What all is needed to get started reloading?

[2000silverz28]

Can somebody post a list of everything I would need to start reloading? I'm thinking about trying it but I don't know what all I'll need.

[Guest Crunchman]

Best and simplest way is to get one of the Lee "all-in-one" kits, plus a set of dies in whatever caliber you want, plus a good load book like the Lyman 48th edition. Read, check the net for info, best of all, find someone to be your mentor and walk you through the procedures. Also a good starter book is "The ABC's of Reloading" edited by Bill Chevalier.

Just noticed that you're in Hornsby. Send me an email or PM and we'll talk about it.

[Im Neero]

Rifle or pistol, and how much do you shoot?

[Rightwinger]

Seriously,

A buddy that already reloads!

Try a bit on there set up so you will know if you want to do it or not. I love to reload. It is slow quiet time for me, just like deer hunting. Its not for some. You don't need beer, TV or other distractions going on doing this.

It's not that expensive to start, but if you decide you don't like it later, even a Lee Anniversary kit is a pain to look at every time you walk by it. Kinda like that exercise machine everyone has had once in their room or garage:p

If you like it, get a press, dies for your favorite caliber or two (don't buy a set for everything you got until your sure!) a good set of calipers, a very good scale, a powder trickler and Lyman's 45th edition reloaders handbook.

Even though I started with the Lee Anniversary kit, most of it is stuck in the box again and all I use of it is the press. The scale and powder thrower are crap. You'll also need to decide how you will trim and condition your brass. A tumbler for cleaning is a great way to process a lot of brass. Lee makes handheld case length gauges and trimmers, Lyman and RCBS make lathe like trimmers which are nice as well. Go with the Lee handheld until your sure.

Powder, primers and bullets from Midway or your local reloaders shop and your on your way!

Edited February 15, 2008 by Rightwinger

[R1100R]

+1 on the "ABC's of Reloading". I have been reloading 30 years and every time I look at it I find something. It is best to completely read up before starting. There is not much savings in generic calibers ie 9mm/38SPL.But there is huge savings in specialty ammo

such as 44 mag and match .308.

Edited February 15, 2008 by R1100R

[Guest rj8806]

I was also considering learning how to re-load my ammo and found this thread. I currently own the 3 handguns in my sig (.45ACP and 2- 9mm x 18 makarov). The makarov ammo in particular is becoming extremely hard to find and very expensive when you do find it. The .45ACP ammo is pretty easy to find but is also becoming a little pricey considering I shoot 150-200 rounds every week and half to 2 weeks (what can I say, I like shooting ). The range I go to down in Vonore sells .45ACP reloads for $11.99/50 rounds which is pretty good I think and so far, out of approx. 300 rounds I've only had 3 incidents where the hammer dropped and it didn't fire. I simply pulled the hammer back, pulled the trigger again and bang she went.

It was mentioned earlier in the thread to get a couple of books, Lyman's 45th edition and the ABC's of reloading, can anyone tell me where to find those books in the Knoxville, Maryville area? Is there anybody in this area( I live down in Madisonville) that would be willing to show me how to reload before I invest in the equipment? I would want to make sure it's something I really want to do before buying the equipment. Any idea how much it would cost per round, to reload? I mean, how much does it typically cost to "make" 50 rounds of .45ACP (assuming you already have the equipment)? I'm figuring if I can buy 50 rounds for $11.99, it must only cost about $5 or $6 bucks to actually buy the material and make the reload. Am I close in the cost or way off?

Richard

Edited March 31, 2008 by rj8806

[Guest sling]

For loading plinking 45 ACP i've come to around 9.50\50 with once fired brass from... i think brassmanbrass.com. Bullets are from midway.

Since you can get 45 for 11 and some change anyways i dont know if it would necessarily be justifiable to reload just to save 2 bucks. Unless you just want to reload. Of course, some of us love to do it. Its very relaxing.

I'd also recommend the Lee's Modern Reloading manual. Not only does it have reloading data in it for ever cal under the moon but it also has quite the bit of "how to."

[Guest rj8806]

For loading plinking 45 ACP i've come to around 9.5050 with once fired brass from... i think brassmanbrass.com. Bullets are from midway.

Since you can get 45 for 11 and some change anyways i dont know if it would necessarily be justifiable to reload just to save 2 bucks. Unless you just want to reload. Of course, some of us love to do it. Its very relaxing.

I'd also recommend the Lee's Modern Reloading manual. Not only does it have reloading data in it for ever cal under the moon but it also has quite the bit of "how to."

Wow, I figured it would have been cheaper than $9.50 but that's o.k.. Mostly, I still want to learn how to do it and the other reason would be so I can reload for my Makarov pistols(9mm x 18). As I said before, those are getting extremely rare and expensive(ammo). Any idea where to find the books mentioned in the Knoxville, Maryville area?

Richard

[Guest sling]

I dont know Knoxville that well so i dont know anywhere locally. A single stage will be the best way to learn starting out and you dont have to break the bank when purchasing one. Eventually, when you get more experienced and get tired of it taking an hour to load 50 rounds (whichever comes first) you may decide to upgrade to a progressive press. Honestly, I'd order from Midwayusa.com. They ship from Missouri and with standard ground shipping stuff gets to my door in Nashville in two days. Check the links i've provided for a pretty good setup. All you have to do to change between 9x18 and 45 ACP would be to purchase the corresponding dies. The dies should come with the shell plates as well.

Press kit: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=121744

I'm not sure why they dont include the reloading manual with this now... they used to.

Dies:

45 - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=661032&t=11082005

9x18- http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=727371&t=11082005

Scour midway for the reloading manual of your choice. You'll also need bullets, brass, powder, and primer. All of these you can also get at midway. However, midway charges...*ahem* actually UPS charges a hazmat fee of 20 bucks for pretty much anything that could "cause a fire." Black powder i might understand...but not smokeless.

Anyways, 20 additional dollars onto the price tag of primers and powder and they wont ship the two together. So. I'd find someone local to you that stocks those two things. Hope that helps.

As for prices with components... they're only going to go up. The war, the copper "crisis", communism, whatever you want to blame it on, its only going to get worse. Pistol brass will last you forever if its straight walled and you dont load super hot. As for ammo reloading costs... i've got an excel sheet that i record all my cost per 50 on. I'm nerdy like that. I'd be glad to answer any questions you've got. Email me at bainjj1@gmail.com if you want.

Edited March 31, 2008 by sling
Found the link for 9x18 dies

[Guest Crunchman]

What Sling said!

If you want to order the Lyman 48th or the ABC's, you can find them at the link below (link is for the Lyman, but you can search for the ABC's) http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&tn=Lyman+48th&x=60&y=17

Check at your favorite gunshop for any dealers in your area that handles reloading supplies. There should be someone around that has them. Gander Mtn. has a limited inventory, at least the one here does.

[Guest sling]

Ah here it is. Modern Reloading. IMHO one of the best 14 bucks you can spend your money on before buying all of your equipment.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=484416

But, as usual, its out of stock.

[Guest dotsun]

For loading plinking 45 ACP i've come to around 9.5050 with once fired brass from... i think brassmanbrass.com. Bullets are from midway.

Since you can get 45 for 11 and some change anyways i dont know if it would necessarily be justifiable to reload just to save 2 bucks. Unless you just want to reload. Of course, some of us love to do it. Its very relaxing.

I'd also recommend the Lee's Modern Reloading manual. Not only does it have reloading data in it for ever cal under the moon but it also has quite the bit of "how to."

You only have to buy the brass once. Or do like most do and buy loaded ammo and keep all your brass until you have a good supply. Reloading is much more cost effective when you recycle the brass.

[Guest rj8806]

Thanks sling and crunchman...I'll be checking those links today after I get rolling here at work.

Someone earlier posted that is cost him about $9.00 to reload 50 rounds of .45ACP, I was thinking that it would be less than that but I guess not. I suppose it depends on where you get your materials? The gunshop I frequent does sell reloading supplies but they don't have any books on it so I guess I will talk more with them about it.

I got to thinking last night, my dad has a .357 revolver, 9mm x 18 Makarov, 2 12ga shotguns and a 30.06(along with my .45 and 2- 9x18 Makarovs). It may be in our best interest to learn how to reload as it could save us both alot of money. Hopefully someone will chime in that lives close enough to me that they would be willing to show me how to do it.

As I said earlier, I started firing reloads that I purchase at my local gunshop and they work really well but I did notice that they weren't as accurate as name brand. Why is that? More important than price of ammo would be reliability. I don't want to save a buck only to have ammo I can't rely on. Is there anyway to regulate that? Is it dictated by the materials that you use or something?

Richard

[Guest sling]

It was me that said it cost around 9 bucks. But, as dotsun pointed out, and i forgot to mention, you only really pay for the casings once. After that your price per 50 would go down. *whips out excel sheet* To... 7.50

The products used to calcuate that number are Red Dot for your powder *pretty much one of the cheapest powders available* and Rainier Leadsafes. (pretty much the cheapest bullet you can find)

Though, it always pays off to buy in bulk.

Ammo is going to depend on a whole ton of stuff. Materials, effort, etc. Make sure that the weight of bullet on those reloads is the optimum weight for your gun for starters. Chances are that it is but you never know. The fact that you have a click but no boom could be several things. They may use REALLY hard primers on their rounds... or your springs are gettin worn... or the bullets may not be seated to the correct depth for your gun and there is a head space issue... oh the possibilities!

Failure to fire 2 out of 50 times in my book is unacceptable. Save your money. Take that money and roll your own ammo. Inspect every case, check the powder charge to make sure its consistant, and seat your bullets to the correct depth.... and try not to touch the primers with your hands. :-P If you have really acidic skin it can deaden primers.

You'll really save some green if you load for that .357

Edited April 1, 2008 by sling

[DWARREN123]

My experience has been with pistol rounds only (straight wall cases).

I ordered a Lee Anniversary Kit (single stage) that came with everything but dies and comsumables. Some kits come with one die set.

You will need powder, brass, primers and bullets. You may also want calipers that can measure OAL and case length but you can compare to faactory rounds and check if loaded rounds fit in and work in the chamber and magazine(s).

A good reloading and equipment set up manuals are very good to have.

Most powder companies have on line reloading data sites.

Just check out what comes in different companies kits and note the items included if you do not want to buy a kit. Kits seem to cost less than buying piece by piece.

A tumbler with cleaning media is nice but not needed to reload.

Just about everyone can reload, just pay careful attention to detail. Most mistakes of new and experience reloaders is lack/lapse of attention.

DO NOT BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS!

Edited April 1, 2008 by DWARREN123

[Guest GLOCKGUY]

Best and simplest way is to get one of the Lee "all-in-one" kits, plus a set of dies in whatever caliber you want, plus a good load book like the Lyman 48th edition. Read, check the net for info, best of all, find someone to be your mentor and walk you through the procedures. Also a good starter book is "The ABC's of Reloading" edited by Bill Chevalier.

this is the kit I'm looking at to. is there anyone in or around chattanooga that can show i guy how to reload

[Guest rj8806]

Once again, you guys are awesome...thanks for the replies.

More questions though.... How many times can you re-use your brass? I've actually started collecting the brass I shoot, initially, I was collecting it to sell it but now that I am considering reloading, I may just save it for that. Can you re-use it indefinitely? How do you clean it after you've collected it? I currently have 2 1/2 5 gallon buckets full of brass that I have sorted out all of the garbage and such. I actually got the idea from my next door neighbor who goes to the ranges and collects it as well. Last year, he collected enough to fill up 13 5 gallon buckets and when he sold it, he had enough money to take his wife on a cruise to Jamaica. Once my wife heard about that, she was all on my case to do the same. The buckets of brass I have so far is all different, not just .45 like I need, so I am now planning on using some of that money to get started.

sling:... The FTF I experienced were issues with the reloads I was shooting. Now that you mention one of the possibilities could have been a really hard primer, I believe that was what the owner of the gunshop said too. I've never had a problem with the "name brand" ammo so I don't think it is a problem with my gun(could be wrong though).

Richard

[Guest sling]

Rifle brass... its going to depend on how hot you load and if you full length size or neck size... and of course the caliber. Maybe 3 -5 times.

Handgun brass will last for a long time...especially if its straight walled and you keep your pressures in check. i have some 9mm cases that have lasted over 20 reloads!

Typically, with rifle brass especially, your going to see a shiny ring form around the head after full length sizing. Take a paper clip and bend it to form a "pick" so to speak. User that tip to try and feel for an "indention" on the inside of the case where that shiny ring is. Thats where the brass is stretching. If its got that indention i typically throw it away to prevent from having case\head seperations.

Hard primers, eh?

Wonder what brand he's using. Maybe wolf? I've seen some hard primers out of that lot.

Edited April 1, 2008 by sling

[Guest Crunchman]

Again, what Sling said!

I'll add that the manufauturer seems to make a difference. I've had my best runs from Remington brass, then Winchester. S&B and Privi don't last too long (maybe 5 to 8 loadings). I don't load mine real hot, just enough to get good accuracy. Most times, hotter is not better. Also, for my bolt guns, I always just neck size after the initial first time firing. In semi-autos, you have to full lentgh size, so that shortens their brass life.

Bottom line, I get 8 to 10 loadings from my rifle brass and 10 to 20 (maybe more) from my straight wall pistol brass.

Hard primers? I've run into those with S&B .45acp and in some Wolf 9mm.

I was lucky in that I had a teacher when I started reloading. Since sling and I can't be where you guys are, just shoot me an email (in my profile) or PM. Or, we'l just keep this thread going.

[Guest sling]

Rem and Win brass is the stuff. Winchester is really malliable. S&B and a lot of NATO brass is really hard and tends to split pretty quick. I dont recall ever paying for .223 or 9mm brass. I usually just pick it up at the range. Most people dont reload and have walmart green box or white box stuff and i eat it up like candy. When they ask what i do with it, i say i reload. They're response is: "You can do that?!" Priceless.

If you buy new brass for a rifle you'll have to initially full length size it. After that, if its for a bolt, just neck size it. The reason being is that that case is now fire formed to your chamber! The brass is now meant for your gun and your gun alone. Pretty neat huh? Doing this will lend you greater accuracy and longer case life. Better accuracy especially when shooting for distance.

If just have to use that places ammo you might pick up some heavier springs made by wolff for your gun. They're not expensive and it'll give you a good insight on the workings of your gun.

[John Wall]

The Rabbi Is kindly going to set up a very informal, free reloading orientation soon in East Nashville. Stay tuned, folks!

[I_Like_Pie]

this is the kit I'm looking at to. is there anyone in or around chattanooga that can show i guy how to reload

If you are in the Chattanooga area much I may be able to help. Have a dedicated reloading room with a single stage and a progressive press. It really is much simpler than you think, but there are some VERY important protocols that you need to follow to avoid double charging and formulating a "proper" load. Drop me a PM or email and we can see if our schedules line up.

However...About the only thing I don't reload is .45. Also...unless you have a custom barrel that doesn't have the funky glocky octagonal rifling...I advise against lead or electro-plated bullets in any Glock pistol.

[Guest Southron Boy]

The Rabbi Is kindly going to set up a very informal, free reloading orientation soon in East Nashville. Stay tuned, folks!

Count me in.

[DWARREN123]

Just keep asking questions and go light and easy with your reloads when starting out. Always double check each step until it becomes second nature.