Best base 1911 for upgrading and improving?

[Guest iScream]

Hey Guys,

If you were going to buy a 1911 with the intention of replacing parts over time to make it more accurate and durable, what base gun would you start with? Let's say I have $850 or so to start with. Should I buy a really nice stripped frame like maybe one of the Les Baer frames from Brownells or maybe some place like STI? Or, should I look for a base gun from some specific manufacturers?

I like the idea of starting with a forged and well machined frame/slide but don't really know where to start.

Is it silly of me to think that I can build a really accurate 1911 from parts I assemble myself?

Any suggestions? I don't care that much how much I end up spending on the gun since a lot of this is about learning more about the platform and working on 1911s.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

-Chris

Edit: Oh, and I'm thinking I might like to build a long slide version.

Edited February 25, 2011 by iScream

[kieefer]

subscribed.

[Garufa]

If you just want a base to learn and experiment with get a Rock Island or American Classic and start adding new parts.

It may seem like putting lipstick on a pig but it is a solid gun with an excellent reputation and there is no point in spending anymore on a base model just to add a bunch of extra stuff to. Especially if new to the game.

[Guest bkelm18]

Well, it is honestly going to cost you a lot more in the long run to upgrade a 1911 than to just buy one with all the features you like. Also, a lot of 1911 parts aren't just "drop in" parts. Many require to be fitted in order to function properly. Actually building a 1911 from the ground up takes a lot of patience and work. If that's something you're up for, more power to you.

[gregintenn]

I just bought the one I wanted to begin with. Once upon a time, an Essex frame was the one to start with. I didn't see the quality in them others claimed.I'm guessing a Para or Springfield would work pretty good, as would a Colt or Kimber. My father made a tack driver out of an Auto Ordinance, but it took a lot of work one shouldn't have to do to a higher quality gun.

[Lumber_Jack]

I think it all depends on your ability to gunsmith. If you are good and can fit the slide and frame, etc, then yes buy a good frame and just build one. But know that the frame and slide are gonna take a lot of work to get fit right. I think you would be good to buy a Springfield mil spec, the switch out the internals, grip safety, MSH, bushing, sights, finish, and have a custom gun at your pace.

[Dolomite_supafly]

I have held and shot a lot of different 1911's. In years past Norinco's were the ones to build because they were decent and were cheap. Now Norinco's cost as much as most Phillipine made guns. With that being said I would recommend a Metro Arms for a budget build. You will never make your money back but the skills learned building it are worth the financial loss. My Metro has a better slide to frame fit than my Colt and shoots better than the Colt as well. The fit and finish were better than the RIA I planned on buying. I bought mine for $475 out the door then added another $200 to get rid of the MIM internals. It didn't need it but because it is my carry gun I wanted to make sure it would be reliable. I have over 1000 trouble free rounds through mine and couldn't be happier with it.

And as was said before almost every part on a 1911 is going to need to be fitted. I have rarely had a part just drop in and in most cases the parts are oversize to ensure a proper fit. Once you have parts fitted it will feel like a much nicer gun and will likely shoot better as well.

Dolomite

[Jonnin]

When I asked a custom builder this, he said to get a basic springfield or colt, that he found both of those to be easier to upgrade.

[graycrait]

The trouble is the pin placement. Some have good pin placement others do not. Having said that I think the Phillipino are good base models that seem blueprinted well enough.

However if you want basic then Caspian is the place to go: Basic Receivers

Foster Industries sometimes have even cheaper frames, Caspian Seconds I believe, but they all require some fitting. I've put together several 1911s from parts and have inherited some build kits that I sold like a KART barrel kit - what a seemingly pain in the butt to fit. The 1911 Project: The Kart of Barrel Fitting

I have a longing eye after the new S&W E series, but my notions are often suspect.

If I were you I would forget putting together a tinker toy 1911, I've been there and done that and it doesn't really get you anywhere other than learning how the 1911 works. In fact I think that the Phillipino 1911s are so good that spending any more only gets you small degrees of improvement. I don't advocate spending 2-4,000.00 on a 1911 that only shoots incrementally better than any Glock I have or my own Franken 1911. So there are really two courses to take. Buy a 450.00 Phillipino 1911 or a 1,000.00 Springfield or S&W E Series. I've had several of the 1,000.00 Springfields but I don't think their cost is worth twice the Phillipino pistol, but they sure do look better. I have this thing about S&W steel handguns and I sure would like one of their new E Series plain jane ones for abotu 850.00. THey seem to be a good compromize which the combat 1911 ultimately is.

If you want to go cheap here is mine and it works - do I carry it, heck NO! I carry what makes sense - a Glock 9mm!

[Guest iScream]

Thanks a bunch to all of you. More to think about than I realized. I kinda had the impression you could mix and match pretty freely like with the AR15 platform. I've installed trigger kits in three different guns now but that's about it for gunsmithing. I do enjoy mechanical stuff and I've built a ton of model airplanes/cars/helicopters which have small precision parts but I don't know how well that translates.

What kind of fitting are we really talking about here though? Is it just deburring and smoothing/polishing kinda stuff or more serious metal work? If pin placement really varies between brands that would seem to be a real problem for attempting mix and match of parts.

-Chris

[Lumber_Jack]

When we say "fitting", most can be done with sand paper and a stone file. Sometimes a more aggressive mill file might be needed, but no high tech machining. Now if you plan to transition from a GI grip safety to a beavertail, that will require some more metal removal and expertise not to jack up the frame.

Go to 1911forum.com and browse the gunsmithing section, you can find out a lot in a hurry.

[Lumber_Jack]

Deleted, double tap

Edited February 25, 2011 by Lumber_Jack

[R1100R]

Another on to look at is the new ATI FX series of .45's. They are made in the Philippines, The models I have seen and the one that I bought were very well

fitted and had a excellent trigger out of the box. I showed mine to two 1911 gunsmiths and they were both impressed.

That being said, I would look at a base model Springfield to build from. My GI .45 is one of my favorites.

[Guest carter]

My first 1911 is a RIA, if i had found the ATI FX titan i would of gotten one of those, both are Philippine, i looked at a stainless ATI at a gun show and was VERY! impressed with the fit and finish, BUT with 850 just for the gun and for you to possibly make that money back if you ever decide to sell it...i would go with a kimber, i don't own one but from what i have seen you would be able to recoup more mony out of a kimber...

My RIA 1911A1 CS (compact)

[finz50]

I was told a while back the best quality entry 1911 that you can upgrade was a Springfield Mil-Spec.....I heeded the advice and haven't regrettet it once. I've since sold it, but it was perfect....good luck.

[Guest spoolie]

I took a Taurus 1911 and rebuilt it a few years ago...

[Guest carter]

YES taurus is a nice gun and my next purchase... PT1911 no rail...

[Guest nicemac]

If you are starting at $850, go with a Kimber. You can easily get one for less than your budget (Guns and Leather last time I was in there). The better the foundation…

[McAllyn]

Here's me with my non-surprising recommendation:

STI Spartan

Under $700 to start, alot of the basics included, and the sky's the limit when you want to upgrade.

Mac

[cptdean]

I had a lot of good luck upgrading my Springfield Armory 5" GI. Next time through, though, I'd like to build a custom 1911 from a quality Fusion Firearms kit. Comes with all the stuff that requires specialized knowledge and/or tools. From there you can just pick your parts and send off for a nice finish job.

[Major Kong]

I had a lot of good luck upgrading my Springfield Armory 5" GI. Next time through, though, I'd like to build a custom 1911 from a quality Fusion Firearms kit. Comes with all the stuff that requires specialized knowledge and/or tools. From there you can just pick your parts and send off for a nice finish job.

+100. A Fusion 10mm kit is on my wish list.

[Guest iScream]

Thanks again to all you guys. I'm going to do some more reading and see what I come up with. Right now I'm leaning toward Springfield Armory though I do like my STI Trojan a lot. The SA Loaded in stainless sure does look good to me even though it costs more than I stated above. I've just read way too many negative things about Kimber to go that direction. No offense to those of you who own them. I did read about the ATIs last night as well. Sounds like a pretty decent way to get started in a 1911.

Are those Fusion kits well regarded?

-Chris

[kieefer]

Wasn't there a Springfield at a really nice price on here....why yes there was....$550.00

[Guest iScream]

Wasn't there a Springfield at a really nice price on here....why yes there was....$550.00

Yep, I was eyeballing that earlier. I think I want stainless though. Still tempting at that price...

-Chris

[Guest carter]

Wasn't there a Springfield at a really nice price on here....why yes there was....$550.00

ummmmm I LIKE IT... kinda want it...