop in in the mail back to you the same day it arrives.

If you are interested I can send you pics of stake work i've done, but it looks like it's supposed to.

I'm in Chattanooga area.

Safely wrapped in bubble wrap and mailed in the $5 USPS mailer might work, or their mailing tube?

let me know if interested.

crash~

[crashgordan]

I wouldn't use a screwdriver. if you have a

decent vise and a hammer and punch,

you should be able to do it just fine. All

you are doing is locking the screws. The

rest doesn't matter.

Don't use a screwdrive...

While i think the punch is probably ok, as 6.8 pointed out, i've been witness to several bolts over the years that were done with a hammer and punch and i've later seen gas key screw failures.

While i believe this to be rare, the fact that i've seen it a few times personally over the years caused me some concern and i've gone to strictly properly staked or MOACKS tool staked bolts.

I've looked into it on multiple forums and the best answers i can find sorta make sense.

The wisdom of those who know far more than i, and have also seen this, believe that in staking by displacing the metal from the gas key into the screw, places a high shock load at the top of the threads/base of the screw head. And over time, that it can (not will) eventually fail due to bolt action/heat expansion, blah blah blah.

The thinking seems to be that by displacing in the manner the MOACKS or any other GI manufacter (machine displacing VS hammering away), places even and measured pressure against the gas key while moving metel into the screw, decreasing the likelyhood of weakening or possibly fracturing any of the key screw.

i know that some bolts carriers out there use lower grade steel in their gas key screws, (which i will not use ever, only BCM or better parts/keys/screw here)

I'm not debating this, but i'm open to hear from others. And I know there's a million guys out there that have hammered a punch into theirs and never had a problem.

It's just my observation and experience on heavy use guns. Just repaired one this week in fact. Front key screw dropped off where the threads exited the bolt and came through the key.

may still have it on the bench. maybe i'll post pics.

[Jon_L]

Sounds great, PM incoming.

EDIT: your inbox is full.

Edited April 2, 2011 by Jon_L

[crashgordan]

Dude, sorry.

I opened up some space...

sorry about that.

all work and no play...

talk soon~

[leroy]

crash:_____________

RE: The displacement of metal with a swedging tool vs a hammered type tool (...like a punch or chisel (screwdriver?)...). In one of my former lives (...when i was working...) i spent quite a bit of time on the machining/fatigue of metal parts stuff. The problem is that when you put a divot that has a sharp edge in these hardened parts, it acts as a stress riser and can lead (...with lots of fatigue...) to cracking. That's why you see parts that are subjected to lots of stress machined, carefully radiused, and polished off in machines like rotors, armatures, bolts, etc. The problem aint the hammering; it's the sharp edge that can be left at the bottom of the divot (...or any sharp or square corner...) when you lock the part down by upsetting the metal. If ya have a round nose tool, hammmering doesnt seem to make any difference. The advantage to swedging is that it is more controlled than a hammer blow.

Hope this helps a bit.

leroy