new to loading 40s&w questions

[Guest sneakboxer]

Being new to reloading and only loading 308 and 357mag rifle rounds what should i be concerned with when developing a load for a 40cal semi-auto pistol?

I will be shooting paper only with a Sig 229. Santa left a 4piece lee carbide die set under the tree and itching to get some components and get after it.

I'm thinking i should load as light as possible and only bump up the load to ensure proper cycling of my pistol. Maybe 5 rounds at a time and go from there?

Are cheap plated bullets loaded as if they were plain lead?

What is a good powder to use? I would like to use AA#9 or AA#7 because i use it with my 357 loads. But i would be open to other recommendations.

Are there any other concerns that i'm missing when dealing with using a semi?

Anyone have some 40cal recipes that they would like to recommend?

Thanks in advance,

[kb4ns]

I'm thinking i should load as light as possible and only bump up the load to ensure proper cycling of my pistol. Maybe 5 rounds at a time and go from there?

Yes. When developing a new load, I make batches of 10 rounds of each load, starting with the manuals' listed minimum load, moving up incrementally a couple tenths of a grain per batch. Since I just plink with my reloads, I just stick with the smallest load that cycles my gun and performs properly.

Are cheap plated bullets loaded as if they were plain lead?

I love using plated bullets like Berrys. They're usually loaded somewhere between lead and FMJ. I usually start at about midway between the min and max listed recipe for the same size/weight bullet in lead and work up from there (if necessary).

Are there any other concerns that i'm missing when dealing with using a semi?

Just your standard pressure issues. Nothing else comes to mind for me. Of course, I've always reloaded for semis, so I very well could be missing something.

Just be safe and have fun!

[LeadWaster]

+1 for Berry's plated bullets. I'm loading them in 9mm and .380. They have a 100gr RN that works great in both calibers for me. I'm using Win 231 in both and it burns nice and clean. You don't want to load them as hot as FMJ, but like kb4ns said, somewhere between lead and FMJ.

One thing you may want to do is back off your crimp die a bit as the Berry's are about 0.001" larger in diameter than a similar FMJ. Taper crimps are by far the prefered method of crimping. A heavy taper crimp or a more aggressive rolled crimp can cut the plating and leave part of it your barrel. I take a pair of dial calipers to the range with me when developing a load. I'll shoot all but the last round in the mag, pull it out and measure it just to assure it hasn't "grown" any from the bullet backing out. If you have no movement, your crimp is fine. Doesn't take much crimp for plinking loads.

[Backon4]

I've used berry's and ranier but for the price you can get zero FMJ or JHP for about the same price. I use titegroup for powder and load them on the lighter side. Be careful not to seat them too deep as it increases the pressure and can cause a kaboom. We use 180 gr bullets too so you can use the least amount of powder.

[Grunt67]

I have a XDm 40 , full size. Currently using Hornady XTP 155 gr. for target shooting. Using Hogdon HS-6, 7.8 grs. Works fine in this particular

gun. Different gun, different recoil spring, different matter.

Have also worked up to 8.0 grs. without a gun problem. Just wanted to keep it on the low side for targets.

Follow the reloading manual for the bullet you use, start low, work up to where it functions best for you.

Good luck, be safe.

[I_Like_Pie]

Actually when loading .40 there are a couple of things that you want to watch.

First is that it is a relatively high pressure cartridge. You want to make sure your OAL is good and that the crimp is relatively tight. If the bullet sets back it very drastically reduces case capacity and shoots pressure though the roof. Not something that you really want to deal with. I suggest a taper crimp 4th die as it confirms that those bullets are held tight.

Second. I would suggest using the plated bullets mentioned above. They fit into the expanded brass without shaving or the possibility of lead/lube causing falure to feed....since these rest in the chamber on the case mouth

Third. Be leery of range pick ups in less than perfect shape or if you didn't see the person shoot them. They may be on their 5th reload from a partially supported chamber. You would rather have them split from the top....not the bottom.

Last...use a mid-range powder like HS-6. I believe that this is THE powder for .40s&w as it meters well and offers the best range min to max for the caliber. Bullseye and the like are too fast and amplify the pressure spike found in my first point.

Other than that it is business as usual.

[DWARREN123]

Follow data from manual or web site, load at medium levels first then slowly build from there.

I use a Lee Anniversary Kit and Lee 3 piece die set. I have had no problems with my reloads and reload jacketed, plated and lead for my Glocks.

I like Longshot powder for the usually lower chamber pressures and higher FPS. I use either R-P or Winchester brass, works good for me.

Inspect brass often and trash any you question.

I try to keep my components the same for less variation.

One of my favorite loads is a hardcast lead SWC 175gr bullet over 7.0gr of Longshot in the 40 S&W.

Follow your manual or web site load data and watch about picking load info up on the web.

[SpacemanSpiff]

I've used AA#5 and AA#7 for my .40 loads, but primarily use TiteGroup now. I have not tried AA#9 since, I believe, it is best in magnums. I have used it in .357 mag and liked it.

I used 155 gr Flat Point from Rainier with the AA#7. My first trial charges with the 155 gr FP were 9.5 gr, 9.8 gr, and 10.1 gr. The range that I found in my manuals is 9.3 gr to 10.3 gr. I, too, have a Sig P229. The 9.5 gr gave me one feed jam out of 5. The 9.8 gr worked well. The 10.1 gr was a little hot. The 9.8 gr is what I load when using the AA#7 with the 155 gr FP or 165 gr FP. I have my bullet seated for an overall length of 1.120.

Typically now, I use a 180 gr FP from Berry using TiteGroup. I find that AA#7 is a little bit "hotter" of a powder than TiteGroup.

Run trial loads, check your manuals for proper charges.