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Values on WWII Guns


mfg02

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Can someone point me in a direction to place a value on some of my guns I got from my grandpa. Just looking for some general information or a point in the right direction.

1

MANUFACTURER

COLT

MODEL

POLICE POSITIVE - 38 SPECIAL

S/N

TYPE

REVOLVER

CALIBER

38 SPECIAL

MAG CAPACITY

6

NO. MAGS

N/A

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

COLT'S PT.F.A MFG CO. HARTFORD, CT, USA

PAT'D AUG. 5, 1844 JUNE 5, 1900 JULY 4, 1905

2

MANUFACTURER

SMITH & WESSSON

MODEL

38 S.&W. SPECIAL CTG

S/N

72132

TYPE

REVOLVER

CALIBER

38 SPECIAL

MAG CAPACITY

6

NO. MAGS

N/A

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

3

MANUFACTURER

WALTHER

MODEL

P-38

S/N

02606

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO (DA/SA)

CALIBER

9 MM

MAG CAPACITY

8

NO. MAGS

2

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

4

MANUFACTURER

STEYR

MODEL

1914

S/N

6614f

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO (TOPLOADER)

CALIBER

9 MM STEYR

MAG CAPACITY

?

NO. MAGS

3 STRIPPER BARS

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

5

MANUFACTURER

LUGER

MODEL

P.08

S/N

7695

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO

CALIBER

9 MM

MAG CAPACITY

8

NO. MAGS

2

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

41 byf

6

MANUFACTURER

MAUSER

MODEL

WTP1

S/N

33690

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO

CALIBER

.25

MAG CAPACITY

6

NO. MAGS

1

HOLSTER

NO

MARKINGS

MODEL WTP1 W.T.P. - 6.35 - D.R.P. U.A.P.

WAFFENFABRIK MAUSER A. - G.

7

MANUFACTURER

BERETTA

MODEL

M1935

S/N

570696

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO

CALIBER

.32 ACP

MAG CAPACITY

7

NO. MAGS

2

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

P'BERETTA - CAL 7.65 - BREVETTA TA

CARDONE V.T. 1944

8

MANUFACTURER

FABRIQUE NATIONAL

MODEL

BROWING HI - POWER (aka p-35 or 640b)

S/N

176806

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO (S/A)

CALIBER

9 MM

MAG CAPACITY

13

NO. MAGS

1

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

FABRIQUE NATIONAL D'ARMES DE GUERRE

HERSTAL BELGIQUE

BROWING PATENT DEPOSE-NAZI Stamp

9

MANUFACTURER

KEL-TEC

MODEL

P-32

S/N

TYPE

SEMI-AUTO

CALIBER

.32 ACP

MAG CAPACITY

7

NO. MAGS

3 (TWO 7 & ONE 15)

HOLSTER

YES

MARKINGS

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Are they rusty? Parts broken or missing? Are they new in the box? This is kind of like asking: I have a red truck...what's it worth? Buy a copy of Fjestad's Blue Book of Gun Values. It'll help a lot. You can alos look at completed auctions on sites such as gunbroker.com.

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i have shot them all, all of the function and are original with no rust. i would say at the worse they are 95%. i am just looking for somewhere to start, websites, books, etc. i know they're only worth what someone will pay you but I'm trying to get a general idea on the easiest way to locate some of the values and more information.

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The Luger, P-38, and Browning Hi-Power prices can vary a huge amount based on tiny details. To give you an idea, the low end on those three would be $600, $350, and $400. The high end based on what few details you have above could be as high as $4000, $2500, and $2500. chances are you will be a lot closer to the lower end, but why lose out if you do have a rare variation? The Blue Book is a great starting point. At the worst, it will be cheap insurance against getting ripped off.

You have two choices; do your own homework and figure out a fair price for each of those items, or, just take them to the next gun show and get a few quotes from dealers. If you are trying to sell them, you will get more money by going with the first option. If you just want an insurance appraisal, there are dealers who can give you a certified appraisal for a fee.

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To echo what 1gewehr said, they really should be appraised by a competant gunsmith/dealer. There are lots a little things that will make huge differences in money on a WW2 gun, and if they look like they're in 95%+ condition I'd personally suspect refinishing - whether arsenal done or by some previous owner. Both of those will drastically reduce the price on most guns over an original.

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Be prepared to spend some time on each gun, if you do not spend money to get a quality appraisal. Last year I spent some time doing this (ID firearms to determine value) and even with a blue book, sometimes its hard to tell which gun you have when there are 1500 variations of the same gun based off if it has round or square screws in the underside of the whatsit or walnut instead of rosewood grips or some other minor detail. Some of the harder guns took me (as a noob to doing this sort of thing) upwards of 2 weeks of research before I was convinced which model I had.

A combination of a trusted dealer, a blue book, and auctions of similar items will get you a long way into the process. From there, if you think your gun is rare or superior or high-dollar, its worth the money to get an expert to tell you for sure. If you plan to sell them, you want to do everything you can to be sure of what you have.

As a side note, in my research I would "contact the seller" of some of these guns to see if they had insight into that model. Most of them were willing to toss me an email back as to how they came about their price and value, and what marks etc. to look for based on their own research. Most gun folks are pretty friendly, if you ask nicely =).

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