AR15 Rail

[Dolomite_supafly]

Something else that might work better for you is something I did. I installed a DPMS free float tube, they are around $35-$45. After that I found some universal rail sections for $12. I drilled and tapped the tube on the bottom and installed just a bottom rail. It makes for a lightweight setup yet it has a rail and isn't too large in diameter. I also free floats the barrel for added accuracy and even if you have a carbine gass system you can use a rifle length tube if you have a small gas block. Another thing, you can install a rail anywhere you want with a minimal amount of effort by drilling a couple of holes then tapping them.

Dolomite

[DRM]

Something else that might work better for you is something I did. I installed a DPMS free float tube, they are around $35-$45. After that I found some universal rail sections for $12. I drilled and tapped the tube on the bottom and installed just a bottom rail. It makes for a lightweight setup yet it has a rail and isn't too large in diameter. I also free floats the barrel for added accuracy and even if you have a carbine gass system you can use a rifle length tube if you have a small gas block. Another thing, you can install a rail anywhere you want with a minimal amount of effort by drilling a couple of holes then tapping them.

Dolomite

Sounds like what I am looking for... I don't see them on DPMS's website?

[JoeBobOutfitters]

I wouldn't drill and tap a free float tube and assume it'll always be sturdy to mount a bipod, etc. I would apply a nut, if at all possible. Those free float tubes are NOT very thick, and I'd at least want 3 bolts if possible on the free float tube to ensure the load is spread out a bit.

In terms of rails, I doubt you'll do anything to "break" a cheaper rail, regardless if it's a Leapers or UTG. If you can find a rail you like with a price you like, most likely, you won't get hurt. You may not get the strongest, lightest, or best designed rail, but it should do the job. I have a carbine 2-piece UTG hand-guard I traded for a while back and it seems to be decent quality. I couldn't find anything that stood out that screamed to me "stay away" by any means.

[strickj]

I have a UTG rail and am pleased with it. It does exactly what I need it to do. That's to hold a VFG, occasionally hold a bipod, and to look bad-ass to impress my friends.

Of coarse, I'm no operator so my opinion about them may not be worth much

[mikegideon]

I have a UTG rail and am pleased with it. It does exactly what I need it to do. That's to hold a VFG, occasionally hold a bipod, and to look bad-ass to impress my friends.

Of coarse, I'm no operator so my opinion about them may not be worth much

Anybody using the pig is much more than an operator. Besides, the Infidel lower keeps you in the top 1%, even if you had a plastic handguard

[Dolomite_supafly]

Sounds like what I am looking for... I don't see them on DPMS's website?

Here is a Model 1 Sales:

Model 1 Free Float Tube Handguard Fluted AR-15 Rifle Length Aluminum Black - MidwayUSA

Here is the DPMS:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5585/avs%7CManufacturer_1=DPMS%20FIREARMS%20LLC/Product/AR_15_M16_FREE_FLOAT_TUBE

I get discounts so that is the reason I get them for $35-$45. I have used both and have drilled and tapped both for rails or bipods without issue. I really don;t ahve a preference as they both seem well built. Both are two piece designs.

As far as drilling and tapping, they are thick enough to easily get the width of the screw thickness worth of support which is plenty. Adding a nut wouldn't hurt as Joe Bob mentioned but the problem with adding a nut is getting to and tightening the ones in the middle of the tube. A rifle length tube means you are about 6" from the end to get into the middle. Then there is the barrel clearance inside the tube itself, I install the rails last because every time you tighten a tube down it is going to tighten a little more than before so what might be perfectly on the bottom one time might clock a little more the next leaving the rail not exactly on the bottom. Assuming you could get a wrench on it you wouldn't have very much room to turn that wrench either. I have not had any issues with mine being without a nut. I add 2-3 10-32 screws to the rail depending on length and locktite them well. The biggest reason they strip is they are not snug, a snug screw or bolt is less likely to work loose and then strip out. 10-32 is the same thread pitch as most machine screw sling swivel studs so if you remove the rail you can put a sling slivel back on to fill the hole and attach a bipod. I use a chaulk line to ensure the rail holes are straight and perfectly centered on the bottom. I run it from the muzzle to the center of the magwell and they come out great.

The UTG rails aren't that heavy, it is probably more about what you hang off of your gun. They are heavier than some but some higher end ones are way heavier. They are definitely heavier than standard handguards but very few rails aren't. Again, I say go for the UTG rail if you must have a cheap quad rail. Or install a float tube them install a rail.

Dolomite

[Guest tenn]

To my surprise the UTG Carbine rails are made in the US:

Manufacturer: Leapers UTG MTU-001

Item: ARR-238

Made in the US. Four-sided, mil-spec picatinny railed handguard allows for a huge array of accessories and is precision machined for maximum strength.

Two piece design replaces your original plastic handguards and locks in place for a secure fit. Installs easily without gunsmithing or modification to the barrel.

Includes black rubber rail guards for comfort and protection.

Hard anodized aluminum construction for superior wear resistance. Four rails with 14 slots per rail.

Fits carbine length M4 and AR-15 style rifles. BLACK.

Yes, those US one's came out just recently. The cheap ones that most people have on their AR's and AK's are the airsoft rails made in China. Not picatinny standard rails either. They are close, but not exactly the same size.