Ruger Security Six - General Questions

[Guest gw2and4]

Let me start by saying I "grew up" on semi-auto pistols and don't have near the same level of knowledge about revolvers as I do modern plastic TupperGuns like Glocks. My first pistol was a Glock 23 when I got my permit in 1995--which I still carry to this day. So I'm opening this question up to the Ruger experts who can help here on the forum.

In the case of an early 70's Security Six .357 that rarely gets shot, maybe 100 rounds in the past few years spread across a few range trips--is there anything to know about this gun in terms of operation, safety, etc? Looks like it has a firing pin blocking bar that drops out of the way when you pull the trigger double action or cock the hammer for single action firing. Hammer has a flat surface instead of the old Smiths I've seen with the firing pin right on the hammer. Is dry firing ok at all in small amounts? Or not at all?

Just wondering the general story of this one since it looks so cool and shoots very well the couple times I've gotten to shoot it... Anything you Ruger peeps can add would be appreciated very much.

Thinking about shooing it at the upcoming TGO Intro Match at MCTS that you can read about here.

http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/competitive-shooting-sports/51693-mcts-intro-competitive-shooting-tennessee-gun-owners-meet-greet.html

Thanks in advance for the help.

[I_Like_Pie]

It is the precursor to the GP 100. The only real difference being that it uses a traditional grip as opposed to the post system of the GP and SP guns.

Ruger ran a trio of guns known as the Service Six, the Speed Six, and the Security Six in the 70's. Difference being sights, grip shape, and barrel length. Ruger still uses the same design today, but scaled up one size, in the Redhawk. That being said....there really isn't a more robust gun made than the one you have.

The blocking bar that you see is the transfer bar present in all current, post 1974 Ruger revolvers. It works very well in keeping a hit to the back of the hammer from setting off a cartridge...let's say it was dropped and landed on the hammer. The hammer is unlike old S&W guns in that it hits a firing pin in the frame of the gun that ignites the primer.

Someone here (as there are all types) may say differently, but you can dry fire away until your hands wear out and it will never, ever hurt that gun. This is in the manual if you don't believe me. Have actually had discussions with the people who designed that very gun that say the same.

Keep it lubed lightly. If it works well then there is no real reason to take it apart. A K-Frame holster will fit it. Other than that - It is what it is - a great little gun. They don't make them any more because it was replaced in the 80's with the SP and GP series guns. Also the shift in the early 80's from revolvers to wonder 9mm guns dried up the demand.

[Guest Ae-35]

What he said, great gun, I got one new in 1977, put over 10k. throught it, at least 4k heavy 357's !!! Would out shoot Smith's 19's and 66's, and Colt's Tropper. I gave that old 4in. SS gun to my uncle in 04. His son now has it and it still will shoot great groups !!!

[Guest gw2and4]

It is the precursor to the GP 100. The only real difference being that it uses a traditional grip as opposed to the post system of the GP and SP guns.

Ruger ran a trio of guns known as the Service Six, the Speed Six, and the Security Six in the 70's. Difference being sights, grip shape, and barrel length. Ruger still uses the same design today, but scaled up one size, in the Redhawk. That being said....there really isn't a more robust gun made than the one you have.

The blocking bar that you see is the transfer bar present in all current, post 1974 Ruger revolvers. It works very well in keeping a hit to the back of the hammer from setting off a cartridge...let's say it was dropped and landed on the hammer. The hammer is unlike old S&W guns in that it hits a firing pin in the frame of the gun that ignites the primer.

Someone here (as there are all types) may say differently, but you can dry fire away until your hands wear out and it will never, ever hurt that gun. This is in the manual if you don't believe me. Have actually had discussions with the people who designed that very gun that say the same.

Keep it lubed lightly. If it works well then there is no real reason to take it apart. A K-Frame holster will fit it. Other than that - It is what it is - a great little gun. They don't make them any more because it was replaced in the 80's with the SP and GP series guns. Also the shift in the early 80's from revolvers to wonder 9mm guns dried up the demand.

What he said, great gun, I got one new in 1977, put over 10k. throught it, at least 4k heavy 357's !!! Would out shoot Smith's 19's and 66's, and Colt's Tropper. I gave that old 4in. SS gun to my uncle in 04. His son now has it and it still will shoot great groups !!!

Thank you both very much for the great info. Now all I need is a speed loader that'll fit it and I can run it at IDPA if my friend will let me borrow it long enough...

[gl19gobang]

buy it! I got one in 1981 and still have it. You will hear nothing but good about a ruger security six. I read that one gun range had one for a rental and logged 1,400,000 rounds without any repair to the gun. I found that info more than once on the internet. Just google ruger security six and see what you find.

[Currently]

The security 6 was the first handgun I ever purchased in the mid 70's. I still have it.

I have put well over 25k rounds through it. Most of those rounds were .38 special reloads with semiwadcutters.

It looks like hell because I sold it to my brother and he neglected it and I purchased it back 5 years later covered with rust spots.

It is an incredible and reliable revolver. Not glamorous like a colt python, but a solid performer that will go bang every time for a lifetime.

[lowery100]

They are great guns. I had a 2in. Speed Six and sold it several years ago. I have been trying to find another for about 3 years with no luck.

[Guest gw2and4]

Found an HKS speed loader for it tonight on the way home from work. Now I have to practice my reloads...

Sent from my iPhone 4

[DavidD]

Since ILP seems to be extremely knowledgeable on this firearm, I'd like to piggy back this thread....

I Have a friend who uses one and the question has come up "Will the Security Six take +P ammo?". He was told not to use it however my thoughts were it'd be fine for a self defense scenario. Your thoughts?

[I_Like_Pie]

Since ILP seems to be extremely knowledgeable on this firearm, I'd like to piggy back this thread....

I Have a friend who uses one and the question has come up "Will the Security Six take +P ammo?". He was told not to use it however my thoughts were it'd be fine for a self defense scenario. Your thoughts?

38 +P ammo runs about 19,000 PSI

357 Magnum runs about 35,000PSI

Most Security Six guns (99% of them) are .357 Magnum. A small amount were actually chambered in .38 special. They are actually the same gun with different chamber cuts. Your friend can shoot .38 Special +P all day long with no problem whatsoever.

however...Since 38 special is shorter it will eventually deposit a carbon ring 0.125 shorter than regular .357 cartridges in the cylinder of the gun....as will all 38 specials in a .357 magnum. This will cause any subsequent loading of magnums to be more difficult to load in the gun, and can actually cause the cylinder to bind if the carbon is not properly cleaned out. Just as a FYI.

If they are referring to some custom hot .357 magnum handloads that are being labeled as +P....Do NOT trust them at all. SAMMI does not regulate such a thing.

.38 Special +p are very fun to shoot out of a heavier mid-frame gun like this. If you are to shoot a lot....it is far easier to hit what you are aiming at without developing a flinch. Despite people's fascination with big bore "macho" guns like the .454 .500 etc....the .357 is still a very powerful cartridge and surprises many people who are used to 9mm, 45acp, and similar chamberings..

[Edit to add] There were also some made in 9mm believe it or not.....If in the rare case they have one of them....I really wouldn't recommended any shooting of 9mm +p from one despite the fact you are still likely below the limits....simply don't have the same comfort level as do in 38.

Edited January 29, 2011 by I_Like_Pie

[Currently]

+1

Shooting .38 Special is a lot of fun.

To give you an idea how accurate I got with this revolver, I got really bored shooting targets with it.

We used to shoot in gravel pits and we would stand up all the spent shotgun shells we could find.

We would then walk and snap shoot the shells. It was easy to distinguish a miss from a hit.

A miss would skitter the shell on the ground and a hit would make the shell "disappear" to the shooter.

It would fly 30+ feet in the air. It was a great instinctive shooting exercise.

As for safety backdrops, these gravel pits were located in the middle of nowheres and typically had 50+ foot walls. Only rule was to not shoot glass bottles for obvious reasons.

Edited January 29, 2011 by Currently

[Guest gw2and4]

So is it supposed to take 4 or 5 full seconds to reload a revolver with a speed loader? After a couple days of practice, I'm consistently under 6 seconds. I'm not really happy with that, but my point of reference is Jerry Miculek...which isn't realistic since this is day two. So what's reasonable for "normal" IDPA shooters?

[Guest AlzRuger]

I have a 357 SS Speed Six 2 in. Great gun.

Would buy another one if I could find one as

nice as the one I have. You will love the Six

the more you shoot it.

[Guest REDDOG79]

I have my dad's Ruger Security Six in Stainless and it was made in 1976. It is the Bicentennial Version. He put oversized grips on it and it is a dream to shoot. I like Smiths and Colts but this one will be passed down to my son when he is ready.

[glockster157]

The security six was a great gun. The big difference between the Security Six/Redhawk is the spring system. In the Security Six/Redhawk series the main spring works both the hammer and the trigger return. To lighten the DA trigger pull by reducing the main spring tension also lightens the hammer strike. On the GP100/Super Redhawk series, there is a main spring and a trigger return spring. You can put a spring kit in a GP100/Super Redhawk and get a better trigger without having to lighten the main spring too much. As to strength, all these Rugers are super strong. I love my 5.5" Redhawk.