1st timer slide refinishing questions (metal prep, finish options)

[zooperman85]

Hey guys, got a few questions. I want to refinish the slide on my usp 45 compact but wondering exactly how to do so and what to use. It will be re-done matte black as its taken alot of holster wear. I've done alot of reading about the metal prep and everyone talks about using your sand blast tank... well sorry, I'm apparently the only american that does not have my own sand blast tank in my garage, so its not an option for me to rough the surface in prep. So anywho, I've seen some youtube videos about using 600 grit sandpaper very lightly just to rough it up so the finish adheres to it properly with great results.

Next, is what finish to use... It has to be something I can do here at home (TCE or tru strip spray to degrease, & sand paper for prep that will suffice) Cure time is not an issue nor an oven. Read alot that says Cerakote is the cats meow to use but can often be finicky. Duracoat and Durabake are cheap options. Also, brownells finishes like Gunkote or Aluma hyde II?

Anyone here have an experience with any of these options or refinishing problems that you ran into? Is it even worth it to try here at home or should I just find someone around locally that can do it? I'm assuming im gonna pay about $50 to $80 if I pay someone who does it perfectly? Any advice on this matter would be a huge help. Any reccomendations to a local gunsmith (gallatin, lebanon, hendersonville, greenbrier) with quick turn around time cheap prices on what im wanting would be greatly appreciated too! Thanks a bunch everyone!

[Guest NashvegasMatt]

let me just tell you that this is a long process even for someone who has mechanical and creative inclinations. I got into the re-bluing/blacking process once... and only once. For the $50 bucks, you might just want to send it somewhere to get plated. the materials alone are gonna cost you more than you think. It is finiky, because most of the "spray on" adhesives have to be done in one shot. Meaning you cant do one side, stop, flip it over and do the other when it's dry. Personally if it were me to do this again, I would buy some aluminum and the materials to do this and practice first on a random piece of metal.... not the gun. If you choose to do it with no practice, you most likely will end up like me with a mirror finished gun, because its easier.

[Dolomite_supafly]

I would use Gunkote in an aerosol can. Prep is everything with Gunkote. I have used it dozens of times and has turned out great. The wear is good as well as one gun I did was carried everyday for about 6 months without any signs of problems.

If you have a compressor, even a small one, you can buy small hand held media blasters for less than $15 at Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. If not most automotive shops have blast cabinets and would probably let you use it for either a small fee or free if they think what you are doing is interesting. If all else fails then, as you said, you can use sand paper to roughen the surface.

Use gloves and safety glasses for everything. To keep your skin oils off the parts and to keep potentially harmful stuff off of you and out of your eyes.

Here is what I do:

Disassemble the parts to be coated as completely as you can

Clean and degrease all the parts the best you can using non-chorinated brake cleaner

Media blast or sand all the parts to be coated (I used medium aluminum oxide from Northern Tool)

Bring a pot of 1/2 gallon distilled water and 1/2 gallon Simple Green to near boil

As the bubbles start to form remove from heat, letting it sit for a minute or so to allow the temp to equalize

Place the parts to be coated in the Simple Green solution and let it sit for about 15 minutes

***Do not breath the steam***

Stir the parts occasionally to help break any oils loose

At the same time start boiling some distilled water and turn your oven on its lowest setting

When it starts to boil remove from heat, letting it sit for a minute or so to allow the temp to equalize

Remove the parts from the Simple Green solution and place in the distilled water for another 15 minutes

***Do not breath the steam***

Remove the parts from the water and place them in the oven long enough for all the water to evaporate

Remove the parts

one

at a time, not all at the same time, and coat them according to the instructions

**If you remove them all at the same time and the first ones will be warmer than the last ones causing them to look different**

Make sure you spray outside though because it is some pretty nasty stuff, both smelling and bad for you.

After all parts are coated with Gunkote place them back in the oven at the recommended temp for the recommended time. I normally put the parts in then set the temp to the 300 degree temp it requires. Once it gets to temp I time off an hour then turn off the oven and let the parts cool slowly in the oven over the course of a few hours.

Because the finish is already dry when you begin the baking process it doesn't emit any nasty smells in the oven.

This is the down and dirty way I have done it for the last few years and works great. I have only done handguns and small parts but I have went thru at least 4 cans of Gunkote so far. If you have any quesitons feel free to ask.

Dolomite

[zooperman85]

hey thanks for those 2 great responses! It's gonna come down to a coin toss I think haha. I will definately practice on other metal first before I go spray happy on my slide lol. Other side of the coin, Im gonna call around here in a minute and get some prices for someone to finish it for me. Thanks much for the advice guys

[Karnage]

Before you do it yourself you might want to check out CCR-REFINISHING They are a small family owned business in Greeneville, TN.

They are advertising a sale for the refinishing of Glock slides and HK USP slides right now on Glock Talk. WTS: CCR Glock Plating Special Price 2 week turnaround - Glock Talk

They are offering Cera Plate for $79 or Cera Hide for $59 with a two week turn around. (post 24 is where they quote the price of Cera Hide and post 64 is where they expand the sale to USP slides)

They have done work for me and they do an excellent job. I have done a couple of pistols and shotguns myself. The prices that I have paid CCR to do refinishing are definitely worth it.

[Guest KCC]

It will cost you more to do it yourself, than to have someone who specializes in this, do it for you.

I do this for a living, and can tell you that if you don't properly apply the cerakote, you're waiting time and money.

The duracoat etc is more of a DIY application.

[DRM]

I disagree - doing something yourself is not a waste... you are adding to your skills and knowledge base

Give it a shot... it's only money, right? At the end of it all - you'll have some new skills and the pride in your work.

[Guest Killbot]

Cerakote is super tricky I worked at oakridge custom finishing in warner robins ga for 6 months doing duracoat and cerakotes. Tif you dont get every little bit of oil off that metal the cerakote will peel right up. also if your going to use duracoat your going to want to parkerize it first.